Monthly Archive for December, 2010

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Robata Jinya – Los Angeles

Published by Gastronomer on December 20, 2010 in Chain / Multiple Locations, Japanese, Los Angeles, Mid-City and Restaurant Review. 16 Comments

Do you know what tastes heavenly after a long day of selling sweets on one’s feet? A steaming bowl of porky ramen. The noodling tradition began this past summer when the Eat My Blog committee stopped by the Yatai Ramen pop-up at BreadBar to fuel up after the event. As we buried our heads into the rich and savory bowls, satisfying our bodies’ every craving with each slurp, we vowed to make this a permanent ritual.

We kept our promise to ourselves and stopped into Robata Jinya for a bite after the most recent bake sale. According to the restaurant’s website, Robata Jinya first opened its doors 40 years ago in Japan. This Third Street outlet comes from the same owner who oversees seven restaurants in Japan and one in Hong Kong.

Without reservations, our party of five was seated along the robata bar toward the back of the restaurant. The bar was overflowing with a gorgeous collection of produce, most of which would meet its fate upon the charcoal grill by the end of the night.

To get the robata and ramen party started, I ordered some eryngii mushrooms ($2.40). The plate was delivered on a long wooden plank—one of the exciting perks of dining bar-side.

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Sweet Lady Jane – Los Angeles (Santa Monica)

Published by Gastronomer on December 18, 2010 in Bakery, Chain / Multiple Locations, Dessert, Los Angeles, Media Event (this meal was free), Restaurant Review and Santa Monica. 4 Comments

Following last weekend’s Artisanal L.A. event, my girlfriend Laurie and I grabbed a bite to eat at the newest Sweet Lady Jane bakery and cafe in Santa Monica. Settling in at a cozy sidewalk table and basking in the unseasonably warm afternoon, we felt a little like those lucky ladies who lunch. Oh, maybe one day…

Jane Lockhart opened the original Sweet Lady Jane on Melrose Avenue in 1988 after growing tired of store-bought desserts that tasted “too sweet” and “too commercial.” Ms. Lockhart’s firm commitment to baking with only the finest imported chocolate, the freshest butter and cream, and the highest quality in-season fruits has garnered her a bevy of fans, including the chicks from The Hills! [Careful, the link will take you to a very good episode.]

The Santa Monica shop, which debuted a few weeks before our visit, serves a selection of sweets similar to the original location—cookies, brownies, lemon squares, and eye-poppingly beautiful layer cakes.

As guests of the restaurant this afternoon, we were treated to light bites to start and decadent slices of cake to finish. Still feeling stuffed from the goodness we sampled at Artisanal L.A., both Laurie and I ordered the half sandwich and small salad combo ($10.50). Laurie chose a classic grilled cheese sandwich with cheddar, tomatoes, and sourdough, and a Sweet Lady Jane salad on the side.

Unless I’m dining with The Astronomer or my mom, I usually don’t steal more than a single bite from my dining companion’s plate. However, I had to make an exception for this fabulously cheesy and well-balanced sandwich. Who can resist toasty sourdough paired with oozing cheese? Certainly not me. Thanks for sharing, Laurie.

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Sugarfish by Sushi Nozawa – Los Angeles (Downtown)

Published by Gastronomer on December 16, 2010 in Chain / Multiple Locations, Downtown, Japanese, Los Angeles and Restaurant Review. 12 Comments

The first time The Astronomer and I dined at Sugarfish by Sushi Nozawa, we were guests of the restaurant and were treated to a magnificent experience—the fish was impeccable and service was a dream. While I could have written a glowing review based on my initial visit, I wanted to dine here a second time to make sure that my meal wasn’t an anomaly reserved for blogger-types wielding unusually large cameras.

The Astronomer and I returned to the restaurant late last week with our friends Andrew and Miri. We were excited to introduce them to Chef Kazunori Nozawa‘s “Trust Me” style of sushi that has made him a notorious character in the L.A. sushi scene. In Chef Nozawa’s book, there is no greater offense than serving mayo-laden rolls heavy with bells and whistles. Instead, he prepares pristine fishes, minimally fussed and buttery on the tongue.

With three branches across the city, Sugarfish aims to bring an authentic Nozawa experience to the discerning masses. The three “Trust Me” menus are priced markedly lower than a meal at the chef’s original Studio City outlet. Sugarfish is able to keep prices in check by taking advantage of the chef’s personal contacts with fish vendors, preparing the fish efficiently in a kitchen rather than behind a sushi bar, streamlining the menu to reduce waste, and serving diners at breakneck speed.

Jonathan Gold wrote back in 2008 that “the elapsed time between the second you sit down and the moment you are handed your check is about 15 minutes, 20 tops. Sugarfish is reasonably priced for sushi, but per minute, it may be one of the most expensive restaurants in town.” While our experience wasn’t that hurried, Mr. Gold makes a very valid point.

Pricing and pacing aside, the quality of food at Sugarfish is truly unparalleled. Every cut of fish served in the restaurant is handpicked by Chef Nozawa, fresh rice is made every 30 minutes, and all the sauces are prepared from scratch. Now, if they didn’t serve it up so gosh darn quickly, I’d be in heaven.

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Bouchon Bakery – Las Vegas (The Venetian)

Published by Gastronomer on December 15, 2010 in Bakery, Dessert, Las Vegas and Restaurant Review. 9 Comments

After lunching at Lotus of Siam, The Astronomer and I explored two new additions to the Las Vegas strip—the City Center and the Aria Resort and Casino. It seems to me that Vegas developers will not sleep until every casino has its own Gucci outlet and Wolfgang Puck eatery. What a yawn. After walking nearly the entire length of The Strip, The Astronomer and I were due for an energizing snack. We stopped by Bouchon Bakery located inside The Venetian for a quick pre-dinner bite.

While I’ve eaten at Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry and Ad Hoc, this was my first time visiting his Parisian boulangerie-inspired bakery. Tucked beside the theater and steps away from the casino floor, Bouchon Bakery’s atmosphere was decidedly uninspiring. The air smelled of cigarette smoke mingled with air conditioning, and not a trace of the aroma of freshly baked pastries could be detected. Considering the resources available at a casino like this, the bakery felt more like an ordinary snack bar than a temple of baked goods. On an upbeat note, I really dug The Phantom of the Opera tunes piping out of the speakers. I bet they don’t have that in Yountville!

Since it was Halloween weekend, quite a few of the treats were dressed up in holiday garb. I picked out a pumpkin-shaped TKO—Thomas Keller Oreo ($3.25). According to the bakery’s website, Oreo cookies are one of Thomas Keller’s favorite snacks. His upscale version employs a chocolate sable cookie dough and a white chocolate ganache filling.

The Keller-fied Oreo was a total knock out. The cookie’s texture was spot on, while the cream was appealingly smooth. A slight touch of salt kept the Oreo’s sweetness in check. If there’s one thing that Thomas Keller is known for, “it’s all about finesse.”

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Artisanal L.A.: Five Home Grown Gift Ideas

Published by Gastronomer on December 13, 2010 in Food Event and Los Angeles. 3 Comments

Since I think of gift giving as an opportunity to impose my values upon others, it should come as no surprise that my loved ones usually receive one of three things: a food-related book, a restaurant gift certificate, or something edible. I make adjustments here and there for those not as food oriented as me, but for the most part, these are my go-to gifts.

At this past weekend’s Artisanal LA event, I managed to cross several people off my list thanks to the wonderful selection of local, sustainable, and handmade edibles for sale. These gifts not only taste great, but they also support the local economy and small-scale producers. Win-win, I say! Here’s a list of five fabulous food gifts and the talented vendors behind them…

The first two people that I had the pleasure of meeting at the event were Debra and Stephanie Shaiken. The mother-daughter duo run an up-and-coming pie business in Santa Monica. Crust by Stephanie Jayne specializes in homey and comforting creations that are executed with skill and refinement.

I tasted three of Crust’s pies this afternoon including the Fleur de Sel Caramel Tart (dark chocolate ganache, salted caramel, cracker brittle), the Missouri Butter Pie (a St. Louis classic), and the Campfire S’more Pie (milk chocolate ganache, homemade graham cracker, toasted from scratch marshmallows). All three were terrific, but my sweet-salty loving taste buds couldn’t get enough of the Fleur de Sel Caramel Tart. These 9-inch pies ($25) would be a great addition to any holiday spread and also make fine hostess gifts.

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