Archive for the 'BBQ' Category

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Phil’s BBQ – San Diego

Published by Gastronomer on January 11, 2011 in BBQ, Restaurant Review and San Diego. 13 Comments

Phil’s BBQ opened its doors for business sometime during my junior year of high school. Back then, I was too wrapped up in boys, college applications, and SAT scores to keep tabs on new and notable openings in town. Plus, I was pretty content with spending my paltry dining dollars at Islands Fine Burgers & Drinks and Mario’s De La Mesa. Phil’s didn’t register on my radar until well into its tenth year of business. These days, any news of great barbecue captures my attention at first mention. BBQ > Boys. Oh, how times have changed!

My cousin Phil and I have been planning to check out this joint for almost a year now, but we didn’t get around to it until my recent trip to San Diego during the holidays. When The Astronomer and I arrived on the scene, there was a line snaking out the restaurant’s front door. It initially looked quite intimidating, but all in all it took less than half an hour to make our way to the front.

For those skittish about long waits, Phil’s has installed a “BBQueue Cam” at both of its locations that monitors queuing activity and provides estimated wait times.

The wood-framed menu signaled that the end was in sight. To entertain ourselves while we waited, The Astronomer and I, along with our dining mates Cousins Phil and Kristine, hashed out a plan that involved ordering one of each meat on the menu and all of our favorite sides. There’s nothing like sweet anticipation to get the salivary glands going.

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Slow-Cooked Pulled Pork with Orange and Cilantro

Published by Gastronomer on October 15, 2010 in BBQ, Main Course and Recipe. 15 Comments

The funny thing about learning how to make a dish at home is that it kills my desire to order it at a restaurant. Something about preparing it from scratch and enduring the entire process demystifies the product so completely that there isn’t any magic left.

Pulled pork sandwiches have been my go-to barbecue dish ever since I met The Astronomer and began traveling and eating down South on a regular basis. I was so fiercely loyal to pulled pork that even when a restaurant boasted the state’s best ribs or brisket, I couldn’t bear to stray away.

I never once questioned my devotion to the temple of pulled pork until recently, when I discovered that it was possible to recreate its magnificent texture easily in a standard crock pot. I didn’t believe it at first, but the proof was in the meat after it was slow cooked for nine or so hours on the pot’s lowest setting. The stringy texture that resulted was spot on, and it soaked up sauce like a charm. It was kind of shocking how simple it all turned out to be.

While most recipes that I encountered suggested dousing the pork in either bottled or homemade barbecue sauce, I fancied this one because it called for a vinegar and orange juice-based mop sauce. The combination of tangy sauce, fresh scallions, and cilantro makes for a familiar yet deliciously different interpretation of my beloved pulled pork.

For marinade

1 4- to 6-lb. boned pork shoulder or butt
3 ounces frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed
3 tablespoons achiote paste
2 tablespoons coarse kosher or sea salt
2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon crumbled dried oregano
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

For mop sauce

3 ounces frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed
2 cups cider vinegar or white distilled vinegar
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon coarse kosher or sea salt

For serving

1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Buns or rolls
Pickles (optional)
Hot sauce (optional)

In a 4 1/2- to 6-quart slow-cooker pot, whisk together orange juice concentrate, achiote paste, salt, pepper, garlic powder, dried oregano, and cayenne pepper.

Add the pork to the mixture and coat well with the sauce. If time permits, cover and marinade in the refrigerator for two to three hours. If not, go ahead and get the pork cooking.

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L.A. County Fair 2010 – Pomona

Published by Gastronomer on September 29, 2010 in Amusement Park Fare, BBQ, Dessert, Los Angeles, Molecular Gastronomy and Pomona. 12 Comments

Our little apartment would’ve roasted us alive had we not left the premises this past weekend. After a summer of moderate weather, temperatures hit over a hundred degrees throughout the city seemingly out of nowhere. To escape our overheated pad, I suggested to The Astronomer that we troll for cute dresses in an indoor mall. He nixed that idea and offered that we head to an air-conditioned bar for NFL action instead. I couldn’t get behind that plan either. In the name of compromise, we sought respite in the least likely of places: the L.A. County Fair.

Spending the day in Pomona probably wasn’t much cooler than staying at home in Pasadena, but it was far and away more fun. It’s not every day that I can attend a pig race and then eat barbecued ribs afterward. No sirree, just once a year when the fair rolls into town.

The L.A. County Fair is equal parts food, rides, and exhibits. We focused solely on eating and observing during our visit. Before deciding what to consume first, The Astronomer and I strolled through the fairgrounds scoping out the goods. The 1/2 pound dogs glistening in the sun looked mighty enticing roasting next to a pile of onions and peppers. Truth be told, these were the largest wieners I’d ever seen.

The giant turkey legs nearby smelled and looked terrific as well. My friend Laurie attended the fair a few weeks before and reported that the turkey legs were seriously delicious.

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Sam Woo Barbecue Shop – Monterey Park

Published by Gastronomer on December 9, 2009 in BBQ, Chain / Multiple Locations, Chinese, Los Angeles, Monterey Park and Restaurant Review. 20 Comments

Not last night but the night before, a group of friends and I dined at Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant, a fancy pants Chinese banquet hall in the city of San Gabriel. Aware of Newport’s reputation for stellar seafood preparations, our party of twelve indulged in a prix fixe menu that included delicacies like sharks’ fin soup, sea cucumber, lobster, and crab. The spread was luxurious, plated neatly, and mostly delicious, but after forking over $32 to cover my portion of the tab, I couldn’t help thinking that we should’ve just gone to a simpler joint like Sam Woo.

I’ve always had an inkling that I preferred hole-in-the-wall Chinese eateries to grand restaurants oozing with ambiance, but wasn’t certain until my recent dabble in high-end Chinese cuisine. Granted, Sam Woo is a dingy chain, but there’s something about taut-skinned ducks glistening under florescent lights and service so indifferent that I feel like I’m doing the restaurant a favor by dining there that captures my heart and satisfies my gullet.

According to the restaurant’s superbly written Wikipedia entry, Sam Woo is not a person, but rather the romanization of the Cantonese pronunciation for “triple harmonies.” “Sam” meaning three and “Woo” meaning harmony. Triple harmonies is a reference to the principles of feng shui: heaven, earth, and humanity.

The first Sam Woo was opened by a Hong Kong immigrant in Los Angeles’ Chinatown in 1979. Since then, the chain has expanded into communities with sizable Chinese populations like Las Vegas, Toronto, and Southern California. There are currently over ten Sam Woo locations in North America.

The Astronomer and I were introduced to Sam Woo by a fellow named Ryan, a classmate of The Astronomer’s. I was excited to learn that Sam Woo specialized in roast fowl, because one of my fondest food memories is of eating roast goose in Hong Kong. I can recall savoring the juicy meat dipped in sweet plum sauce like it was yesterday.

Our group shared half a roast duck ($8.95) that arrived at the table chopped into manageable bits. The quality of the meat and seasonings didn’t match my Hong Kong experience, but the crispy skin, moist meat, and plentiful pockets of fat made everything all right. The plum sauce was worthy of sipping alone; it’s certainly not for everyone, but it definitely is for me.

While I normally frown upon chicken, Sam Woo’s Tung Kong-style salty chicken (half – $7.95) was very enjoyable, especially with a generous pour of scallion oil. The notes of ginger and garlic soaked into the skin, and the boiled texture of the meat reminded me of Hainanese chicken.

For the carbohydrate portion of our meal, we selected a seafood chow mein ($6.75) with scallops, fish, krab, shrimp and squid. For me, chow mein tastes best once the goopy sauce has properly soaked and softened the fried noodles, creating a clumpy delight.

Lastly, we shared a plate of salted and spiced deep-fried bean curd ($6.50). The tofu’s salty crust brought a great deal of flavor and a killer crunch, while the jalapenos and scallions gave the tofu an edge. Sam Woo executes this simple dish very well.

Now, if only it were acceptable to invite wedding guests to a barbecue shop rather than a formal banquet hall.

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Sam Woo Barbecue Shop
634 W. Garvey Avenue
Monterey Park, CA 91754
Phone: 626-289-4858

Zeke’s Smokehouse – Los Angeles (West Hollywood)

Published by Gastronomer on December 1, 2009 in BBQ, Chain / Multiple Locations, Los Angeles, Media Event (this meal was free), Restaurant Review, Southern and West Hollywood. 13 Comments

I swung by Zeke’s Smokehouse in West Hollywood last week to scope out the space for this Saturday’s Eat My Blog charity bake sale. I was planning on staying only a short while to take care of logistics and details, but the wondrous smells of slow roasting meats lured me into a booth and tied a napkin around my neck. Before I knew it, I was sitting down to big ‘ol plate of pulled pork sliders with tangy sauce dribbling down my chin. Barbecue is kind of magical.

The original Zeke’s Smokehouse was opened in Montrose by chefs Leonard Schwartz (formerly of Maple Drive) and Michael Rosen (formerly of Reign), and their partners Ron and Kirk Gelsinger of Gelsinger Meats in 2002. The West Hollywood location opened in 2004. With Zeke’s Smokehouse, the two fine dining veterans aimed to bring the type of authentic barbecue usually found in ‘cuing capitals like Kansas City, Memphis, and Greensboro to Los Angeles.

The restaurant’s vibe is a casual blend of down home comfort and West Hollywood cool. With its exposed brick walls, vintage aluminum furniture, and homey plaid tabletops, Zeke’s sleeks up classic southern style nicely. The menu features everything under the smoke-able sun, from Texas-style brisket and beef ribs to Kansas City-style spare ribs and Memphis-style baby back ribs.

It is absolutely essential that all southern meals, even those being taken above the Mason Dixon, begin with an array of deep fried foods. The Frito Misto platter ($7.95), which comes with hush puppies, sweet potato fries, and onion rings, really got the Zeke’s party started. The restaurant’s resident fryer did a fantastic job making sure that each item was perfectly crisp and light on the grease factor. I highly recommend dredging the onion rings and fries in plenty of ranch dressing and smothering the hush puppies with a healthy smear of honey butter. If you bat your eyelashes and pull off a sweet smile, fried okra might appear on your Frito Misto platter as well.

For my main course, I went with a trio of sliders ($11.95). From the list of available meats, I chose pulled pork, beef brisket, and ham ham ham ham ham (pronounced like Sisqo’s “thong, thong, thong, thong, thong”) with a side of collard greens.

Since pork is my very best pal, the ham and pulled pork sliders were loved the most. The beef brisket came in a very close third. Unlike the squishy buns on barbecue sandwiches I’ve eaten in Alabama, Zeke’s buns had a bit more oomph and a nice, toasty exterior. Though not a ten on the authenticity scale, it was a fine improvement in my mind.

To accompany my trio of sliders was a trio of made-from-scratch sauces. The reddish-hued one brought slight heat and paired well with the beef brisket, while the Kansas City-style brown sauce was a little sweeter and went fine with the ham. My favorite combination was the Carolina mustard sauce with the pulled pork. The collard greens did their best to sway my meal in a healthy direction, which is all I could have really asked of them.

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Zeke’s Smokehouse
7100 Santa Monica Boulevard
West Hollywood, CA 90046
Phone: 323-850-9353