Monthly Archive for December, 2009

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Sam Woo Barbecue Shop – Monterey Park

Published by Gastronomer on December 9, 2009 in BBQ, Chain / Multiple Locations, Chinese, Los Angeles, Monterey Park and Restaurant Review. 20 Comments

Not last night but the night before, a group of friends and I dined at Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant, a fancy pants Chinese banquet hall in the city of San Gabriel. Aware of Newport’s reputation for stellar seafood preparations, our party of twelve indulged in a prix fixe menu that included delicacies like sharks’ fin soup, sea cucumber, lobster, and crab. The spread was luxurious, plated neatly, and mostly delicious, but after forking over $32 to cover my portion of the tab, I couldn’t help thinking that we should’ve just gone to a simpler joint like Sam Woo.

I’ve always had an inkling that I preferred hole-in-the-wall Chinese eateries to grand restaurants oozing with ambiance, but wasn’t certain until my recent dabble in high-end Chinese cuisine. Granted, Sam Woo is a dingy chain, but there’s something about taut-skinned ducks glistening under florescent lights and service so indifferent that I feel like I’m doing the restaurant a favor by dining there that captures my heart and satisfies my gullet.

According to the restaurant’s superbly written Wikipedia entry, Sam Woo is not a person, but rather the romanization of the Cantonese pronunciation for “triple harmonies.” “Sam” meaning three and “Woo” meaning harmony. Triple harmonies is a reference to the principles of feng shui: heaven, earth, and humanity.

The first Sam Woo was opened by a Hong Kong immigrant in Los Angeles’ Chinatown in 1979. Since then, the chain has expanded into communities with sizable Chinese populations like Las Vegas, Toronto, and Southern California. There are currently over ten Sam Woo locations in North America.

The Astronomer and I were introduced to Sam Woo by a fellow named Ryan, a classmate of The Astronomer’s. I was excited to learn that Sam Woo specialized in roast fowl, because one of my fondest food memories is of eating roast goose in Hong Kong. I can recall savoring the juicy meat dipped in sweet plum sauce like it was yesterday.

Our group shared half a roast duck ($8.95) that arrived at the table chopped into manageable bits. The quality of the meat and seasonings didn’t match my Hong Kong experience, but the crispy skin, moist meat, and plentiful pockets of fat made everything all right. The plum sauce was worthy of sipping alone; it’s certainly not for everyone, but it definitely is for me.

While I normally frown upon chicken, Sam Woo’s Tung Kong-style salty chicken (half – $7.95) was very enjoyable, especially with a generous pour of scallion oil. The notes of ginger and garlic soaked into the skin, and the boiled texture of the meat reminded me of Hainanese chicken.

For the carbohydrate portion of our meal, we selected a seafood chow mein ($6.75) with scallops, fish, krab, shrimp and squid. For me, chow mein tastes best once the goopy sauce has properly soaked and softened the fried noodles, creating a clumpy delight.

Lastly, we shared a plate of salted and spiced deep-fried bean curd ($6.50). The tofu’s salty crust brought a great deal of flavor and a killer crunch, while the jalapenos and scallions gave the tofu an edge. Sam Woo executes this simple dish very well.

Now, if only it were acceptable to invite wedding guests to a barbecue shop rather than a formal banquet hall.

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Sam Woo Barbecue Shop
634 W. Garvey Avenue
Monterey Park, CA 91754
Phone: 626-289-4858

Eat My Blog Winter 2009: Doing Good Never Tasted So Delicious

Published by Gastronomer on December 6, 2009 in Eat My Blog, Food Event and Los Angeles. 24 Comments

I am thrilled to report that the first ever Eat My Blog charity bake sale was a tremendous success! The event was scheduled from 10 AM to 4 PM, but due to the wonderful turnout, we were largely sold out by 1 PM. When all was said and done, the Los Angeles food blogging community sold 1,500 treats and raised over $3,000 for the Los Angeles Regional Foodbank! Hip, hip, hooray!

Here’s now the fabulous day played out:

The Eat My Blog planning committee (Laurie, Diana, Anjali, and me), along with our chief supporter The Astronomer, arrived at Zeke’s Smokehouse two hours before game time. Before the crowds rolled in, we did what needed to be done—platters were dolled up with cute wrapping paper, donated boxes were assembled, and each treat was given a hand-crafted name tag and price.

Bakers dropped off their wares late Friday night at committee members’ homes and Saturday morning at Zeke’s. As the boxes of goodies were piled atop one another and the room began to smell of sugary sweetness, it finally hit me that after months of planning, Eat My Blog was becoming a reality.

About an hour before showtime, we started to lay out the irresistible spread. Thirty-six square feet of surface area wasn’t enough to display all of the wonderful creations we received. The extras were stashed underneath the tables; we replenished each platter as supplies ran low.

From bacon-wrapped bread sticks to butterscotch budino, the diversity, quality, and uniqueness of the treats on hand was phenomenal. Each participating blogger put a lot of heart, soul, and time into crafting a delight that would please the eye and rock the taste buds.

Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf served coffee and hot chocolate at the event, with all proceeds donated to the Foodbank. Kim of Ravenous Couple and H.C. of L.A. and O.C. Foodventures lent a hand to Ingrid, the barista on duty, throughout the day.

The hours between 10 and 12:30 were a blur. The mad rush of customers and rapid disappearance of sweets and savories was nothing short of exhilarating. Before we knew it, every single item was sold, even the box of sub sandwiches that Jersey Mike’s randomly donated at the eleventh hour.

The Eat My Blog committee would like to extend heartfelt thank yous to the Los Angeles food blogging community (a full list of participating bloggers here), Zeke’s Smokehouse, JS2 Communications, Los Angeles Times, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, Challenge Dairy (the official butter sponsor of Eat My Blog), Kiss My Bundt, Vanilla Bake Shop, Susina Bakery, Joan’s on Third, 20th Century Fox, and last but certainly not least, everyone who came out to the bake sale and bought a treat or ten—we couldn’t have done it without you all. Check out the complete set of photos via Flickr.

Eat My Blog. Summer 2010. Get ready.

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Not a Los Angeles resident? Bring Eat My Blog to your city! Shoot me an email at cathy37 [at] gmail [dot] com if you’re interested in replicating this event in your town.

Ludo Bites 3.0 at Royal/T – Los Angeles (Culver City)

Published by Gastronomer on December 2, 2009 in Asian Fusion, Culver City, French, Los Angeles, Media Event (this meal was free) and Restaurant Review. 28 Comments

He’s baaaack! And dare I say, even better than before. After a three-month hiatus, Chef Ludo Lefebvre has returned with the third installment of Ludo Bites, his highly-anticipated guerrilla-style pop-up restaurant. [Read about the second installment here.] This time around, Chef Ludo has teamed up with Culver City’s Royal/T—the city’s first Japanese-style cosplay café.

The thirteen-day engagement officially begins tonight, but the cool cats at Fooddigger managed to arrange an exclusive pre-grand opening tasting. I was fortunate enough to snag a seat, granting me the opportunity to sample Ludo’s bites 24-hours before the general public. It’s no secret that being first feels good. Real good.

Whereas Ludo’s former haunt was a casual neighborhood eatery, Royal/T is a multifaceted space with a café, shop, and art gallery. The art-covered walls and funky maid get-ups give Ludo Bites 3.0 a deliciously different vibe.

Currently on display at Royal/T is “In Bed Together,” an exhibition curated by Jane Glassman. The collection features 50 works by 50 different artists that have been selected by 50 art professionals. “In Bed Together” showcases an array of different art forms including paintings, drawings, mixed media, sculptures, videos, photography, and performance art.

After sipping some bubbly and chatting with my blogging brethren, we were seated in a glass-walled room toward the back of the gallery. In addition to the usual tables, chairs, and place settings, the room contained a curious-looking white tent. Understanding the heartache that food bloggers experience in dimly lit dining settings, Ludo’s wife and right arm (wo)man Krissy invested in a photography light box! Amazing times a zillion.

Due to the diminutive size of the kitchen, Chef Ludo and his sous chefs plated each course within the gallery.

The first of nine courses was a pretty little dish of barely cooked scallops, brown butter, pineapple, and a mysterious “black powder.” Now, this is the kind of food I love to eat—light, refreshing, and complexly flavored. Props to “The Glutster” for figuring out that squid ink made the “black powder” possible.

Next, we moved on to a bowl of warm bread soup accented with a Gruyère marshmallow and a beauteously poached egg. Made from Bread Bar’s rustic loaf, the soup tasted toasty and familiar. The egg and “cheese” jazzed up the bowl from top to bottom.

The third course, a foie gras beignet, nearly did me in with its unparalleled richness. Fried dough is naturally quite decadent—add to it two full ounces of Hudson Valley foie gras and you’ve got a downright lethal combination. The celery root remoulade tried its darndest to reel in the dish’s intensity but couldn’t quite manage to strike a balance.

The foie gras beignet was appropriately followed by a simple squid preparation featuring chorizo oil, kimchi puree, eggplant “paper,” and pickled red onions. I ate this one with my fingers, swiping the squid in each of the sauces and biting off a piece of “paper” to finish. The kimchi’s kick and the squid’s supple texture were my favorite components.

Drawing inspiration from his new space at Royal/T, Chef Ludo created a Japanese udon dish with veal, kombu dashi (kelp stock), enoki mushrooms, and a sesame seed miso paste. The deeply savory broth enveloped the entire dish, creating an outstanding noodle soup experience. Chef Ludo’s talents aren’t limited solely to French and modern American cuisines; this man can do Asian cooking too!

For the fish portion of our meal, we were served a delicate fillet of wild striped bass with garden vegetables and aioli. Whereas Chef Ludo’s creations are usually quite bold in the flavor department, this one was subdued. The only item that really popped on the plate were the florets of purple cauliflower.

The final savory course of the evening was a superbly tender hunk of hangar steak coupled with crunchy escargots, baby corn, bok choy, and a black olive mole. Everything on the plate tasted fantastic, but it was the parsley-crusted escargots that I was particularly fond of.

Instead of a traditional cheese course, Chef Ludo prepared a tart using Fourme d’Ambert, one of France’s oldest cheeses with pungent notes similar to blue. The flaky tart was paired with pears bathed in beet juice and a swathe of honey balsamic.

The final course of the evening was a chocolate cake floating in an ocean of frothy coconut sorbet. While I’m usually not a chocolate dessert lover, this one managed to woo me in with its refreshingly light flavors and textures. Pink peppercorns and a coffee caramel provided the finishing touches.

Thank you to FoodDigger (Brian, Marshal, and Will), Ludo, and Krissy for an amazing feast! And thank you to my fellow gastronomers for providing great company: Caroline of Caroline on Crack, Kevin of Kevin Eats, Danny of Kung Food Panda, Elina Shatkin from the LA Times, Fiona of Gourmet Pigs, H.C. of LA and OC Foodventures, Javier of Teenage Glutster, Josh of Food GPS, Lindsay William-Ross from LAist, Liz of Food She Thought, Sonja of The Active Foodie, and Rachel Hirschfeld, of Les Dames d’Escoffier and Petriarch.com.

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Ludo Bites at Royal/T
8910 Washington Boulevard
Culver City, CA 90232
Phone: 310-559-6300

Zeke’s Smokehouse – Los Angeles (West Hollywood)

Published by Gastronomer on December 1, 2009 in BBQ, Chain / Multiple Locations, Los Angeles, Media Event (this meal was free), Restaurant Review, Southern and West Hollywood. 13 Comments

I swung by Zeke’s Smokehouse in West Hollywood last week to scope out the space for this Saturday’s Eat My Blog charity bake sale. I was planning on staying only a short while to take care of logistics and details, but the wondrous smells of slow roasting meats lured me into a booth and tied a napkin around my neck. Before I knew it, I was sitting down to big ‘ol plate of pulled pork sliders with tangy sauce dribbling down my chin. Barbecue is kind of magical.

The original Zeke’s Smokehouse was opened in Montrose by chefs Leonard Schwartz (formerly of Maple Drive) and Michael Rosen (formerly of Reign), and their partners Ron and Kirk Gelsinger of Gelsinger Meats in 2002. The West Hollywood location opened in 2004. With Zeke’s Smokehouse, the two fine dining veterans aimed to bring the type of authentic barbecue usually found in ‘cuing capitals like Kansas City, Memphis, and Greensboro to Los Angeles.

The restaurant’s vibe is a casual blend of down home comfort and West Hollywood cool. With its exposed brick walls, vintage aluminum furniture, and homey plaid tabletops, Zeke’s sleeks up classic southern style nicely. The menu features everything under the smoke-able sun, from Texas-style brisket and beef ribs to Kansas City-style spare ribs and Memphis-style baby back ribs.

It is absolutely essential that all southern meals, even those being taken above the Mason Dixon, begin with an array of deep fried foods. The Frito Misto platter ($7.95), which comes with hush puppies, sweet potato fries, and onion rings, really got the Zeke’s party started. The restaurant’s resident fryer did a fantastic job making sure that each item was perfectly crisp and light on the grease factor. I highly recommend dredging the onion rings and fries in plenty of ranch dressing and smothering the hush puppies with a healthy smear of honey butter. If you bat your eyelashes and pull off a sweet smile, fried okra might appear on your Frito Misto platter as well.

For my main course, I went with a trio of sliders ($11.95). From the list of available meats, I chose pulled pork, beef brisket, and ham ham ham ham ham (pronounced like Sisqo’s “thong, thong, thong, thong, thong”) with a side of collard greens.

Since pork is my very best pal, the ham and pulled pork sliders were loved the most. The beef brisket came in a very close third. Unlike the squishy buns on barbecue sandwiches I’ve eaten in Alabama, Zeke’s buns had a bit more oomph and a nice, toasty exterior. Though not a ten on the authenticity scale, it was a fine improvement in my mind.

To accompany my trio of sliders was a trio of made-from-scratch sauces. The reddish-hued one brought slight heat and paired well with the beef brisket, while the Kansas City-style brown sauce was a little sweeter and went fine with the ham. My favorite combination was the Carolina mustard sauce with the pulled pork. The collard greens did their best to sway my meal in a healthy direction, which is all I could have really asked of them.

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Zeke’s Smokehouse
7100 Santa Monica Boulevard
West Hollywood, CA 90046
Phone: 323-850-9353