Archive for October, 2007 Page 3 of 4



Bè Bạn

September 14, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

51 Tu Xuong Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 089325028
Website: none

Com Dap - crispy rice prepared in a smashed clay pot (10,000 VND)

Com Nieu - rice cooked in clay pot (6,000 VND)

Ca Loc Kho To - braised Snakehead fish (55,000 VND)

Canh Chua Nghieu - sweet and sour soup with clams (55,000 VND)

Rau Muong Xao Toi - water spinach sauteed with garlic (25,000 VND)

Com nieu restaurants serve traditional Vietnamese dishes in a polished setting and specialize in rice prepared in clay pots. Prices are generally significantly higher than their street food counterparts, but the quality is much better, portions are generous, and the service is very good. These joints are fairly common around town, especially on Tu Xuong Street in District 3.

Com Nieu Saigon is probably the most well-known eatery for this genre of food, but the offerings at Be Ban could give them a run for their money.

My Aunt Phuong from California came to Saigon a couple of weeks ago on vacation and we met at Be Ban for lunch. Even though my aunt is originally from Vietnam, she has never tried com nieu or com dap, so we ordered one of each.

Com nieu is nothing special and tastes exactly like plain ‘ol steamed rice. Com dap, on the other hand, is really something special. The rice is made in a clay pot on extra-high heat (or something), which forms a crispy crust on the bottom. The rice is served by smashing the clay pot its cooked in and inverting the rice onto a plate. Com dap is commonly dressed with crushed black sesame seeds, nouc mam, and an oil and scallion mixture. The com dap I had at Com Nieu Saigon was adorned with all the fixings, while the com dap at Be Ban had the condiments served on the side.

All of the dishes we ordered were seriously good and sorta made me want to abandon com binh dan forever. The ca loc kho to was caramelized perfectly and extremely flavorful. I poured the fish’s syrupy sauce with bits of pork belly over some rice, which brought back fond childhood memories.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, I love canh chua. This version featured clams and the usual suspects as far as vegetables go. The clams didn’t add much additional flavor to the already stellar soup, but were texturally interesting.

The sauteed water spinach was also quite good. I’m not sure what the restaurant did with the spinach leaves, but they only served up the hollowed stalks. The greens were intensely garlicky and an excellent complement to our meal.

Although I prefer to scrounge the streets for my eats, Be Ban is a great place to take guests from out of town or unadventurous friends.

Friday Night Bites

collage

October 5, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Corner of Ho Xuan Huong Street and Nguyen Thong Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: none
Website: none

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Bo Vien, Ca Vien, Cha Gio Chien - fried meatballs, fish-balls, and eggrolls (12,000 VND)

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Xoi Man - sticky rice topped with various meats (5,000 VND)

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Xoi Dau Xanh - sticky rice with mung beans (3,000 VND)

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Bap Xao Tom Bo - corn sauteed with shrimp, scallions, and butter (5,000 VND)

Before meeting up with friends at the Diamond Plaza for bowling last Friday night, The Astronomer and I headed to the corner of Ho Xuan Huong and Nguyen Thong Street in District 3 for some grub. We’ve driven by this street on several occasions, but never got a chance to sample the goods because we were always on the back of a xe om (hired motorbike).

On this evening, there were several corn dealers (steamed and sauteed), a lone sticky rice hawker, and a man frying up meaty treats on a stick. Feeling especially hungry, The Astronomer went for a three-course feast and purchased from each of the vendors on the street. He has eaten xoi man and bap xao tom bo previously, but this was his first foray into fried-up meat and eggrolls on a stick.

The Astronomer commented that the sauteed corn tasted exactly like the version he ate in District 4. It’s really amazing how standardized street food recipes are in Vietnam! The xoi man was generously topped with cha lua, cha bong, pate, soy sauce, and an oil and scallion mixture. We’ve been on a xoi binge as of late, and this version did not disappoint. The fried meat fest was a let down. The eggrolls, meatballs, and fish-balls turned soggy from the oil rather than crisp and the hoisin sauce was too strong at times. Two out of three isn’t terrible.

For my dinner, I went for a small box of sweet xoi dau xanh sprinkled with salt and toasted sesame seeds (mui me). The xoi was moist and sticky in all the right places and the combination of sweet and salty flavors were delicious. The xoi was so tasty that I went back and bought 2,000 VND more.

Saigon Star 2

September 16, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

19 Thang Long Street
Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 088117844
Website: none

Appetizers: Onion Salad (goi hai san kieu Thai), Stir Fried Vegetables with Cashews (so diep xao hat dieu), Crab Dumplings (cang cua bach hoa)

Seafood Soup

Steamed Shrimps in Young Coconut

Banh Hoi

Thit Heo Quay

Seafood Hot Pot - lau Thai hai san

Tropical Fruit Gelatin

Vietnamese weddings are so damn cool.

I attended my first one, and sadly probably my last, a couple weeks ago at the Saigon Star 2 Restaurant. Mien, my grandma’s sister’s son’s daughter, got hitched to a fellow named Dung and they were nice enough to invite me to the celebration. The couple officially tied the knot in a Catholic ceremony a day earlier, so this evening was dedicated to partying.

The two hour reception was filled with great company and plenty of cold beers—Heineken was the bia of choice.

I arrived a bit on the late side and was greeted by the bride and groom on the staircase leading up to the banquet hall. I congratulated them on their big day, we snapped a picture with the professional photographer, and then I made my way into the dining room. I’m pretty bad with estimations, but I’d say there were somewhere around 200 guests at the shindig.

The evening began with dancers performing a little number in silky, all-white ensembles. I initially thought they were Mien or Dung’s friends, but my aunt informed me that they were hired by the restaurant:

Following the dancers, the bride and groom were introduced to the enthusiastic crowd:

Next, came the in-laws—here is my Uncle Hai and Aunt Phung:

Following the introductions, the bride and groom performed a champagne ritual. Ten minutes and three bottles of champagne later, the glasses were finally filled. Unfortunately, the bride, groom, and in-laws were the only ones who got to drink the bubbly. The dry ice brought about a mystical element to the ceremony don’t you think?

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After the champagne came the food! The six-course feast was served family-style and was very tasty as far as wedding food goes. The last wedding I attended had a buffet dishing up seven layer dip and crudités; this was definitely a giant step up. Although palatable, the food was far less memorable than the festivities. Standouts include the crab claw dumplings on the appetizer platter and the tropical fruit Jello dessert.

As guests dined, the happy couple made their rounds and greeted each table. They must have been smashed by the end of the night because every table raised their glasses.

And somewhere between all the boozing and food, the Karaoke started up and went on for the rest of the evening. My Uncle Minh sang the first song—he was completely toasted.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1mbVJ_XMF0]

Chuối Nếp Nướng

The majority of the foods I’ve been eating in Vietnam were introduced to me by my family growing up. Recently, I’ve been making an extra-effort to try new delights for variety’s sake and to expand my Vietnamese food repertoire.

After reading a mouthwatering post about chuoi nep nuong on Noodlepie, I set out to find the treat in the streets of Saigon. It didn’t take long for me to locate a man serving it up on Yersin Street in District 1. The going rate for one banana was 3,000 VND.

Chuoi nep nuong consists of gelatinous rice wrapped around a ripened finger banana and grilled to a golden hue. The grilled-up banana and rice combo are cut into small pieces and drenched with sweet coconut milk.

The gelatinous rice is chewy, crispy and sticky off the grill, while the bananas caramelize beautifully. The warm coconut milk ties together all the flavors and the result is totally fabulous.

Giac Duc

September 18-20, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese, Vegetarian

492 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 088356161
Website: none

Boiled Water Spinach (3,000 VND)

Braised Tofu with Vegetables (5,000 VND)

Stuffed Eggplant, Tomato, and Bitter Melon (5,000 VND)

BBQ “Pork” - “Thit” Heo Quay (10,000 VND)

Stir Fried Cabbage (3,000 VND)

Canh Chua (5,000 VND)

Sauteed Green Beans and Carrots (3,000 VND)

I’ve been going to lunch at Giac Duc at least twice a week for the past two weeks. I’m on a vegetarian kick because I need more veggies in my diet and less refined flours and meat. Plus, it’s totally delicious.

My three favorite dishes at Giac Duc are the BBQ “pork,” sauteed green beans, and canh chua.

The BBQ pork is hands-down the best mock meat dish ever! The taste is spot-on and the texture is unbelievably thit heo quay-like. We’re talking mock fatty pork skin! How do they do that? I think it may involve tapioca and science.

The green beans are prepared simply with butter, salt, and plenty of black pepper. With vegetables this fresh, it doesn’t take a lot to make them tasty.

The canh chua is spiced nicely and brimming with tomatoes, bean sprouts, pineapple, bac ha, and okra. I really could (and sometimes do) eat canh chua every day.

My only complaint about the eatery is that the price of the food seems to change every time I dine there. When I ate at Giac Duc with a fellow Viet Kieu, the price of the BBQ pork was 5,000 VND, but when I dined with The Astronomer, the price jumped to 10,000 VND. WTF, right? I don’t mind being gouged a little because I’m a foreigner, but at least be consistent about it.

I’ll keep coming back for the “pork.”