Monthly Archive for September, 2008

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Introducing: The Saigon Top 10

Published by Gastronomer on September 16, 2008 in Potpourri and Saigon. 8 Comments

After receiving several requests for food recommendations from readers traveling to Vietnam, I decided to compile a Top 10 list of must-try delicacies. Narrowing the field of Vietnamese favorites down to 10 was an arduous task, but I think I’ve captured the flavors, essense and energy of Saigon’s unrivaled food scene with my picks. The Saigon Top 10 list will live in the orange tab at the top of the site for easy access. The Hanoi one should be up in the coming days. Happy travels and Bon Appétit!

Phở Chay – Vegetarian Phở

Published by Gastronomer on September 15, 2008 in Family Recipe, Mon An Chay, Pho, Recipe, Soups + Stew, Vegan, Vegetarian, Vegetarian, Vietnamese and Vietnamese. 26 Comments

My mom prepares this vegetarian version of pho on auspicious days according to the Lunar Calendar when all Buddhists refrain from eating meat. The broth is fragrant with star anise and five spice, while the “meat” is comprised of mushrooms and wheat gluten.

For noodles

1 package of fresh or dried banh pho (flat rice noodles). Prepare according to directions on package. Make sure to rinse noodles well under cold running water after boiling.

For broth

1 leek (leaves only)
1 yellow onion
1 ginger
5 star anise
14 oz. vegetable broth
Water
¾ tablespoon Chinese five spice
Soy sauce (Golden Mountain Seasoning Sauce)
Sugar

For “meat”

Vegetable oil
1 leek (stem only)
1 ten oz. can of mock meat/fried wheat gluten (mock duck, chicken, abalone, etc.)
8 oz. sliced mushrooms (any variety)
Soy sauce (Golden Mountain Seasoning Sauce)
Mushroom seasoning
Black pepper

Make soup

For the soup, heat vegetable broth and 10-12 cups of water in a medium-sized soup pot, leaving enough room for the ginger, onion and leek leaves.

Remove the outer layer of the onion and add it whole to the broth. Leaving the skin of the ginger intact, chop off the nubs and bruise using a mortar and pestle. Add to broth. Separate the leek leaves from the stems and add them to the broth along with five star anise “fruits.” Let the soup boil on high heat for 45 minutes to an hour, or until the onion and ginger have softened.

Once the onion and ginger have softened, discard the leek leaves. Add ¾ tablespoon of Chinese five spice to the broth and season with soy sauce and sugar to taste. Continue to cook on medium heat for an additional 15 minutes.

Make “meat” mixture

While the soup is boiling, thinly slice the leek stems and chop the mushrooms and mock meat into bite-sized pieces. Deep-fried tofu can be used in place of mock meat if desired.

Saute the leeks with vegetable oil in a medium-sized pan until golden. Add the mushrooms and “meat” to the leek and oil mixture along with half of the canned mock meat “juice.” Season to taste with soy sauce, mushroom seasoning and black pepper. Tip: My mom says to make the “meat” mixture slightly salty because the broth will balance out the excess saltiness.

Assemble and garnish

Grab a bowl and fill it with noodles and the “meat” mixture. Pour some hot broth on top. To garnish, add fresh or steamed bean sprouts, onions, cilantro, lime juice, herbs (basil, saw tooth herb, etc.), hoisin sauce and chili sauce.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Bún Thịt Nướng & Mít Luộc

Published by Gastronomer on September 12, 2008 in Bun Thit Nuong/Xao, Saigon, Street Food and Vietnamese. 4 Comments

Between The Astronomer and I, we probably ate close to fifty bowls of bun thit nuong—rice vermicelli noodles topped with grilled pork, pickled vegetables and nuoc mam—during our year in Vietnam. While I’ve always loved this dish, I learned to appreciate it even more in Saigon thanks to the hot and sticky weather. When the temperature is soaring and my knees are sweating, a noodle dish without a scalding hot broth does wonders for the psyche.

Our final bowls of bun thit nuong in the city were carefully crafted by the one, the only—Lunch Lady. Although we’ve eaten lots of her noodle offerings, we never tried her bun thit nuong because she only makes this dish on Sundays—a day I steer clear of the AsiaLIFE office. But since our days in town were winding down, and we thought it would be a pity to leave Saigon without trying each and every one of the Lunch Lady’s offerings, we made our way to the shady spot under the tree one Sunday afternoon.

I ordered one bowl with the “the works,” while The Astronomer went for two of the same. Each bowl of cool noodles came smothered in scallion oil and adorned with freshly fried cha gio (cut into small pieces using scissors, of course), pickled carrots and daikon, crushed peanuts, crispy scallions and generous hunks of grilled pork. Nouc mam was served in a small bowl on the side.

What’s unique about the Lunch Lady’s version of bun thit nuong is the addition of mit luoc—boiled green jackfruit. The jackfruit tasted a bit sour, and a lot bland. Even mixed in with some nuoc mam and noodles, I didn’t think the jackfruit added anything to the already solid bowl of bun thit nuong. I prefer my boiled jackfruit in goi (salad) form. Goi mit is bomb. Tia Nguyen has a sweet looking recipe for a jackfruit salad here.

Coconut Waffles

Published by Gastronomer on September 11, 2008 in Dessert, Saigon, Street Food and Vietnamese. 5 Comments

Pop quiz, hot shot. What’s the most popular street food sold in Saigon’s city center (i.e. the area around the Opera House, Central Post Office and Reunification Palace)? No, it’s not pho or nuoc mia (sugarcane juice). It’s coconut waffles! Heart-shaped coconut waffles to be exact.

While banh mi vendors dominate the street food scene outside the central part of town, ladies making coconut waffles are all the rage along the city’s touristy thoroughfares of Le Loi, Dong Khoi and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. I’m not sure how this trend came about, but I’d venture to guess that coconut waffles are highly profitable foodstuffs because they’re so tourist-friendly. I mean, they look just like Western waffles and have an easy-going sweetness that appeals to everyone.

The waffle batter, which is comprised of rice flour, water, coconut milk, sugar, oil and eggs, is usually made by the vendor prior to setting up shop. Vendors use cast iron molds that cook over a charcoal brazier to make each and every waffle. Can you hear the sizzle of the batter hitting the hot iron? Waffles are sold hot-off-the-mold or in pre-assembled packages of ten. Since waffles are most readily available in the touristy part of town, make sure to bargain! 6,000 VND for a bag of ten is a good deal.

Unlike the slightly cakey waffles we’re used to in the West, these Vietnamese waffles are paper-thin and wafer-like. There’s no maple syrup or pat of butter required because the batter already contains a good amount of sugar. It’s best to eat them with your bare hands because the texture is very delicate. In fact, they easily dissolve on one’s tongue. Andrea Nguyen of Viet World Kitchen has a recipe for coconut waffles if you’re interested in recreating the magic of Saigon street food in your very own home.

New Threads and Breakin' Bread in Chinatown

Published by Gastronomer on September 10, 2008 in Che, Mi Vit Tiem, Saigon, Sup, Unique Meats and Vietnamese. 5 Comments

District 5, also known as Cho Lon, is home to Saigon’s Chinese population. Unlike Chinatowns in America, the shift from neighboring districts into Cho Lon isn’t nearly as dramatic—there isn’t an ornate archway like in Philly. On the surface, District 5 more or less resembles every other district in this sprawling metropolis but with the addition of Chinese characters on storefronts, and maybe a few more steamed bun carts.

The Astronomer and I ventured into Cho Lon to Christmas shop last December, but haven’t found any reason to return since. That was until Hanh, The Astronomer’s Vietnamese teacher, mentioned that she knew a kick-ass tailor in that part of town. Like my good pal Miss Adventure said, getting custom made clothes can be a real treat.

On one very ordinary weekday evening, The Astronomer, Hanh and I ventured to Cho Lon to get some new threads made. Prior to our visit to the tailor, The Astronomer and I went fabric shopping at Cho Tan Dinh on Hai Ba Trung Street in District 1. I commissioned two dresses to be made—a replica of a dress I purchased in Bangkok and a dress designed by Theory (above) that I took pictures of when I was back in California. The Astronomer commissioned a pair of corduroy pants and a T-shirt. After the tailor took our measurements and collected a deposit, we headed to a nearby che (Vietnamese sweet soups) shop (Che Thanh Tam – 98 Bui Huu Nghia Street, District 5) for a bite to eat.

I grossed out both of my dining companions by ordering the che me den—sweet black sesame seed soup. The che was served warm and resembled tar, but trust me, it really tasted great. The flavors were sweet, full and nutty. It was even better than the cold black sesame seed Jell-O that I enjoyed so much in Hong Kong at the roast goose eatery.

Hanh started off with a faux tofu che that was less fun than a box of rocks. The cubes of “tofu” were made of agar, and even though they were supposed to be flavored with pandan and ginger, they didn’t bring much to the table.

She also ordered a che with bitter beans/nuts because she wanted to introduce The Astronomer and me to something new. Hanh really dug it, but it just wasn’t our cup of tea. Please holla (or just leave a comment) if you know the name of this not so sweet treat.

To supplement her two che, Hanh ordered a bowl of pig brain soup (sup oc heo) from the eatery next door. While I’m down with brains, I don’t really like the consistency of Vietnamese-style sup. The broth is just too gelatinous.

Not much of a che enthusiast, The Astronomer ordered a bowl of mi vit tiem from Quyen Ky Mi Gia which was located on the other side of the che shop. The noodles and greens arrived in one bowl, while the broth and duck leg came in a clay pot. The ratio of meat to noodles was insanely skewed—The Astronomer had to order an extra helping of noodles to balance it out. After enjoying the lunch lady’s version, this bowl of mi vit tiem paled in comparison, especially since it cost four times as much.

A couple weeks later, The Astronomer and I returned to the tailor to pick up our new apparel. He didn’t get everything right the first time around, but after a few refittings, we left his shop extremely happy clients. Here are my new dresses! And here’s where you should go if you’d like to get some custom made clothes in Saigon (bring a Vietnamese speaker along): Le Phuc – Tailor Extraordinaire (430/1 Phan Van Tri Street, District 5, Ho Chi Minh City. Phone: 0908006538.