Monthly Archive for August, 2009

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Rick Stein’s Far Eastern Odyssey

Over a year and a half ago, while I was still living in Saigon, I was tapped by the producers of Rick Stein’s Far Eastern Odyssey to appear on a segment they were taping in Vietnam. I wasn’t hip to Mr. Stein’s culinary accomplishments at the time, but was glad to be of service. After all, sharing the virtues of Vietnamese food is easily one of my favorite things to do.

The show finally aired on BBC Two in the U.K. last month, and the above clip features a little glimpse of yours truly—Thanks to Graham of Noodlepie for digging it up on You Tube. I always get a kick out of meeting bloggers in real life or seeing their mugs revealed, so I thought I’d share this little snippet with you.

To view the episode in its entirety, click here.

Crumbs Bake Shop – Los Angeles (Beverly Hills)

I think about cupcakes a lot. Aside from baking them, buying them, and analyzing their merits on an all too regular basis, I also read about them in the paper, in cookbooks, and online. After a great deal of thought and introspection on the sweet subject, I’ve concluded that cupcake lovers can be divided into two camps: In-the-Box and Out-of-the-Box.

Team In-the-Box seeks a cupcake that tastes like it came from Betty Crocker or Duncan Hines’ oven. The cake is fluffy and airy, while the frosting is unabashedly sweet and messily applied. These folks are of the thought that nothing tastes better than childhood nostalgia and embrace joints like Yummy Cupcakes (Santa Monica, Glendale) and Violet’s Cakes (Pasadena) with all of their sugary hearts.

Team Out-of-the-Box desires a more unique and thoughtful product—a cupcake so special that it cannot be replicated at home, unless of course one’s pantry contains Madagascar bourbon vanilla and imported sprinkles. The cake tends to be dense, yet moist, while the easier-on-the-sugar frosting is always stylishly applied. Cupcakeries like Sprinkles Cupcakes (Beverly Hills) and Dots Cupcakes (Pasadena) hit a home run with this crowd.

As Captain of Team Out-of-the-Box, Crumbs Bake Shop didn’t sweep me off of my feet. The vanilla cake with chocolate cream cheese frosting ($2.95) tasted disappointingly ordinary with strangely buttery tones—I swore I was eating a pound cake. While the cupcake was pleasant enough to avoid being tossed in the bin half eaten, it lacked the “specialness” that I desire in a boutique cupcake experience. After all, if I’m going to go through the trouble of procuring a premium-priced cupcake, it sure as heck better taste better than something I could crank out at home. Another factor working against Crumbs’ cupcake was its bulk. Even with my extraordinary chompers, I could not manage a clean bite from top to bottom. Please note that Crumbs offers an even larger size than the one I ate for $3.75. That’s crazy talk, I say.

POWER RANKINGS

Sprinkles Cupcakes > Dots Cupcakes > Vanilla Bake Shop > Crumbs Bake Shop > Auntie Em’s Kitchen > Yummy Cupcakes > Violet’s Cakes.

Crumbs Bake Shop
9465 S. Santa Monica Boulevard
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
Phone: 310-550-9811

Crumbs Bake Shop on Urbanspoon

Crumbs Bakeshop in Los Angeles

L'abricot – Tijuana

5 p.m. I’m this close to wrapping up Day 1 of the Baja culinary blitz! Just one French brasserie, a fancy pants Baja Med dinner, and we’re finally moving on to Day 2. It was a whirlwind of an adventure at the time, and reliving it again as I write has been spectacular. Tijuana really does offer much more than donkeys disguised as zebras and cheap shots of tequila on Revolucion.

Our penultimate stop of the day brought us to L’abricot, a French eatery run by Maribel Villareal Sosa. Chef Sosa honed her culinary chops in Paris at Le Cordon Bleu and Ritz Escoffier. L’abricot is a charming spot offering classic French dishes and pastries.

Even though we’d endured eight meals prior, the restaurant’s terrific display of sugary creations had our group gawking as we walked out to our al fresco table. If there’s one thing I learned on this trip, it’s that the mind and the stomach are oftentimes at odds.

Chef Sosa prepared three dainty bites, including a poached quail egg with a Dijon vinaigrette (left), crème brûlée (right, top), and French onion soup (right, bottom). I wasn’t expecting a particularly strong showing from a French brasserie located in the heart of Tijuana, but each of the dishes was deftly prepared. Underneath the French onion soup’s thick blanket of cheese lay a deep, rich broth with caramelized onions. The crème brûlée, with its teeny tiny black vanilla specks and perfectly candied top, had me sold. L’abricot is the real deal.

Chef Sosa already had the group eating out of her hands, but to further seal the deal, she brought out plates of linzer torte cookies. As every glutton knows, two desserts are better than one.

L’abricot
1910 Antonio Caso Boulevard, Zona Río
Tijuana, BC, Mexico
Phone: 664-634-0643

BAJA BITES: 2 Days, 3 Cities, 18 Meals
Introduction > 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 7 > 8 > 9 > 10 > 11 > 12 > 13 > 14 > 15 > 16 > 17 > 18

Cien Años – Tijuana

4:20 p.m. Stop number seven on the Baja culinary blitz took our grossly over-fed group to Cien Años. The kitchen here is headed up by twenty-one-year-old Talia Nunes, who prepares Mexico City-style alta cocina using local ingredients. Cien Años’ philosophy is similar to La Diferencia, but with a greater emphasis on Baja flare and an absence of six-legged creatures on the menu.

It’s a crying shame that Cien Años was scheduled so late in the afternoon. By the time we walked through its colorfully appointed dining room, our bellies were full to the brim, while our minds were wiped-out from sensory overload.

Cien Años flight of light bites included nopales tostadas (left), octopus tostadas (right, top), and chili shrimp on crackers (right, bottom). H.C. and I were feeling so overwhelmed that we split each of these small botanas (snacks) in order to fit everything in.

Next, we were served a ceviche of salmon and mango in tortilla cups (left) and shooters of spicy almeja de chocolata (chocolate clam – right). Native to Mexico, the chocolate clam was undeniably fresh and had a texture so appealing that it made me forget that I was supposed to be sharing with H.C. The wonton chip was a curious, but ultimately fitting pairing.

The finale, a shredded smoked marlin salpicon, was plated with care, but we were sadly too stuffed to give it proper attention. On occasions like these, I wish I were blessed with four stomachs like a cow. Moo.

Cien Años
1407 Calle José María Velasco, Zona Río
Tijuana, BC, Mexico
Phone: 1-888-534-608

BAJA BITES: 2 Days, 3 Cities, 18 Meals
Introduction > 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 7 > 8 > 9 > 10 > 11 > 12 > 13 > 14 > 15 > 16 > 17 > 18

Peach Crostata

As someone who has never baked a classic, flaky crusted pie, the idea of preparing a crostata was appealing because its perfection lays in its imperfection. Whereas dimply or cracked crusts are seen as major cosmetic flaws on a pie, when it comes to crostatas, they’re essential for achieving a perfectly rustic product. To further add to their accessibility, Crostatas are “free-form,” and thus don’t require any special baking dishes or fancy crimping methods. All one needs is a simple baking sheet and and a trusty rolling pin.

This recipe comes from Frank Stitt’s Southern Table, a gorgeous cookbook filled with stories and recipes from Highlands Bar & Grill—my all-time favorite restaurant in Birmingham, Alabama. The recipe yields enough dough for two crusts, even though the directions only calls for one. According to Mr. Stitt, “You can prepare the dough well in advance and even freeze it with no loss of quality.” I’m looking forward to calling upon my extra dough later this summer when the abundance of ripened fruit just begs to be made into another crostata.

For the dough

  • 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1⁄4 cup sugar
  • 1 teaspoon Kosher salt
  • 1 1⁄4 sticks unsalted butter, cut into 1⁄2-inch cubes and chilled
  • 1⁄4 cup ice water

For the filling

  • 1⁄4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1⁄4 cup sugar
  • 4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
  • 2 pounds ripe peaches, pitted, peeled, and sliced into 3⁄4-inch-thick wedges
  • 1 large egg yolk, beaten with 1 teaspoon heavy cream for egg wash
  • 1 tablespoon coarse or granulated sugar for topping

Prepare the dough

Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse a few times to blend. Add the butter and pulse until it is the size of small peas, about 15 times. With the processor running, add the ice water and process for about 10 seconds; stop the processor before the dough comes together. Turn the dough out onto a sheet of waxed paper, divide the dough in half, and shape it into two disks. Wrap them in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. (The dough can be refrigerated for 2 days or frozen for up to 2 weeks; if it has been frozen, defrost the dough for 30 minutes at room temperature.)

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Roll one disk of dough into an 11-inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Transfer to a baking sheet. (Reserve the second disk of dough for another use.)

Prepare filling

Combine the flour and sugar in a small bowl. Blend in the butter with two knives until the mixture resembles coarse meal.

Place the peaches in the center of the dough circle on the baking sheet and top with the butter-sugar mixture. Begin draping the edges up and over, forming about 3 pleats. Crimp the pleats and press down to seal. Brush the pastry with the egg wash and sprinkle with the sugar.

Bake the tart for about 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool on a rack and serve slices with vanilla ice cream or crème anglaise.

Makes 6 servings.

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