Monthly Archive for May, 2007

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Cottonwood Grille – Boise

Published by Gastronomer on May 15, 2007 in Boise, New American and Restaurant Review. 0 Comments

May 10, 2007
Cuisine: New American

913 W River St Ste 913
Boise, ID 83702

Phone: 208-333-9800
Website: www.cottonwoodgrille.com/

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Bread and butter (complimentary)

Appetizer: Mixed Greens with Cottonwood Grille Vinaigrette

Entree: Salmon in a Cage – Fresh farm raised salmon filet wrapped in crispy Idaho potato and finished with a lemon beurre blanc ($17.95)

Dessert I: Crème Brûlée – Creamy fresh vanilla bean custard with a thin caramelized sugar crust ($6.95)

Dessert II: Raspberry Brûlée – Ripe raspberries mixed in a creamy fresh vanilla bean custard, topped with a thin caramelized sugar crust ($7.95)

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Just three days in Boise and I’m totally infatuated with the place. It turns out I’m a sucker for cities with great running terrain, dry heat, and friendly people.

For my final meal in The City of Trees, my colleagues and I dined at The Cottonwood Grille—a local restaurant serving up “Contemporary Northwest Cuisine.” The bill of fare includes pastas, vegetarian options, prime beef, chicken, pork, and fish, but due to our large group (30+), we were limited to a smaller menu.

For appetizers, we had a choice between a Caesar salad and mixed greens; I went with the mixed greens. The salad was composed mainly of Romain lettuce with a few spinach leaves, julienned carrots, cucumbers, and tomatoes. The vegetables were fresh and the vinaigrette achieved a perfect balance of acidity and oily, which is more difficult than it sounds.

Our main course choices were steak, seafood linguine, salmon, chicken, and a vegetarian stir fry with tofu and seitan. After many days on the road, palate fatigue set in and none of the options sounded particularly appetizing. I was initially leaning toward the stir fry because faux meats are fabulous, but was suspicious of the singular Asian-esque dish in a sea of American fare. What is most bothersome about Cottonwood’s menu is their lack of mentioning side dishes. Oftentimes when I’m deciding between different entrees, I take accompaniments into account. I eventually settled on the salmon after much internal debate.

The salmon was better than I expected due to the buttery hash browns seared into its flesh. The tastiest bites included potatoes and lemon beurre blanc, while the bites of plain fish were bland. The salmon was served with green beans, rice pilaf, and butternut squash. The green beans were sauteed in garlic and shallots and were delicious. The rice was unadorned and good. My favorite side dish was the cinnamon-y butternut squash; its sweetness contrasted well with the other elements on my plate.

For dessert, we had a choice between raspberry brûlée and hazelnut cheesecake. I ordered the raspberry brûlée, but was brought a regular brûlée by mistake. I did not realize the error until I could not find any raspberries in my dessert. The regular crème brûlée was excellent. The sugary crust was evenly golden and the crème was luxuriously smooth and contained tiny flecks of vanilla bean. The raspberry brûlée was stellar as well. Wonderfully ripe raspberries were placed into the custard post-baking, but pre-torching. The berries paired amazingly with the crème brûlée.

The Milky Way – Boise

Published by Gastronomer on May 10, 2007 in Boise, New American and Restaurant Review. 0 Comments

May 8, 2007
Cuisine: American

205 N 10th St # 101 *CLOSED*
Boise, ID 83702

Phone: 208-343-4334
Website: www.milkywayboise.com/

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Squaw bread with butter (complimentary)

Entree I: Grilled Black Forest Ham and Swiss Cheese with Dijon mayo on whole wheat bread served with House Salad – tomatoes and cucumbers tossed in a Sherry vinaigrette ($7.25)

Dessert: Lemongrass Cardomom Crème Brûlée ($5)

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Conjuring up Idaho in my head, I pictured an agricultural landscape with countless miles of potato fields and farmers tending to their crops in denim overalls and straw hats. Imagining the food scene in this unfamiliar state, I saw myself eating spuds at every meal prepared in a plethora of ways—au gratin, mashed, fried, baked, stuffed, and scalloped.

Although Idaho and potatoes will always be synonymous with one another in my mind, the offerings in Boise are much more interesting than I anticipated. Downtown Boise contains a fair number of chains, but also boasts Thai restaurants, a few sushi joints, and even a handful of Basque eateries. I haven’t been able to sample much of the fare due to work, but am thoroughly impressed by the variety and quality of eats available in this town. Maybe we are the United States of Arugula after all.

I read rave reviews about The Milky Way prior to arriving in Boise and headed there for a casual lunch on my first day in the city. With temperatures in the mid-80′s, I could not resist dining alfresco on their front patio. The menu consists mostly of classic American comfort foods like meatloaf and macaroni and cheese with a few twists thrown in such as braised beef cheeks and shrimp and scallop potstickers. In an uncharacteristically unadventurous mood, I chose the Grilled Black Forest Ham and Swiss Cheese sandwich.

I was brought a small loaf of squaw bread to munch on while waiting for my entree. The bread was freshly baked, subtly sweet, and tasted like a cross between rye and whole wheat. I liked it quite a bit. My sandwich arrived not too long after.

The sandwich and side salad were both simple and delicious. The whole wheat bread had a tinge of sour and was toasty without being greasy. The cheese and ham were good, but nothing out of the ordinary. The Dijon mustard added some zing; I’ll have to start adding mustard to my homemade grilled sandwiches. The salad was fresh and evenly dressed.

For dessert, my waitress recommended the Lemongrass Cardomom Crème Brûlée, which sounded fabulous. I find crème brûlée irresistible even though it has become commonplace—there’s just something about tapping through the sugary shell and reaching the creamy custard that gets me every time. There were definite notes of cardomom within the crème, but the lemongrass was unfortunately not strong. The candied sugar crust was beautifully golden and thick. The crème brûlée was satisfying, but I would have enjoyed it more had the custard’s temperature been even and the shell uniformly scorched.

Rouge – Philadelphia

Published by Gastronomer on May 8, 2007 in Burgers, New American, Philadelphia and Restaurant Review. 2 Comments

May 2, 2007
Cuisine: American (New), Bistro

205 S 18th St, Philadelphia 19103
At Walnut St

Phone: 215-732-6622
Website: none

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Roll with butter (complimentary)

Pan Seared Crab Cake – Provençal fish soup, potato rouille, baby fennel, garlic confit ($17)

Rouge Burger – Gruyère caramelized onions and pommes frites ($15)

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With spring definitely in bloom, my friend James and I met up for a leisurely lunch at Rouge. The weather was perfect so we opted to dine alfresco even though it meant waiting a short while. We landed a table close to 18th Street, which fortunately wasn’t too busy this weekday. Exhaust and eats would have been a terrible combination.

In July 2005, Alan Richman of GQ ranked the Rouge Burger #4 on his list of “The 20 Hamburgers You Must Eat Before You Die.” Glancing at the menu, I quickly settled on the famed burger because I love a well-executed burger and I aim to eventually eat all twenty someday! By the way, Rouge’s neighbor Barclay Prime holds the #3 spot on the list with their Kobe Beef Sliders.

After spying a fellow diner’s Rouge Burger, I decided that it was too hefty for one and chose to split it with James. For our second entree, James picked the Pan Seared Crab Cake. As we waited for our food to arrive, we were brought out delicious rolls with pads of butter sprinkled with coarse salt. The afternoon sun softened the butter nicely, which ensured a smooth spread.

The entrees were brought out simultaneously, but I reached for the burger first because it looked so inviting. One bite and I was in beefy heaven. The meat patty was moist, flavorful, and measured over an inch thick at it’s widest (which James found a little challenging). The brioche bun was flaky, sweet, and bravely held on tight to the enormous patty. The cheese and caramelized onions were great too, but overshadowed by the almighty beef. The burger was so satisfying that I skipped on the ketchup, lettuce, and tomato. Our only complaint was the limp pickle spear.

The frites served with the Rouge Burger reminded James in appearance (not taste) of Boardwalk Fries. Every frite from top to bottom in the conical holder was crisp and salted nicely. In this case, ketchup was in order.

I moved on to the Pan Seared Crab Cake after a couple bites of my burger. The crab cake was petite, lightly packed with chunks of crab meat, and seared ever so slightly. James thought the tastiest parts of the crab cake were more aggressively seared. In hindsight, we should have asked for the crab cake to be delivered as an appetizer because the flavors were far too mild to be eaten side by side with the burger. The fish “soup” was lackluster, but next to the Rouge Burger, what isn’t?

Click below for Alan Richman’s complete list: “The 20 Hamburgers You Must Eat Before You Die”

Continue reading ‘Rouge – Philadelphia’

Bonté – Philadelphia

Published by Gastronomer on May 7, 2007 in Belgian, Chain / Multiple Locations, Dessert, Philadelphia and Restaurant Review. 9 Comments

April 29, 2007
Cuisine: Belgian, Desserts & Bakeries, Coffeehouses

922 Walnut St, Philadelphia 19107
Btwn S 9th St & S 10th St

Phone: 215-238-7407
Website: www.bontewaffles.com

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Belgian Sugar Waffles – made fresh, served hot, just like on the streets of Belgium ($2.75)

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Bonté currently boasts three locations in Center City on 17th, 13th, and 9th all along Walnut Street. Perhaps the city should consider changing the street’s name to Waffles Street? Now, that would be rad. Since I live on Waffles Street, I walk by Bonté often and would have tried it sooner if their most convenient location on 13th wasn’t always closed when the mood struck.

On our way to the Italian Market one Sunday afternoon, The Astronomer and I took a snack break at the Bonté on 9th. For our inaugural tasting, we chose the plain waffle. White chocolate, dark chocolate, blueberries, bananas, strawberries, and pecans are available mix-in options for an additional sum.

Approximately five minutes after placing our order, a piping hot waffle was brought to our table. It smelled delicious, but the charred spots were somewhat off-putting. One bite and it was obvious that the “authentic” Belgian waffles made at Bonté have little in common with the Belgian waffles we’re accustomed to.

First off, Bonté’s waffles are made from a dough rather than a batter. I peaked behind the counter and saw the waffle artist pressing pre-made dough onto the hot iron, which explains its density and irregular shape. Whereas regular waffles are consumed with maple syrup, Bonté’s have sugar crystals within the dough providing plenty of sweetness and a great crunch. In terms of texture, Bonté’s waffles are stiffer and denser than their fluffy, batter-made counterparts. The interior of Bonté’s waffles is wonderfully flaky.

The waffles cooked up at Bonté are special and delectable. With three ridiculously convenient shops, I’m going to start making Bonté a habit because their waffles sure are tasty.

Lemon Tea Bread

Published by Gastronomer on May 6, 2007 in Bread and Recipe. 1 Comment

2 large lemons
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened
2 1/2 cups sugar
4 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
2 teaspoons poppy seeds

Preheat oven to 325°F. Butter and flour two 9- x 5- x 3-inch metal loaf pans, knocking out any excess flour.

Finely grate enough zest from lemons to measure 2‚ teaspoons and squeeze enough juice to measure about 1/2 cup. Into a bowl sift together flour, baking powder, and salt.

In a large bowl with an electric mixer beat together butter, 2 cups sugar, and zest until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. With mixer on low speed add flour mixture and milk alternately in batches, beginning and ending with flour mixture and beating just until batter is combined well. Beat in poppy seeds and 1 tablespoon lemon juice and divide batter between loaf pans, smoothing tops. Bake loaves in middle of oven until a tester comes out clean, about 1 hour.

While loaves are baking, in a small bowl stir together remaining lemon juice and remaining 1/2 cup sugar until sugar is dissolved.

Cool loaves in pans on a rack 15 minutes. Run a thin knife around edges of pans and invert loaves onto rack. Turn loaves right side up and pierce tops all over with a thin skewer. Repeatedly brush lemon glaze over tops of loaves until all of glaze is absorbed.

Cool loaves completely. Tea bread keeps, wrapped in wax paper, in an airtight container at room temperature 4 days or, wrapped in foil and frozen, 1 month.

Makes 2 loaves or 5 mini-loaves. When we tested the smaller loaves (which innkeeper Debby Hayden prefers), we used disposable 6- x 3- x 2-inch loaf pans—sometimes called baby loaf pans—and baked the bread for about 45 minutes instead of 1 hour.

Gourmet, May 1999

[For Printable Recipe Click Here]

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Substitutions: I halved the entire recipe to yield one loaf and skipped the poppy seeds and glaze completely. I used 100% whole wheat flour, plain yogurt in place of butter and milk, a heaping teaspoon of baking soda, 1/4 C of lemon juice in the batter, and half the sugar called for. These changes were suggested by individuals who tried the recipe on Epicurious. The bread had fabulous texture and was very lemony!