Monthly Archive for March, 2010
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gas•tron•o•my is as much about photography as it is about words. As a way to intertwine these two essential components, I’ve uploaded my entire photo archive onto Flickr and included a relevant link with each shot. It’s hard to believe that I’ve taken over 16,000 photos since the summer of 2007!
The best way to explore this sea of food porn is by “collection.” China, New York City, Mexico, Gourmet Food Trucks, Recipes, Vietnam Street Food, and Food Events are a few of my favorites. I hope this provides an enjoyable and useful complement to the content on this site. Dig in!
For every KyoChon and Pappa Rich that’s managed to integrate successfully into the American fast food landscape, there’s a Hollys Coffee to balance things out. While I still believe that Korea has the world’s tastiest chains, not all are created equal. Whereas the aforementioned eateries have mastered their signature dishes—fried chicken and buttery buns, respectively—Hollys Coffee can’t quite seem to execute a decent Belgian waffle.
In addition to “fresh coffee [and] romantic space,” Hollys Coffee promises authentic Belgian waffles from the eastern city of Liège. I encountered my first Liège waffle not in Belgium, but in Philadelphia. Whereas waffles I’d eaten prior were fluffy things made with a loose batter poured onto a hot iron, these dough-based creations were dense, chewy, caramelized, and embedded with beads of pearl sugar. Served warm and without maple syrup, a Liège waffle was the perfect sweet for an afternoon pick-me-up.
There were half a dozen waffles sitting idle behind a glass case when I walked into the shop. After confirming with the person behind the counter that I’d be receiving a fresh one, I placed my order and took a seat. Two minutes later, a waffle tucked into a paper bag arrived.
Even before I took a bite, the waffle’s tepid temperature and limp appearance signaled that I had been duped. I should’ve known better than to seek out Belgian fare at a Korean establishment, but I figured that if a Japanese chain could execute a decent French cream puff then a Korean one could pull off a Belgium waffle. Alas, my logic was flawed.
Now, where can I find a legit Liège waffle in Los Angeles?
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Hollys Coffee
3450 W 6th Street, Ste. 111
Los Angeles, CA 90020
Phone: 213-389-4553
Located on the corner of De Lacey and Green in Old Pasadena, Pappa Rich is the first American outlet of a wildly popular chain of Korean bakeries called Pappa Roti.
Opened late last year, the shop has an undeniable log cabin vibe due to its bevy of wooden furniture and accents. The air smells strongly of mocha. Pappa Rich’s aesthetic is reminiscent of Tous Le Jour, a competing chain of Korean bakeries that The Astronomer and I adored while living in Saigon.
After receiving our order of Pappa Rich’s famous buns ($2.99), we stole two seats and tore right in. As promised by Jonathan Gold, the buns were “fat, warm, [and] breast-shaped”—my three favorite qualities in a baked good.
The Astronomer and I were both taken aback by how gloriously soft, crisp, and inexplicably airy the bun was. Best of all, toward the center was a hidden pat of melted butter that melded decadently with the pastry. Sweet, savory, and rich, this bun was indeed the “Father of All Buns.”
Out of curiosity and hunger, The Astronomer also ordered a white chocolate sugar cookie with strawberry cream cheese spread ($2.75). The cookie was tougher than undergraduate work at Swarthmore, while the frosting was ice cold. Both The Astronomer and I tried our darndest to take a clean bite from top to bottom, but it was a mission impossible.
Even though the sandwich cookie was poorly constructed and practically inedible, I will be making my way back to Pappa Rich for another taste of the “Father of All Buns.” Korea has the tastiest chain restaurants in the world, wouldn’t you say?
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Pappa Rich
100 W. Green Street
Pasadena, CA 91105
Phone: 626-440-0009
In between consulting with a hair and make up gal who charged $400 for her services and visiting a bridal store that threatened a $100 rush fee for simple alterations, I gladly dug into some (relatively) cheap hot dogs at The Slaw Dogs. After being gouged left and right, the gourmet wiener shop felt like a sanctuary where brides-to-be could be properly fed without being nickel and dimed. What a relief.
When I arrived at noon to meet up with Pat of Eating LA, the restaurant was packed to capacity with lines snaking out the door. The positive LA Times write up and Jonathan Gold’s endorsement must be bringing in the crowds because the location isn’t stellar. North Lake is no Colorado Boulevard.
The sky’s the limit when it comes to dressing up Slaw’s array of all-beef, natural casing, turkey, veggie, and kosher dogs. On hand are forty-five custom toppings including roasted garlic, pasilla peppers, kimchi, and truffle oil. I was mildly tempted to build my own dog, but decided otherwise because too many choices make me anxious. [See: "Paradox of Choice" by Barry Schwartz.] In addition to fancy hot dogs, the restaurant also serves salad bowls and burgers.
Pat ordered a basket of Belgian Style Fries ($2.99) to pair with her dog. The skinny spuds proved to be fine vehicles for the gourmet dips (roasted garlic mayonnaise, chipotle mayonnaise, Sriracha aioli) that owner Ray Byrne brought to our table. Eaten alone, the fries tasted under-seasoned.
My beer battered onion rings ($3.99) were bogged down by excess oil, but nicely flavored and slightly crunchy. The rings were “light, crispy, and not too oily” on Abby of Pleasure Palate’s recent visit, so it’s a distinct possibility that I got a botched batch.
Pat settled on the “Cali” market dog ($5.49) with kumquat chutney, habanero pickled onions, grilled onions, and curry ketchup. She chose a natural casing “Snap Dog” to go with the market-driven fixings. A hefty punch of spice was the first to register, followed by a jolt of raw onions. The dog wasn’t as snappy as we had hoped, but the loveliness of the kumquat chutney made up for it. The bun, on the other hand, left a lot to be desired.
Pat’s son thoroughly enjoyed the Picnic Dog ($4.99), which included barbecue sauce, two onion rings, potato salad, and a pickle spear. He was pleasantly surprised by how well the tangy sauce and goopy potato salad gelled together in between the flimsy buns. Compared to The Astronomer’s nightmarish Lord of the Rings hot dog at Pink’s, this one looked much more palatable and manageable.
I went with the Thai Slaw Dog ($6.59) with chicken sausage, spicy peanut-coconut satay dressing, cilantro-carrot slaw, crushed peanuts, and Sriracha aioli. The entire package was straight out of South East Asia, and it was mostly delightful. The chicken sausage surprised us with its oomph, while the slaw was zesty and fresh; however, the lightly toasted bun once again left us disappointed.
Lastly, we split the A.B.L.T Dog ($6.29) with double bacon, chopped romaine, tomato, avocado, and roasted garlic aioli. We loved the ripe avocado and savory bacon, but desired a more pungent garlic aioli.
From innovative fixins to tip-top customer service, there’s a lot to like about The Slaw Dogs. However, the bread situation is really holding it back. If I might make a suggestion, a custom-made brioche bun from Euro Pane would solve the problem deliciously. Until then, Italian sausages on the grill will be my go-to source for a local wiener fix.
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The Slaw Dogs
720 North Lake Avenue
Pasadena, CA 91104
Phone: 626-808-9777
