Monthly Archive for June, 2008

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Vegetation Profile: Durian

The durian (IPA: [ˈdʊəriən, -ɑn]) is the fruit of trees from the genus Durio belonging to the Malvaceae, a large family which includes hibiscus, okra, cotton, mallows, and linden trees. Widely known and revered in Southeast Asia as the “King of Fruits,” the fruit is distinctive for its large size, unique odour, and formidable thorn-covered husk.

The edible flesh emits a distinctive odor, strong and penetrating even when the husk is intact. Regarded by some as fragrant, others as overpowering and offensive, the smell evokes reactions from deep appreciation to intense disgust. The odor has led to the fruit’s banishment from certain hotels and public transportation in Southeast Asia.

Durian fruit is used to flavor a wide variety of sweet edibles such as traditional Malay candy, ice kachang, dodol, rose biscuits, and, with a touch of modern innovation, ice cream, milkshakes, mooncakes, Yule logs and cappuccino.

Southeast Asian folk beliefs, as well as traditional Chinese medicine, consider the durian fruit to have warming properties liable to cause excessive sweating. The traditional method to counteract this is to pour water into the empty shell of the fruit after the pulp has been consumed and drink it. An alternative method is to eat the durian in accompaniment with mangosteen, which is considered to have cooling properties. People with high blood pressure or pregnant women are traditionally advised not to consume durian.

According to a “You know you’re Vietnamese if…” list that reader N linked my way, #42 is likes durian. While #6 rang a little too true, “your parents think you’re 12 when you’re really 18,” when it comes to sau rien, I’m not that Vietnamese. While most people are put off by the smell, for me, it’s the taste. Whereas durian registers as sweet and creamy for fans, it just tastes like mushy roasted garlic to me. I don’t hate durian, it’s just far from my favorite.

Which side of the durian fence do you sit on—love or loathe?

Bánh Kẹp Ngò

Vietnamese vendors are extremely business savvy. In order to entice customers to purchase additional goods, they willingly offer up free samples. Once while at a market in Da Nang, I approached a fruit vendor to purchase guavas, and he insisted that I try a bon bon. He peeled it before I could object and came this close to sticking it in my mouth. Needless to say, I left his stand with a kilogram of guavas and an unplanned kilogram of bon bons in hand.

A cookie dealer in District 3 got me using the same brilliant technique. The Astronomer and I visited the store with the intention of buying a couple kilograms of banh lo tai, but ended up with an additional purchase of banh kep ngo after an addictive free sample.

Although vendors can be a bit pushy, I do appreciate being force fed because otherwise I’d be missing out on some really good stuff.

Banh (cookie) kep (pressed) ngo (cilantro) isn’t your average sweet cookie. It is comprised of a sprig of cilantro pressed between thin layers of crispy rice sheets. It’s difficult not to make a mess when biting through the multitude of layers, but crumbs are an unavoidable part of this treat. The best part of the cookie is the PEANUT BUTTER filling. The cilantro flavor is gentle, while the smooth, sweet and salty peanut butter takes center stage. If you’re a peanut butter aficionado like I am, theses crazy cookies are definitely up your alley.

Bánh Da Lợn

Bánh da lợn or bánh da heo (literally “pig skin cake”) is a Vietnamese steamed layer cake made from tapioca starch, rice flour, mashed mung beans, taro, or durian, coconut milk and/or water, and sugar. It is sweet and gelatinous in texture, with thin (approximately 1 cm) colored layers alternating with layers of mung bean, durian, or taro filling.

Typical versions of bánh da lợn may feature the following ingredients:

  • Pandan leaf (for green color) with mung bean paste filling
  • Pandan leaf (for green color) with durian filling
  • Lá cẩm (leaf of the magenta plant, Peristrophe roxburghiana; imparts a purple color when boiled) with mashed taro filling

In modern cooking, artificial food coloring is sometimes used in place of the vegetable coloring.

While The Astronomer was working on his tenth hour of continuous sleep this morning, I explored the wonders of District 4. I picked up fruits galore and bánh da lợn (1,000 VND). I’ve seen this sticky number sold all around town, but was always turned off by its bright green, food coloring induced glow. The ones I picked up this morning were naturally green due to pandan leaves rather than science, and filled with mung bean paste. According to the vendor, the bánh da lợn came from the city of My Tho in the Mekong Delta and are rarely sold in Saigon. It’s my lucky day.

Cơm Tấm Dì Năm – Ho Chi Minh City

May 10, 2008
Cuisine: Vietnamese

253 Khanh Hoi Street
District 4, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone 8264381
Website: none

Canh Khoai Mo

Bo Xao Bong He

Com Tam Bi Cha

I’ve written about the ins and outs of com tam on countless occasions here on gas•tron•o•my, so to keep things fresh, I’ll stick to the new stuff.

Cơm Tấm Dì Năm is an eatery specializing in com tam in District 4. It’s open from 4 AM to 10 PM everyday. The Astronomer and I dropped in a couple of Saturdays ago for lunch because after ten months of saying to myself, “I’ve got to try that place out,” timing was finally on our side. Or something like that…

I went for the com tam bi cha because it’s one of my all-time favorites. This version did not disappoint, well, except for the unavailability of op la (fried sunny-side up egg), but I got over that pretty quickly because everything else was solid.

The Astronomer was in a beefy mood and ordered beef sauteed with chive flowers. The ratio of meat to greens was skewed toward the blossoms, but Astro-man just pushed the extras aside and did what he does best.

And speaking of chives, wanna here a funny story?

Of course you do!

Back in San Diego, chives grow in front of the Nordstrom Rack at Mission Valley mall. Whenever my mom and I go shopping, she always handpicks the chives and brings them home to make hu tieu xao. Ghetto, right? I’m always so embarrassed by her deviant actions, but I have no shame eating the delicious end product.

Okay, back to Cơm Tấm Dì Năm!

After I finished my com tam, I ordered a bowl of canh khoai mo. I’ve encountered khoai mo at the markets, but never in a restaurant. The lavender soup was mild (in a good way) and had little bits of yam. Definitely very soothing and hearty. Must try again.

Vegetation Profile: Coconut

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Botanically, a coconut is a simple dry nut known as a fibrous drupe. The husk, or mesocarp, is composed of fibers called coir and there is an inner stone, or endocarp. The endocarp is the hardest part. This hard endocarp, the outside of the coconut as sold in the shops of non-tropical countries, has three germination pores that are clearly visible on the outside surface once the husk is removed. It is through one of these that the radicle emerges when the embryo germinates. Adhering to the inside wall of the endocarp is the testa, with a thick albuminous endosperm (the coconut “meat”), the white and fleshy edible part of the seed.

Although coconut meat contains less fat than other dry nuts such as peanuts and almonds, it is noted for its high amount of saturated fat. Approximately 90% of the fat found in coconut meat is saturated, a proportion exceeding that of foods such as lard, butter, and tallow. However, there has been some debate as to whether or not the saturated fat in coconuts is healthier than the saturated fat found in other foods . Coconut meat also contains less sugar and more protein than popular fruits such as bananas, apples and oranges, and it is relatively high in minerals such as iron, phosphorus and zinc.

The endosperm surrounds a hollow interior space, filled with air and often a liquid referred to as coconut water, not to be confused with coconut milk. Coconut milk is made by grating the endosperm and mixing it with (warm) water. The resulting thick, white liquid is used in Asian cooking, for example, in curries. Coconut water from the unripe coconut, however, can be drunk fresh. Young coconuts used for coconut water are called tender coconuts. The water of a tender coconut is liquid endosperm. It is sweet (mild) with aerated feel when cut fresh. Depending on the size a tender coconut could contain the liquid in the range of 300 to 1,000 ml.

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Back in the States, my mom buys young coconuts at the Vietnamese grocery store (Vien Dong in San Diego to be exact). They come packaged in plastic wrap and are of questionable origin. Whereas coconuts in Vietnam are hacked open to order, my poor mother has to cut the top off using a butcher knife. It’s quite a funny site seeing my petite mother with a huge knife desperately forcing the fruit open to get to the flesh and juice.

During my short stay in Vietnam, the price of coconuts have doubled. When I arrived last summer, a coconut sold for 3,000 VND. These days, it’s not uncommon to see a coconut for 6,000 VND. Vietnam is struggling with inflation.

In addition to being served fresh, coconuts can be used as a cooking vessel (see: bo tai dua), an ice cream bowl (see: kem trai dua) and transformed into Jello (post to come!).

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