Monthly Archive for March, 2009

Taihei Restaurant – Monterey Park

Published by Gastronomer on March 31, 2009 in Japanese, Los Angeles, Monterey Park and Restaurant Review. 6 Comments

Whenever my mom comes into town for business and wants to meet up for dinner, I almost always find a joint in Monterey Park. The city is brimming with amazing eats and is perfectly equidistant from my home and her hotel room. Plus, I’ve yet to have a meal here that’s come anywhere close to letting me down. You could say that Monterey Park is the America’s Test Kitchen of restaurant towns—foolproof.

Not in the mood for Chinese fare on this visit, my mom suggested sushi for our meet-up. A little fiddling around on Yelp yielded Taihei, an age-old, family-run sushi shop that’s notoriously busy on the weekends. Luckily, we were dining on an uneventful Wednesday night.

The Astronomer, my mother, and I decided to share a variety of nigiri and rolls this evening. Instead of ordering verbally, we filled out an order form with a number two pencil. The nigiri, which come in sets of two, arrived first. The scallop nigiri ($4.25) was piled high with delicate baby scallops dressed lightly in mayonnaise and roe. It was a delightful treat and my favorite nigiri of the evening.

My mom requested an order of uni (M.P.). The first time I tasted uni was at Kanoyama in New York City a couple years back. Even though my brother hyped it up like no other, the experience wasn’t all that mind-blowing, and I haven’t had it since. The uni this evening was incredibly fresh, but there still weren’t any fireworks between us. Maybe next time.

The octopus ($4.25) was simple and good. Next time I’d like to try the one seasoned with lemon and salt for a bit more complexity.

The beautiful pieces of yellowtail ($4.50) were sliced nice and thick with a dab of wasabi between the cool fish and the warm rice.

The rolls arrived soon after the nigiri. The Astronomer’s favorite of the evening was the eel and cucumber ($6.75).

The spicy tuna roll ($6) was also a winner. The ingredients and technique at Taihei are impeccable—each piece and roll is constructed with skill and care.

My favorite roll of the evening were the scallops ($6.75). The plump morsels melted in my mouth. This was the first time I’ve tasted scallops in sushi, and I must admit that I’m an enthusiastic fan.

The spider roll ($8.95) was slightly dry, but still highly enjoyable. Giant rolls like this one are difficult to eat in one bite, but it doesn’t stop me from trying because I always strive for “a bite with everything.”

To round off our dinner, we shared a serving of whole soft shell crabs, which were served with a light soy sauce for dipping. My mom proclaimed it the best soft shell crab she’s ever eaten.

In a city with an endless selection of amazing restaurants, an eatery has to be truly outstanding to warrant a repeat visit. I’d return to Taihei again in a heartbeat.

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Taihei
2195 S. Garfield Avenue
Monterey Park, CA 91754
Phone: 323-726-1787

Bò Kho – Vietnamese Beef Stew

Published by Gastronomer on March 30, 2009 in Bo Kho, Family Recipe, Recipe, Soups + Stew, Vietnamese and Vietnamese. 21 Comments

If Vietnamese noodle soups were a high school popularity contest, Pho would be crowned Homecoming King, while Bun Bo Hue would be voted Most Likely to Succeed. Bò Kho, on the other hand, would probably be chilling on the grassy knoll with the stoners; high and oblivious to the hype. Even though Bò Kho has yet to take the culinary world by storm, it is still my all-time favorite noodle soup. Bò Kho is hearty, a bit spicy, a lot savory, and absolutely delicious.

I finally tried my hand at making Bò Kho with my grandma last weekend. As is the case with most of my family’s recipes, everything is prepared “by feel” and “to taste.” Since I know this dish like the back of my hand, these seemingly abstract spicing and seasoning methods are crystal clear. However, for those unfamiliar with this particular noodle soup, I’d highly recommend getting a feel for the flavor profile at a local Vietnamese restaurant or, even better, at your Vietnamese friend’s grandma’s house before preparing it at home.

2.5 pounds beef shank
1/2 pound beef tendon
1 pound carrots
1 medium onion, additional for garnish
5 garlic cloves
1 shallot
1 stalk lemongrass
Vegetable oil
1 7-ounce can crushed tomatoes
Bò Kho powder seasoning (Three Bells or Con Voy brand)
Salt
Sugar
Monosodium Glutamate (MSG)
Vietnamese fish sauce (Red Boat)
Cilantro
Wide rice noodles, prepared according to package

Grandma and I started our day of cooking at the Vietnamese grocery store. We picked up two beefy parts: tendon and shank. The quantities specified above will make a huge pot of Bò Kho with 10 to 12 servings. If you’re not cooking for a crowd or don’t appreciate ample leftovers, scale down the amount of meat.

Begin by rinsing the shank under cold water to remove any impurities. Next, trim off the thick layer of cartilage surrounding the shank using a sharp knife. Also, trim any large pieces of cartilage within the shank and set them aside.

Cut the shank lengthwise along the grain into 1 ½ -inch chunks and set aside.

The tendon and shank cartilage are extremely tough cuts of meat and thus require a lengthy boiling period in order to tenderize. Boil the tendon and shank cartilage on medium-high heat for approximately an hour and a half in a medium-sized saucepan. Skim off the scum that forms on the surface with a wire skimmer. As the water evaporates, add in enough water to cover the entire surface of the meat.

Once the tendon and shank cartilage is suitably chewy, remove from water, chop into bite-sized chunks, and add to soup.

While the tendon is boiling away, mince the garlic and shallots, finely chop the onion, and peel and cut the carrots into 1-inch chunks. If there are any large chunks of tomatoes, make sure that they are finely chopped as well.

Cook the onions, garlic, shallots, and bruised lemongrass stalk in a tablespoon of vegetable oil on medium heat until soft and fragrant. Add in chunks of shank and saute until the meat begins to brown on all sides, approximately 7 minutes.

Season the mixture with 1/2 teaspoon sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt and add the crushed tomatoes along with juice. Next, add in two tablespoons of Bò Kho seasoning and enough water to cover the surface of the mixture. Let it simmer on medium-low heat for 25 to 30 minutes in order for the meat to absorb the plethora of seasonings.

After the simmering period, add the carrots and enough water to dilute the spices—approximately four times more liquid than the amount already in the pot. Season with several shots of fish sauce, a light sprinkling of MSG, and additional salt and sugar to taste. Cook the soup on medium heat until the beef is tender and flavors have married, approximately an hour and a half. Right before serving, do a final taste test. Add salt or fish sauce to intensify the overall flavor, or add a bit of water to lighten the broth.

Ladle hot broth over wide rice noodles and garnish with freshly chopped cilantro and thinly sliced onions. Bò Kho is also traditionally eaten with a freshly toasted baguette.

Quizzo V

Published by Gastronomer on March 28, 2009 in Potpourri and Quizzo. 6 Comments

The first person to correctly guess the gastronomical significance of this house wins big dong (and no whammies)…

Mitsuwa Marketplace – Los Angeles (Torrance)

Published by Gastronomer on March 27, 2009 in Japanese, Los Angeles, Markets, Restaurant Review and Torrance. 10 Comments

Back in November, gas•tron•o•my reader Anh tipped me off to Mitsuwa Markeplace after I whined about the frozen deconstructed sushi I endured at Mako Bowl in Pasadena. “Go to Mitsuwa Marketplace, Cathy!” encouraged Anh. “They’ve probably got the most decent grocery store sushi I’ve ever seen.”

When the running gods cursed me recently with a shoddy pair of running shoes that needed returning in Torrance, the food gods smiled down and reminded me of Mitsuwa nearby. Hip, hip, hooray.

Mitsuwa Marktplace is part grocery store and part food court—The Astronomer and I explored both on our afternoon visit. After scanning the available eating options, we began our feast at Mifune.

The life-like plastic food displays along each of the vendors’ kiosks were very helpful in determining where and what to eat. For a measly $6.50 we received a bowl of pork katsu curry and a hot bowl of wakame udon.

Both the pork katsu curry and wakame udon were solid. In all honesty, at $6.50 a pop, it’d be silly to complain. The pork katsu had a nice, crisp exterior, while the smooth curry was spicy and mildly sweet. I’m always surprised by how creamy Japanese curry is each time I eat it.

The wakame udon tasted really healthy—clear broth with lots of seaweed floating about. The udon noodles had a pleasantly firm bite.

After our meal at Mifune, we were feeling pretty stuffed. To make room for more Japanese goodness, The Astronomer and I explored the grocery store section of the marketplace. I picked up some rice crackers (the ones wrapped in nori were bomb), while The Astronomer went for some Pocky.

Next, we grabbed some sushi at Daikichi, Mitsuwa’s only sushi vendor. As promised by Anh, the selection appeared to be fresh and vibrant.

After a bit of hemming and hawing, I finally settled on a spicy tuna roll ($4.99) and some inari ($4.50). The spicy tuna roll was the spiciest spicy tuna roll The Astronomer and I have ever consumed. Our eyes were seriously watering with each tasty bite. The plump little inaris were filled with sweet and vinegary rice. There’s something so simple and satisfying about inari that I can’t resist.

Mitsuwa Marketplace has great energy and excellent eats; this is the way food courts should be. Sha sha.

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Mitsuwa Markeplace
21515 Western Avenue
Torrance, CA 90501
Phone: 310-782-0335

The Bazaar by José Andrés – Los Angeles (Beverly Hills)

Published by Gastronomer on March 26, 2009 in Beverly Hills, Los Angeles, Molecular Gastronomy, Restaurant Review, Small Plates and Spanish. 13 Comments

The Bazaar

As soon as I finished reading S. Irene Virbila’s four-star review in the Los Angeles Times for The Bazaar by José Andrés, I tickled my telly and made a reservation for two the following week. I’ve always had an affinity for the quirky culinary genre of molecular gastronomy (See: Alinea and Snackbar) and was excited to experience L.A.’s hottest Spanish import since Penelope Cruz.

The Bazaar-1

The layout of The Bazaar is unlike any dining space I’ve ever experienced. Designed by Philippe Starck, the restaurant is comprised of several funky venues in one. There are two tapas bars (Blanca and Rojo), Bar Centro, and a pretty in pink Patisserie.

We were seated in the contemporary Blanca room. The abundance of blond wood furniture and creamy vanilla decor seemed fitting for a garden party, but not so much for a night on the town. I yearned for the spicy Rojo room next door.

Upon settling into our table, The Astronomer and I were each presented with two menus—the red one was comprised of classic Spanish tapas (with a modern twist), while the gray one consisted of bold molecular gastronomy creations.

Our lovely-as-can-be waitress advised us to order four tapas each. Our first course was the Japanese Tacos ($10). The name of the dish was much more enticing than what arrived at our table—grilled eel, shiso leaf, cucumber, wasabi, and chicharron. The dish was pleasant, but wasn’t a “revelation” as promised by Ms. Virbila.

The Not Your Everyday Caprese ($12) has emerged as one of The Bazaar’s signature dishes. The cherry tomatoes were plump, juicy, and perfect, while the liquid mozzarella was creamy and delightful. The tomatoes and mozzarella were topped with “air bread” (“hollow crackers” is more fitting), fresh basil, and cracked black pepper. The moment when the smooth mozzarella orbs give in to the pressure of one’s teeth is quite spectacular.

This dish was fun and lively, but the combination of flavors wasn’t as adventurous as I had hoped for. It would’ve been awesome if Andrés had taken a cue from fellow El Bulli alum Grant Achatz and mashed up some unlikely flavors to create something truly extra-ordinary.

The presentation of the Just Shrimp Cocktail “Yeah Right” ($12) was admittedly eye-catching, but the overall taste was a yawn. The worst part of the dish were the small and over-cooked shrimps; they were nothing like the plump jumbo ones I was expecting. Consuming cocktail sauce via pipette was a novel experience, but it couldn’t hide the fact that we were eating inferior shrimps.

The Philly Cheesesteak ($8) marked the transition from cold plates to hot ones. “Air bread,” making its second appearance of the evening, was piped full of oozy cheddar cheese and topped with Wagyu beef. The cheesesteak’s flavors and textures were nothing short of fabulous; definitely one of the stars of The Bazaar.

The foie gras sliders ($12) on brioche buns with quince paste were really, really rich. The quince was too mild to balance the foie overload, but the coarse salt flakes atop the buns were up to the job. Note to self: You do not like foie gras unless it’s in ice cream sandwich form.

The Bazaar-2

The Astronomer was enamored with the sweet potato chips ($10) with yogurt, tamarind, and star anise. I, on the other hand, didn’t come to a four-star restaurant for chips and dip.

The Butifarra—Catalan pork sausage, white beans, mushrooms Senator Moynihan ($9)—was straightforward and tasty. The sausages weren’t anything special, but the texture of the beans had a sear that was outstanding.

Our final dish of the evening was the lamb loin with foraged mushrooms and potato puree ( $14). The only interesting component of this dish was the gelée of natural jus adhering to the lamb. Other than that novel twist, the flavors were fairly ordinary, and the texture of the lamb wasn’t melt-in-your-mouth amazing.

The Bazaar-3

For dessert, we moved from the Blanca room to the Patisserie a few paces away. This change of scenery is a very cool and unique part of The Bazaar dining experience. The Patisserie’s vibe is completely different from the room we were previously in. Carnation pink is the dominant color and everywhere one looks there is literal and figurative eye candy.

The Bazaar-4

The Astronomer and I shared a Nitro Coconut Floating Island ($10) for dessert. A ladle of coconut milk is dipped in liquid nitrogen for one hot minute. The chemical causes a slightly hard shell to form around the exterior, while the innards remain light and foamy. The coconut milk “island” was paired with bananas and passion fruit, which reminded me of the flavors of South East Asia.

The Bazaar1

As we paid our bill, we were treated to chocolate-covered Pop Rocks. I was disappointed to learn from our waiter that the Pop Rocks were purchased from an outside vendor and only covered in chocolate in-house. The best part of the Pop Rocks finale was the look on The Astronomer’s face as he experienced Pop Rocks for the very first time. Priceless, truly priceless.

When it comes to molecular gastronomy, I want wild textures and even wilder flavor pairings. The Bazaar wasn’t nearly bizarre enough.

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The Bazaar by José Andrés
SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills
465 S La Cienega Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90048
Phone: 310-246-5567