Archive for March, 2009

Taihei Restaurant – Monterey Park

Whenever my mom comes into town for business and wants to meet up for dinner, I almost always find a joint in Monterey Park. The city is brimming with amazing eats and is perfectly equidistant from my home and her hotel room. Plus, I’ve yet to have a meal here that’s come anywhere close to letting me down. You could say that Monterey Park is the America’s Test Kitchen of restaurant towns—foolproof.

Not in the mood for Chinese fare on this visit, my mom suggested sushi for our meet-up. A little fiddling around on Yelp yielded Taihei, an age-old, family-run sushi shop that’s notoriously busy on the weekends. Luckily, we were dining on an uneventful Wednesday night.

The Astronomer, my mother, and I decided to share a variety of nigiri and rolls this evening. Instead of ordering verbally, we filled out an order form with a number two pencil. The nigiri, which come in sets of two, arrived first. The scallop nigiri ($4.25) was piled high with delicate baby scallops dressed lightly in mayonnaise and roe. It was a delightful treat and my favorite nigiri of the evening.

My mom requested an order of uni (M.P.). The first time I tasted uni was at Kanoyama in New York City a couple years back. Even though my brother hyped it up like no other, the experience wasn’t all that mind-blowing, and I haven’t had it since. The uni this evening was incredibly fresh, but there still weren’t any fireworks between us. Maybe next time.

The octopus ($4.25) was simple and good. Next time I’d like to try the one seasoned with lemon and salt for a bit more complexity.

The beautiful pieces of yellowtail ($4.50) were sliced nice and thick with a dab of wasabi between the cool fish and the warm rice.

The rolls arrived soon after the nigiri. The Astronomer’s favorite of the evening was the eel and cucumber ($6.75).

The spicy tuna roll ($6) was also a winner. The ingredients and technique at Taihei are impeccable—each piece and roll is constructed with skill and care.

My favorite roll of the evening were the scallops ($6.75). The plump morsels melted in my mouth. This was the first time I’ve tasted scallops in sushi, and I must admit that I’m an enthusiastic fan.

The spider roll ($8.95) was slightly dry, but still highly enjoyable. Giant rolls like this one are difficult to eat in one bite, but it doesn’t stop me from trying because I always strive for “a bite with everything.”

To round off our dinner, we shared a serving of whole soft shell crabs, which were served with a light soy sauce for dipping. My mom proclaimed it the best soft shell crab she’s ever eaten.

In a city with an endless selection of amazing restaurants, an eatery has to be truly outstanding to warrant a repeat visit. I’d return to Taihei again in a heartbeat.

Taihei
2195 S. Garfield Avenue
Monterey Park, CA 91754
Phone: 323-726-1787

Taihei Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Taihei Restaurant in Los Angeles

Bò Kho – Vietnamese Beef Stew

If Vietnamese noodle soups were a high school popularity contest, Pho would be crowned Homecoming King, while Bun Bo Hue would be voted Most Likely to Succeed. Bò Kho, on the other hand, would probably be chilling on the grassy knoll with the stoners; high and oblivious to the hype. Even though Bò Kho has yet to take the culinary world by storm, it is still my all-time favorite noodle soup. Bò Kho is hearty, a bit spicy, a lot savory, and absolutely delicious.

I finally tried my hand at making Bò Kho with my grandma last weekend. As is the case with most of my family’s recipes, everything is prepared “by feel” and “to taste.” Since I know this dish like the back of my hand, these seemingly abstract spicing and seasoning methods are crystal clear. However, for those unfamiliar with this particular noodle soup, I’d highly recommend getting a feel for the flavor profile at a local Vietnamese restaurant or, even better, at your Vietnamese friend’s grandma’s house before preparing it at home.

  • 2.5 pounds beef shank
  • 1/2 pound beef tendon
  • 1 pound carrots
  • 1 medium onion, and additional for garnish
  • 5 garlic cloves
  • 1 shallot
  • 1 stalk lemongrass
  • Vegetable oil
  • 1 7-ounce can crushed tomatoes
  • Bò Kho powder seasoning (Three Bells or Con Voy brand)
  • Salt
  • Sugar
  • Monosodium Glutamate (MSG)
  • Vietnamese fish sauce (Squid brand)
  • Cilantro
  • Wide rice noodles, prepared according to package

Grandma and I started our day of cooking at the Vietnamese grocery store. We picked up two beefy parts: tendon and shank. The quantities specified above will make a huge pot of Bò Kho with 10 to 12 servings. If you’re not cooking for a crowd or don’t appreciate ample leftovers, scale down the amount of meat.

Begin by rinsing the shank under cold water to remove any impurities. Next, trim off the thick layer of cartilage surrounding the shank using a sharp knife. Also, trim any large pieces of cartilage within the shank and set them aside.

Cut the shank lengthwise along the grain into 1½ -inch chunks and set aside.

The tendon and shank cartilage are extremely tough cuts of meat and thus require a lengthy boiling period in order to tenderize. Boil the tendon and shank cartilage on medium-high heat for approximately an hour and a half in a medium-sized saucepan. Skim off the scum that forms on the surface with a wire skimmer. As the water evaporates, add in enough water to cover the entire surface of the meat.

Once the tendon and shank cartilage is suitably chewy, remove from water, chop into bite-sized chunks, and add to soup.

While the tendon is boiling away, mince the garlic and shallots, finely chop the onion, and peel and cut the carrots into 1-inch chunks. If there are any large chunks of tomatoes, make sure that they are finely chopped as well.

Cook the onions, garlic, shallots, and bruised lemongrass stalk in a tablespoon of vegetable oil on medium heat until soft and fragrant. Add in chunks of shank and saute until the meat begins to brown on all sides, approximately 5 to 10 minutes.

Season the mixture with sugar and salt and add the crushed tomatoes along with juice. Next, add in two tablespoons of Bò Kho seasoning and enough water to cover the surface of the mixture. Let it simmer on medium-low heat for 25 to 30 minutes in order for the meat to absorb the plethora of seasonings.

After the simmering period, add the carrots and enough water to dilute the spices—approximately four times more liquid than the amount already in the pot. Season with several shots of fish sauce, a light sprinkling of MSG, and additional salt and sugar to taste. Cook the soup on medium heat until the beef is tender and flavors have married, approximately an hour and a half. Right before serving, do a final taste test. Add salt or fish sauce to intensify the overall flavor, or add a bit of water to lighten the broth.

Ladle hot broth over wide rice noodles and garnish with freshly chopped cilantro and thinly sliced onions. Bò Kho is also traditionally eaten with a freshly toasted baguette.

Quizzo V

The first person to correctly guess the gastronomical significance of this house wins big dong (and no whammies)…






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