Monthly Archive for June, 2011

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Rhubarb and Raspberry Crostata

Published by Gastronomer on June 18, 2011 in Dessert, Pie + Tart and Recipe. 6 Comments

As I was shopping for produce at my local branch of Super King, I spied a stack of ruby rhubarb stalks out of the corner of my eye. On impulse, I grabbed a bag and quickly filled it with a half dozen stems. I had no clue at the moment what would become of this seasonal booty, but I was excited about the possibility of a pie, a crumble, or maybe even jam.

Additionally, I was stoked about working with rhubarb from prep to plate. I have consumed plenty of the stuff over the years, but never cooked with it in my kitchen. I find that working with a raw ingredient yields invaluable insights that mere eating cannot provide. Like, I had no idea that unadulterated rhubarb tasted so wonderfully snappy and tart! It sort of reminded me of a fruitier upright elephant ear.

After coming home from the grocery store and going through my cookbooks, food magazines, and various web resources, I settled on this rhubarb and raspberry crostata recipe from Karen Demasco of Locanda Verde in New York City. It appeared in last month’s Bon Appétit and received rave reviews from those who had made it—three-and-a-half “forks” to be exact.

Both the dough and the filling came together smoothly and easily, and the finished crostata brought a great balance of flavors. The crust was a buttery, nutty, and tender blend, while the filling didn’t drown the fruit in unnecessary sugar. The Astronomer and I both appreciated how the natural flavors of the raspberries and rhubarb shone through.

I love it when unplanned market purchases turn out so nicely.

For crust

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cubed
1 large egg
1 tablespoon whole milk

For filling

1/4 cup cornstarch
4 cups 1/2″-thick slices rhubarb, approximately 6 stalks
1 6 ounce container fresh raspberries
1/3 cup sugar
1 large egg, beaten
Turbinado sugar

Make crust

Combine both flours, sugar, and salt in a processor; blend for 5 seconds. Add butter; pulse until butter is reduced to pea-size pieces. Whisk egg and milk in a small bowl to blend; add to processor and pulse until moist clumps form.

Gather dough into a ball; flatten into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap; chill at least 1 1/2 hours. The crust can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled.

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MB Post – Los Angeles (Manhattan Beach)

Published by Gastronomer on June 15, 2011 in Los Angeles, Manhattan Beach, Media Event (this meal was free), New American, Restaurant Review and Small Plates. 5 Comments

It usually takes a lot of convincing to get me to dine anywhere west of Hollywood on a weeknight, but all it took was a straightforward invitation for me to make the trek out to Manhattan Beach Post to try Chef David LeFevre’s food. LeFevre is a former industrial engineer who honed his cooking chops under Charlie Trotter before earning a Michelin star as the executive chef at Water Grill in downtown Los Angeles. M.B. Post is his first solo venture.

Chef LeFevre has ditched fine dining for family-style fare at his new beach-front digs. The rustic, soulful, and communal dishes coming out of the kitchen reflect the style of food that the chef personally enjoys preparing and eating.

Housed inside the town’s former post office, the setting is casual and boisterous. The Astronomer and I dined here on a Monday night, along with our friends Lien, Kat, and Christina, and the space was impressively packed. It turns out that the Manhattan Beach crowd was hungry for a “social house.”

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Brunch at Farmshop – Los Angeles (Santa Monica)

Published by Gastronomer on June 13, 2011 in Breakfast / Brunch, Los Angeles, Restaurant Review and Santa Monica. 9 Comments

I knew I’d love Farmshop long before I officially sat down for a meal there. Jeff Cerciello, the restaurant’s “Culinary Director,” spent thirteen years with the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group and most notably assisted with the launch and operation of Ad Hoc, one of my favorite restaurants of all time. We’re talking about the man who brought fried chicken nights to Yountville, folks!

With Farmshop, Chef Cerciello draws inspiration from Ad Hoc’s concept, style, and philosophy. Top-notch ingredients are sourced locally, service is efficient and professional, and the mood is calm and casual. At the moment, the restaurant only serves breakfast, lunch, and weekend brunch. However, as soon as their long-awaited liquor license comes through, dinner service (and weekly fried chicken feasts!) will commence. I cannot wait.

I met up with my friends Diana and Danny for brunch here one Sunday a few weekends ago. We were seated promptly at a table fit for four. Diana and I snagged seats along the plush and velvety turquoise banquette that stretched along the dining room. I usually don’t pay much mind to interiors, but the banquette’s unusual fabric and color demanded my attention in this situation.

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Lemon Ricotta Muffins

Published by Gastronomer on June 11, 2011 in Bread, Cake + Cupcake and Recipe. 9 Comments

I am having a terrific time baking my way through Cooking Light’s feature on “Munchable Muffins” from the May 2011 issue. I was quite smitten with the first batch of Pistachio Chai Muffins, and the Corn Muffins with Bacon, Cheddar, and Jalapeno that followed them were surprisingly even better.

As soon as The Astronomer and I returned and recovered from our recent travels across the country, I was ready to bake up batch number three. It turns out that the pleasure of biting into a tender muffin, hot from the oven, can be quite addicting.

These lemon ricotta muffins were part of a brunch spread that we prepared for our friends last Sunday. I usually never serve a yet-to-be-tested recipe to guests, but decided to take a chance since the other muffins turned out so superbly. Thankfully, my logic was sound in this case.

Just like the muffins that proceeded them, the texture of these was fantastic. It’s incredible how soft of a crumb can be achieved by only lightly combining the dry and wet ingredients. Flavor-wise, the combination of zest and juice imparted a bright lemony essence. My favorite element was the muffin tops, which were generously sprinkled with coarse turbinado sugar. The crunch and caramelization elevated the muffins from great to amazing.

7 9/10 ounces all-purpose flour (1 3/4 cups)
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup part-skim ricotta cheese
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon grated lemon rind
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Cooking spray
2 tablespoons turbinado sugar

Preheat oven to 375°. Weigh or lightly spoon flour into dry measuring cups; level with a knife. Combine flour and next 3 ingredients (through salt); make a well in center.

Combine ricotta and next 5 ingredients (through egg). Add ricotta mixture to flour mixture, stirring just until moist.

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1886 Bar at The Raymond – Pasadena

Published by Gastronomer on June 8, 2011 in Los Angeles, Media Event (this meal was free), Mixology, Pasadena and Pub Grub. 9 Comments

Living in Pasadena has its perks. The weather is perpetually gorgeous, work is a short walk away, the Kung Food Panda lives around the corner, and the cocktails are masterfully crafted at 1886. What more does one need besides sunshine, a short commute, good friends, and booze? Not much in my world.

Opened last fall on a quiet stretch of Fair Oaks, 1886 has become my favorite place to drink in the neighborhood. The ambiance is moody without pretension, the bar bites are sophisticated and delicious, and the drinks are nothing short of stellar.

The Astronomer and I have visited 1886 a few times since it debuted, and we recently returned as guests of the bar to sample the new spring cocktail menu. Under the creative direction of master mixologist Marcos Tello, the team at 1886 have added 16 new seasonal and regional drinks to the menu.

The bar was staffed by Garrett McKechnie and Greg Gertmenian this evening. Both gentlemen are extremely knowledgeable and enthusiastic about their craft. I found their spirit for spirits absolutely infectious.

While we perused the food menu, Garrett brought over a Tequila Daisy 2.0 (left) and a Swedish Crush. Both drinks were from the “seasonal” section of the new menu.

Greg created the Tequila Daisy 2.0 as a play on the classic Margarita using tequila, cointreau, lime, and my favorite element, strawberry foam. Tequila-based cocktails with a fruity twist are my favorite, so this one really resonated with me. Garrett’s Swedish Crush, which incorporated a historic ingredient from the 1700’s called “Swedish Punsch,” included cognac, rum, and pomegranate. It was refreshing to the last drop thanks to the icy mound.

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