Monthly Archive for April, 2009

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Back A Yard – Menlo Park

Published by Gastronomer on April 16, 2009 in Jamaican, Restaurant Review and Silicon Valley. 1 Comment

A mild case of human smuggling brought The Astronomer and me to Back A Yard in Menlo Park. Our friend Matt, who traveled with us from L.A. to The Bay, needed to meet up with his friends A.J. and Ariel in Mountain View. Rather than drop off Matt at A.J. and Ariel’s place, we decided to meet halfway in Menlo Park for a casual lunch. The impromptu meet-up also provided a fun opportunity to put a face to a food blog—Ariel is the author of This Food is my J.A.M. The more cameras at a meal, the merrier.

According the restaurant’s website, ‘Back A Yard’ is a Caribbean term that encompasses the “lifestyle, culture, spirit, cuisine, and festive mood of welcoming visitors to your home.” Located in a not-so-swank part of The Peninsula, this brightly painted hole-in-the-wall seats just sixteen people. All orders are placed and paid for up front with the cashier. Food is delivered hot from the kitchen soon after.

Mandy Erickson of the San Francisco Chronicle writes, “At Back A Yard, jerk cooking, a marriage of Jamaican spices and African barbecue techniques, is applied to pork, chicken, salmon, steak and tofu. The marinade permeates the meat (or meat substitute), adding complexity of flavor and heat without overwhelming the palate.”

The Astronomer and I shared a Jerk Chicken and Pork Combo ($11.50), which came with rice and beans, fried plantains, a small salad, and a garlicky dipping sauce on the side. The chicken and pork, which were seasoned with allspice, nutmeg, Scotch bonnet peppers, and thyme, were moist, flavorful, and fatty in all the right places. The plantains were nicely caramelized and pleasantly sweet, while the rice and beans took on the same flavor profile as the meats. The food at Back A Yard is straightforward, hearty, and satisfying.

In addition to our jerk platter, we ordered a side of corn festivals ($2.25). These doughnut-like pieces of fried flour and cornmeal were slightly sweet, simultaneously springy yet doughy, and very addictive. They paired perfectly with the jerky meats and savory rice.

Lastly, our table shared a slice of key lime pie ($2.75). The graham cracker crust was crumbly and buttery, while the curd filling delicately balanced sweet and tart.

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Back A Yard
1189 Willow Road
Menlo Park, CA 94025
Phone: 650-323-4244

Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream – San Francisco

Published by Gastronomer on April 15, 2009 in Dessert, Restaurant Review and San Francisco. 9 Comments

Fried Chicken Thursday at Magnolia Pub and Brewery was immediately followed by ice cream for grownups at Humphry Slocombe in The Mission.

Humphry Slocombe was one of two standout San Francisco ice cream shops that Jon, The Gourmet Pig, recommended to me. “Humphry Slocombe and Bi-rite Creamery both make excellent ice cream. Humphry Slocombe makes slightly more off-beat flavors, like foie gras and other such things. They’re both in the mission, so why not try them both?”

Now, that’s the mentality of a serious eater.

I wanted to sample the goods at both shops, but the pack of boys I was dining with weren’t nearly as ambitious or curious as I was, so I had to settle on one. Since unique always trumps normal in my world; I went with Humphry Slocombe.

The flavors at Humphry Slocombe rotate daily with about ten to twelve varieties on offer each day. Jake Godby, the mastermind behind the shop, is “not afraid of salt or assertive flavors” and challenges ice cream-goers with flavors like strawberry candied jalapeño, pistachio-bacon, and government cheese.

After a handful of samples, including an odd tasting balsamic caramel, The Astronomer and I settled on a scoop of honey thyme and another of kumquat-poppy seed ($3.25). I loved how each of the flavors were bold, clear, and distinct—the experience was more reminiscent of eating premium gelato than ice cream.

Humphry Slocombe’s ice cream is so daring and different that only a fraction of the twelve flavors on hand struck me as truly delicious. Even so, I’d take a maverick (ha!) ice cream shop over the standard thirty-one flavors any day.

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Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream
2790 Harrison Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
Phone: 415-550-6971

Magnolia Pub and Brewery – San Francisco

Published by Gastronomer on April 14, 2009 in Gastropub, Restaurant Review and San Francisco. 5 Comments

“I’m coming to San Francisco and want you to tell me where to eat,” I wrote to my friend Jon, The Gourmet Pig. “What’s your top three for not too fancy but solid eats?”

Jon went above and beyond my request and prepared a list of over ten top-notch places for me to try. Although I wanted to hit them all, time constraints kept me from rocking the Bay Area party to the fullest. One of the items that stuck out from the lengthy list was Magnolia Pub and Brewery. “Go for their beers and fried chicken on Thursdays,” recommended Jon.

For some inexplicable reason, I find foods that are consumed on a designated day of the week infinitely more appealing than those that are always available. Granted, fried chicken tastes great just about every day, but the fact that it’s served only on Thursdays at Magnolia somehow makes it all the more special. I heart gimmicks.

The Astronomer and I, along with our good friends and former teammates Matt and Paul, headed to Magnolia for an early dinner. When we arrived at the bar, I was surprised by the large number of babies on the premise—I guess new parents need their fried chicken fix too. I was also taken aback by the general lack of dinginess. Gastropubs in San Francisco are so clean and family-friendly!

Even though I arrived with fried chicken on the brain, I couldn’t resist the roasted beet salad starter ($9). The red and golden beats were paired with arugula, goat cheese, cara cara oranges, fennel, ground pepper, and a creamy dressing. All the ingredients were extremely fresh and at their most delicious (and nutritious) peak. Well-composed salads are kind of like art.

My three dining companions and I shared two orders of the fried chicken special ($18 per order). Each portion consisted of half a chicken and two sides. Our plates of hormone-free fried chicken arrived meticulously deboned atop toothsome grits smothered in savory gravy. The platter was finished off with a neat pile of buttery sauteed spinach.

Without bones to gnaw on, our fried chicken dinner was strictly a knife and fork affair. The well-seasoned and thickly battered chicken was fried to a delicious crisp, leaving the meat tender and juicy. The grits, gravy, and spinach, which were all great on their own, complemented the chicken very well. The Astronomer was so enamored with the gravy that he drenched his chicken in it before every bite.

My friends and I weren’t expecting such a gourmet fried chicken experience at a bar, but were pleased as heck with our dinner. There’s no question that Magnolia fries up a killer bird.

Thanks, Jon.

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Magnolia Pub and Brewery
1398 Haight Street
San Francisco, CA 94117
Phone: 415-864-7468

Golden Deli – San Gabriel

Published by Gastronomer on April 13, 2009 in Bun Thit Nuong/Xao, Cha Gio, Chao Tom, Com Tam, Los Angeles, Restaurant Review, San Gabriel and Vietnamese. 5 Comments

Golden Deli is considered to be Los Angeles’ best Vietnamese restaurant by many discerning diners. It’s too early in the game for me to chime in on which Vietnamese eatery I think is the city’s best, but Golden Deli is definitely an all-around solid joint.

In comparison to Cơm Tấm Thuận Kiều and arch-nemesis Vietnam House, Golden Deli has a spiffier and warmer interior. Pleasant ambiance isn’t something I seek out in Vietnamese restaurants, but I appreciate it where it’s found. The people who work here are also really fantastic—I had fun conversing with our waiter in my growing-worse-by-the-day Vietnamese.

My friend Carissa and I dined at Golden Deli on a random weekday for lunch. Even though the space was packed to the rafters, we didn’t have to wait long for a table to open up. We started off our midday Vietnamese banquet with an order of Golden Deli’s famous cha gio ($5.75). According to LA Weekly’s Jonathan Gold, “Golden Deli has the best cha gio, fried Vietnamese spring rolls, in the observable universe.”

The cha gio here are hefty and generously stuffed with ground pork, wood ear mushrooms, glass noodles, and carrots. The plate of greens and herbs served with the rolls was plentiful, and the nuoc cham was just right. There’s no doubt that Golden Deli churns out a tasty cha gio, but like a lot of Vietnamese foods found in these here parts, they’re far too large. As a result of their bulk, oil tends to cling to the wrappers, creating a heavier overall package.

Vietnamese food, even of the deep-fried variety, should always be light and fresh. The title of best cha gio in the observable universe goes to my great aunt Ba Sau—her pinky-sized rolls with perfectly blistered wrappers are unrivaled.

Carissa requested that I order her something fabulous, so I chose one of my all-time faves—com tam bi cha thit nuong trung opla ($7.95). The broken rice platter was comprised of three awesomely delicious and awesomely different pork preparations, along with two fried eggs. Carissa’s favorite was the tender pork loaf. She gave me a taste and I was very impressed—the loaf was steamed to perfection and tasted just like grandma’s.

I ordered a bowl of bun thit nuong chao tom ($6.25)—cool vermicelli rice noodles topped with grilled pork, grilled shrimp paste, crushed peanuts, fried shallots, and scallion oil. Beneath the noodles and meat were a heap of bean sprouts, shredded lettuce, and herbs. The bun thit nuong chao tom was highly enjoyable but would’ve been better if the shrimp paste had been served with its traditional sugarcane skewer. In a city brimming with great Vietnamese eats, it’s the little details that give one restaurant an edge over the others. Show me the sugarcane.

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Golden Deli
815 W. Las Tunas Drive
San Gabriel, CA 91776
Phone: 626-308-0803

Fresh Mango Bread

Published by Gastronomer on April 11, 2009 in Bread, Breakfast / Brunch, Dessert and Recipe. 11 Comments

Dorie Greenspan’s Baking: From My Home to Yours has been a tremendous source of baking inspiration for me recently. This Fresh Mango Bread is the third recipe of hers that I’ve prepared in the span of two and a half weeks—my oven and measuring spoons have been getting quite a workout.

This quick bread sets itself apart from the banana and zucchini breads of the world with its deliciously caramelized crust. When I took the bread out of the oven after an hour-and-a-half of baking, I was afraid that I had burned the exterior to an unpleasant crisp. At first bite, I realized this wasn’t the case at all. Whew! Another winner from Dorie.

3 large eggs
3/4 cup flavorless oil, such as canola or safflower oil
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar
2 cups diced mango (from 1 large peeled and pitted mango)
3/4 cup moist, plump golden raisins
Grated zest of 1/2 a lime

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter an 8 1/2 x 4 1/2-inch loaf pan, dust the inside with flour and tap out the excess. Put the pan on an insulated baking sheet or on two regular baking sheets stacked one on top of the other. (This extra insulation will keep the bottom of the bread from over-baking).

Begin by dicing the mangoes. Set aside.

Whisk the eggs and oil together.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, spices and salt. Rub the brown sugar between your palms into the bowl, breaking up any lumps, then stir it in.

Pour the wet ingredients over the dry, switch to a sturdy rubber spatula or wooden spoon and mix until blended—the batter will be very thick (really more like a dough than a batter) and not easily mixed, but persevere, it will soon come together.

Stir in the mango, raisins and zest. Scrape the batter into the pan and smooth the top with a rubber spatula.

Bake the bread for 1 1/2 hours, or until it is golden brown and a thin knife inserted into the center comes out clean. (If the bread looks as if it’s getting too brown as it bakes, cover it loosely with a foil tent). Transfer the pan to a rack and cool 5 minutes before running a knife around the sides of the pan and unmolding. Invert and cool to room temperature right side up on the rack.

Serving: As good as this bread is freshly baked, I think it’s even better the next day. one day spent wrapped in plastic seems to intensify the fruit and spice flavors. Of course, if you can’t wait, don’t. Just cut the loaf into thick slices and serve with tea, hot or iced, or coffee.

Storing: Wrapped in plastic, the cake will keep for about 4 days at room temperature.