Monthly Archive for January, 2011

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Lardon Truck – Los Angeles

Lardon Truck - Los Angeles

As luck would have it, on the very first day of the new year, the Lardon Truck parked its wheels a short drive from my home in Pasadena. The Astronomer and I had spent the morning hours stalking Paula Deen and gawking at floats at the Rose Parade, so when lunch time rolled around, we were more than ready for a big hit of bacon-inspired fare. Never one to miss out on good food finds, my mother arrived in town just in time to join us on our first truck chase of 2011. Party of three, please.

Lardon Truck - Los Angeles

Launched last fall, the Lardon Truck is the city’s first mobile venture showcasing the versatility and deliciousness of bacon. Jeremiah Crowley, one of Lardon’s co-owners, was on board the truck when we visited. What I really liked about Jerry was how he interacted with diners beyond just taking orders. He playfully bantered with the crowd and even asked bacon-related trivia questions during our meal. To increase audience participation, Jerry handed out bacon-scented car fresheners for prizes! This was certainly the best customer service I’d ever encountered at a truck.

Lardon Truck - Los Angeles

The first item served up were the bacon pancakes with bacon bourbon maple syrup ($5.50). Embedded into the pancakes was a generous sprinkling of smoky bacon confetti—just the right amount to assure that each bite was both fluffy and meaty. The syrup’s sweetness tied everything together into one tasty package.

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GIVEAWAY: The America’s Test Kitchen Healthy Family Cookbook Signed by Christopher Kimball

This all-purpose cookbook from America’s Test Kitchen delivers 800 foolproof recipes for healthier everyday fare, from breakfast dishes and appetizers to pasta, meat, chicken, desserts, and more. Additionally, you’ll learn tips and techniques that deliver nutrients without compromising taste or texture. And learn to incorporate more vegetables and whole grains into all sorts of everyday dishes with easy recipes such as Hearty Ten Vegetable Stew, Chicken Baked in Foil with Fennel, Carrots, and Orange, Stuffed Acorn Squash with Barley, Multigrain Pizza Dough, Fusilli with Kale and White Beans, and Barley Risotto with Roasted Butternut Squash. With this book in hand, you’ll be able to make simple changes in how you shop, eat, and cook; changes that will deliver a big payoff to you and your family’s health.

The America’s Test Kitchen Healthy Family Cookbook Giveaway

I have one signed copy of The America’s Test Kitchen Healthy Family Cookbook to give away to ONE lucky gas•tron•o•my reader. To qualify for the giveaway, please leave a comment with your name and email address in the appropriate fields, and your answer to the following question: What’s your favorite vegetable and how do you like it prepared? Only one entry per person, please. I’ll be using a random number generator to choose the winner. All entries must be received by Sunday, January 23, 2011 at midnight PST. Good luck!

Saw’s BBQ – Birmingham

Saw's BBQ - Birmingham

For our final restaurant outing of 2010, The Astronomer treated me to a meat fest of smoky proportions at Saw’s BBQ, a relative newcomer to the Birmingham barbecue scene. Joining us for the joyous occasion were select members of the Indian Springs School class of 2003.

Saw's BBQ - Birmingham

The man behind Saw’s BBQ is Mike Wilson, a North Carolina native with a diverse culinary background. After graduating from Johnson & Wales University in Colorado, he returned home to work for Dean & Deluca. He found himself in Birmingham a few years later after scoring a cheffing position in the test kitchen of Cooking Light magazine.

Saw's BBQ - Birmingham

Chef Wilson initially began experimenting with making sauces and smoking meat as a hobby. After sharing his North Carolina-inspired creations with coworkers at Cooking Light, word quickly spread throughout the local food community, and demand for his sauce and meats caught fire.

Opened in 2009, Saw’s BBQ is a tribute to the great North Carolina barbecue tradition that the chef grew up eating. By the way, “Saw” is an acronym for “Sorry Ass Wilson,” the chef’s not-so-pleasant high school nickname.

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Barley Risotto with Butternut Squash and Fried Sage

Barley Risotto with Butternut Squash and Fried Sage

Even with well over fifty diverse cookbooks lining my bookshelf, I keep returning to same tome time and again—The America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook. I love how the folks at America’s Test Kitchen are meticulous in their recipe research and can always be depended on for fool-proof dishes accompanied by crystal clear instructions. It’s this guarantee of deliciousness that keeps me coming back for everything from cinnamon rolls to roasted beets to Thanksgiving turkey.

Late last year, America’s Test Kitchen released a companion book to my beloved three-ring bound bible: The America’s Test Kitchen Healthy Family Cookbook. I am forever on the search for dishes that pack a mean nutritional punch without sacrificing taste, so I knew this book would be a keeper.

The first “healthy” dish that I tackled was barley risotto with butternut squash—the fried sage was my own not-so-virtuous addition. Using barley in place of arborio rice, this version boasts more protein and fiber than traditional risotto without forgoing any of the dish’s characteristic creaminess. I appreciated how the hearty grain also added a toothy bite and nuttiness to each spoonful. Now, if only the Test Kitchen’s clever scientists could figure out how to reduce the amount of time spent behind the stove. Then, this recipe would truly be perfect.

For risotto

  • 1 medium butternut squash (about 2 pounds), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2 inch cubes (about  3 1/2 cups)
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • 4 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
  • 4 cups water
  • 1 onion, minced
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 1/2 cups pearled barley
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 3/4 cups grated Parmesan
  • 1 teaspoon minced fresh sage
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

For fried sage

  • 10 sage leaves
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • Coarse salt

Make risotto

Barley Risotto with Butternut Squash and Fried Sage

Adjust an oven rack to the upper middle position and heat the oven to 450 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss the squash with 2 teaspoons of the oil, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper and spread out over the prepared baking sheet. Roast the squash until tender and golden brown, about 30 minutes; set aside until needed.

Meanwhile, bring the broth and water to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting and cover to keep warm.

Barley Risotto with Butternut Squash and Fried Sage

Combine the onion and 1 teaspoon of the oil in a large saucepan. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Stir in the barley, increase the heat to medium, and cook, stirring often, until lightly toasted and aromatic, about 4 minutes. Stir in the wine and continue to cook, stirring often, until the wine has been completely absorbed, about 2 minutes.

Stir in 3 cups of the warm broth and half of the roasted squash. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is absorbed and the bottom of the pan is dry, 22 to 25 minutes. Stir in 2 more cups of the warm broth and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is absorbed and the bottom of the pan is dry, 15 to 18 minutes longer.

Continue to cook the risotto, stirring often and adding 1/2 cup of the remaining broth at a time as needed to keep the pan bottom from becoming dry (about every 4 minutes), until the grains of barley are cooked through but still somewhat firm in the center, 15 to 20 minutes longer.

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Saigon Noodle House – Birmingham

Saigon Noodle House - Birmingham

Tucked between a mattress store and a Jenny Craig weight loss outlet is Saigon Noodle House, arguably the best Vietnamese restaurant in the Birmingham metropolitan area. At one point there were three Vietnamese restaurants in town, but Phở Hoàng threw in the towel sometime last year, so these days it’s just Saigon Noodle House and Phở Quê Hương meeting the needs of Birmingham’s Vietnamese food seekers.

I’ve always been a little curious about how Vietnamese food is translated down south, but with so many mouthwatering barbecue shacks to explore, not to mention Frank Stitt’s various haute little eateries, seeking out a cuisine readily available in California was low on my list of priorities.

Saigon Noodle House - Birmingham

During our most recent trip to Birmingham, The Astronomer made a lunch date with his high school friends at Saigon Noodle House. I tried to persuade my dear husband to reconsider, but everyone was in the noodling mood, so off to the Noodle House we went.

To start, our group ordered a variety of fresh and fried rolls. The fresh ones were served with hoisin sauce topped with crushed peanuts, while the fried ones were served with a goopy nước chấm.

Saigon Noodle House - Birmingham

I liked how both the nem nướng and gỏi cuốn tasted freshly made and contained fried shards of Chinese egg roll wrappers through the center, a la Brodard. My only wish was that the rolls had less iceberg filler and more fresh herbs.

According to The Astronomer, the fried chả giò (not pictured) were “a typical unspectacular American specimen.” Truth be told though, we’ve only had one really outstanding chả giò stateside, and that was at a Cambodian restaurant in Boston.

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