Archive for the 'Book Reviews' Category

Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook – Anthony Bourdain

About: In the ten years since his classic Kitchen Confidential first alerted us to the idiosyncrasies and lurking perils of eating out, from Monday fish to the breadbasket conspiracy, much has changed for the subculture of chefs and cooks, for the restaurant business-and for Anthony Bourdain. Medium Raw explores these changes, moving back and forth from the author’s bad old days to the present. Tracking his own strange and unexpected voyage from journeyman cook to globe-traveling professional eater and drinker, and even to fatherhood, Bourdain takes no prisoners as he dissects what he’s seen, pausing along the way for a series of confessions, rants, investigations, and interrogations of some of the most controversial figures in food. Beginning with a secret and highly illegal after-hours gathering of powerful chefs that he compares to a mafia summit, Bourdain pulls back the curtain-but never pulls his punches-on the modern gastronomical revolution, as only he can.

My thoughts: I didn’t like Bourdain very much after reading Kitchen Confidential and A Cook’s Tour back in 2007. I found his language crass, his swagger overly macho, and his attitude offputting. I eventually warmed up to him after catching a few episodes of  No Reservations. I really liked the respectful  manner in which he conducted himself while filming and feasting abroad. He represented Americans well, and it didn’t hurt that he looked good while doing it.

In the three years since I was first introduced to Bourdain, the man has truly grown on me. And after reading Medium Raw, I am downright smitten. Compared to his previous works, I found this one to be more honest and less venomous. His language is still atrocious, but Bourdain’s tremendous sense of self and sharp writing are more than enough to make up for it. I don’t know if it’s the result of him aging, his perspectives shifting, or a combination of both, but the voice that fills these pages is leaps and bounds more likable than before. Or maybe I’m just a sucker for thinking so.

Nearly every chapter contained a quotable gem or two, but my two favorites were “Heroes and Villains” and “It’s Not You, It’s Me.” In the former, Bourdain makes a somewhat random list of food personalities and humorously anoints them “hero” or “villain.” Jonathan Gold is a hero, as are Ariane Daguin, Grant Achatz, and Jamie Oliver. Villains include Gael Greene, Wolfgang Puck, and the James Beard House. You’ll have to read the book for his witty rationalizations.

The chapter that got me thinking was “It’s Not You, It’s Me,” where he discusses his falling out with fine dining and tasting menus. Bourdain asserts that multi-course meals should be judged based on how one feels afterward. I still find pleasure in gut-busting feasts, so I’m on the fence about whether or not that’s fair, but I expect my perspective will change with time, just as Bourdain’s did. In support of his argument, he brings up unladylike topics like suppressed farts and pooping truffles. Get the book for the gritty details.

This book is a superb read for anyone who loves restaurants, chefs, and the business of food. It’s been over a year since I’ve read a food book worthy of mentioning on the site, so the fact that Medium Raw made the cut speaks volumes.

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The Foie Gras Wars – Mark Caro

About: Veteran Chicago Tribune entertainment reporter Caro expands on his front-page story about a 2005 flap over foie gras with a wide-ranging investigation into the ethical debate surrounding the human consumption of fattened duck liver. Drawing on conflicts in Chicago, Philadelphia and California over whether force-feeding birds should be legislated as torture or standard agricultural practice, Caro presents various positions from duck farmers, chefs and animal rights activists. His chatty arguments between industry players deliver without becoming unnecessarily complicated or resorting to the oversimplification of surveys and superficial media reports. Caro offers descriptions of a vegan activist headquarters, a video depicting a rat burrowing into an injured duck, and traditional farm operations in France. While he pursues his source’s agendas with due diligence, he appears reluctant to side completely with gourmands despite describing presumably happy ducks, mouthwatering foie gras meals and even eating a raw duck liver. While he tends to focus on the colorful, entertaining aspects of the food’s history and science, Caro’s selection of pointed quotes from duck liver lovers and foie gras foes presents an in-depth take on this ongoing food fight. From Publishers Weekly.

My Thoughts: I snatched up The Foie Gras Wars on the New Non-Fiction bookshelf at my local library. While it was the sensationalist title that initially caught my eye, Caro’s personable style of writing drew me in and kept me interested from start to finish. I appreciated how Caro’s background as an entertainment reporter distinguished his voice and style from the Michael Pollans and Marion Nestles of the food politics writing world.

As a semi-frequent fine diner and full-time news media hound, I’ve read bits and pieces here and there about the controversy over foie gras. I was well aware that the substance was banned for a period of time in Chicago and that Philadelphians were considering similar legislation, but I never understood the full picture until reading this book. I was really surprised to discover that it was Charlie Trotter who started this whole messy foie gras war. Not cool Chaz, not cool at all.

Some of the funniest parts of The Foie Gras Wars looked at the lengths Chicago chefs went to in order to serve the illegal substance. From giving it away gratis to establishing membership-only secret clubs, foie gras never really disapeared from the city’s fine dining scene. On the Philly front, cranky old Georges Perrier‘s (of Le Bec-Fin fame) tit for tat with the animal rights group Hugs for Puppies was a riot as well.

Aside from examining the politics and personalities behind the battle lines, Caro also paid a visit to a few of the U.S.’s major foie gras farms, including Hudson Valley Foie Gras and Sonoma Foie Gras, to witness gavage (force-feeding) firsthand. Although Caro doesn’t outwardly state whether or not he feels that foie gras production is cruel, from his tone and words, I gathered that he’s more for than against.

After reading Caro’s detailed accounts of gavage in both North America and in France, I remain comfortable consuming foie gras. However, I must admit that the images that surface from Googling ‘gavage, foie gras’ makes my stomach turn slightly.

Click below to watch Chef Dan Barber of Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns discuss the potential for natural foie gras—it’s awesome. Thanks again, Vanessa!

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The Fortune Cookie Chronicles – Jennifer 8. Lee

About: Readers will take an unexpected and entertaining journey—through culinary, social and cultural history—in this delightful first book on the origins of the customary after-Chinese-dinner treat by New York Times reporter Lee. When a large number of Powerball winners in a 2005 drawing revealed that mass-printed paper fortunes were to blame, the author went in search of the backstory. She tracked the winners down to Chinese restaurants all over America, and the paper slips the fortunes are written on back to a Brooklyn company. This travel-like narrative serves as the spine of her cultural history—not a book on Chinese cuisine, but the Chinese food of take-out-and-delivery—and permits her to frequently but safely wander off into various tangents related to the cookie. There are satisfying mini-histories on the relationship between Jews and Chinese food and a biography of the real General Tso, but Lee also pries open factoids and tidbits of American culture that eventually touch on large social and cultural subjects such as identity, immigration and nutrition. Copious research backs her many lively anecdotes, and being American-born Chinese yet willing to scrutinize herself as much as her objectives, she wins the reader over. From Publishers Weekly.

My Thoughts: After finishing up a good read, I try to take some time away from it in order to fully digest what I’ve learned. I find that over time, certain themes and stories stay with me, while others fade to black. It’s been a solid month since I finished up The Fortune Cookie Chronicles, and I still can’t stop thinking about the Chinese village of Houyu. With more than three-quarters of its population working in Chinese restaurants in the United States, all that remains in Houyu are women, children, and giant mansions built from back-breaking American dollars. “This is what General Tso’s chicken buys in China,” Lee writes. It’s haunting stories like this one that makes this book a real page-turner.

Some of the most poignant tales in The Fortune Cookie Chronicles explore issues of immigration. I was fascinated to learn that New York City is the chief point of reference for all Chinese immigrants. Cities outside the Big Apple are defined by their relative distance (in hours by bus) from East Broadway in Chinatown. It’s crazy to think that the network of Chinatown buses I used to ride from Philly to New York and D.C. sprung up to transport new immigrant laborers to Chinese restaurants outside New York.

Although Lee tackles a number of heavy issues in her book, she also weaves in a handful of lighter stories. One of the most enjoyable chapters focused on Lee’s quest for “The Greatest Chinese Restaurant Outside Greater China.” I was hoping with all of my heart that she’d find it in the San Gabriel Valley, but alas, she chose Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine outside Vancouver.

The Fortune Cookie Chronicles is an entertaining and exceptionally well-written exploration of everything under the Chinese-American sun. This book is an essential read for anyone who’s ever added the words “in bed” to the end of their fortune cookie prophecies or wondered whether General Tso’s Chicken was actually eaten in China. After reading this book, soy sauce packets and delivery menus will never be seen in the same light again.

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In Defense of Food – Michael Pollan

About: In his hugely influential treatise The Omnivore’s Dilemma, Pollan traced a direct line between the industrialization of our food supply and the degradation of the environment. His new book takes up where the previous work left off. Examining the question of what to eat from the perspective of health, this powerfully argued, thoroughly researched and elegant manifesto cuts straight to the chase with a maxim that is deceptively simple: Eat food, not too much, mostly plants. But as Pollan explains, food in a country that is driven by a thirty-two billion-dollar marketing machine is both a loaded term and, in its purest sense, a holy grail. The first section of his three-part essay refutes the authority of the diet bullies, pointing up the confluence of interests among manufacturers of processed foods, marketers and nutritional scientists—a cabal whose nutritional advice has given rise to a notably unhealthy preoccupation with nutrition and diet and the idea of eating healthily. The second portion vivisects the Western diet, questioning, among other sacred cows, the idea that dietary fat leads to chronic illness. A writer of great subtlety, Pollan doesn’t preach to the choir; in fact, rarely does he preach at all, preferring to lets the facts speak for themselves. From Publishers Weekly.

My Thoughts: As anticipated, In Defense of Food was a great read. Pollan’s voice is clear and concise, while his arguments are logical and well-laid out. Rather than spend several paragraphs here writing about how much I agree with the man and his words, I think it’d be more useful to focus on the real changes that eaters like you and me can make in our daily lives in order to become more mindful omnivores. These steps toward a collective change are discussed in the final third of In Defense of Food. After I wrap up a book, I’m usually quick to start another, so this list is a way of distilling and remembering Pollan’s most important lessons.

  • Avoid food products containing ingredients that are a.) unfamiliar, b.) unpronounceable, c.) more than five in number, or that include d.) high fructose corn syrup

Most of the packaged foods that I consume come from Trader Joe’s and almost always adhere to rules A through D.

  • Avoid food products that make health claims

There was definitely a time in my life when I considered foods boasting health claims superior to those without, but now I understand that they’re just a clever marketing ploy.

  • Eat mostly plants, especially leaves

Did you know that scientists can find antioxidants in practically every fruit and vegetable? Just eat “mostly plants” and good health will follow.

  • Eat grass-fed beef

One of these days, I’m gonna purchase a whole grass-fed cow from an indie farmer just like The Astronomer’s mom does. Until then, no grains for my moo.

  • Eat like an omnivore

I’m more or less a creature of habit so eating a varied diet doesn’t come naturally. These days when I go produce shopping, I always try to purchase a foreign vegetation like tomatillos or prickly pear cactus fruit in order to expand my food horizons and recipe repertoire.

  • Eat well-grown food from healthy soils

Foods grown in healthy soils are packed with more goodness (i.e. flavor and nutrients). Pollan’s research uncovered that a modern day apple has a third less nutrients than an apple produced before the agro-industrial complex took hold.

  • Eat wild foods

Plants and animals that are given room to breathe and roam are not only tastier, but healthier too.

  • Pay more, eat less

It was interesting to read that Americans spend a smaller proportion of their incomes on food than other developed nations. When it comes to feeding ourselves, focusing solely on bang per buck has resulted in a nation of overweight individuals lacking discerning tastebuds.

  • Eat meals, not snacks

‘Nuff said.

  • Consult your gut rather than external clues

I try my best to stop eating when I feel full rather than when I’ve cleaned my plate. My cross country captain in college always said, “Listen to your body.”

  • Eat slowly

I find that food tastes so much better when it’s not scarfed down. Meal times are probably the most relaxing parts of my day, so I try to make ‘em last a good long while. 

  • Cook and plant a garden

I cook often, but my garden is non-existant. I hope to start planting herbs in the near future. I can’t wait to make mixed herb pesto on a regular basis.

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Cookoff: Recipe Fever in America – Amy Sutherland

About: In this engrossing look at the competitive cooking circuit, journalist Sutherland follows the trail of competitions and a small group of regular participants. These often fanatical competitors, complete with their own websites and chat rooms, square off against the amateur one-time-only contenders at local and national levels across the country. With a healthy dose of humor, Sutherland conveys the inside stories and nail-biting moments as the regulars face off. From developing recipes to matching serving wear to outfits, the bravado of the male players and the disasters and pitfalls that can ensue for both regular and amateur alike, this work takes a long, thorough look at this American phenomenon. From chili contests that are more like frat parties to the National Chicken and National Beef competitions, Sutherland crisscrosses the country and along the way conveys her growing enthusiasm for and fascination with why one recipe or dish wins and another loses. She intersperses winning recipes with the account of her own growing delight, which leads her to enter a competition herself. Doing for cookoffs what Anthony Bourdain did for the restaurant business with Kitchen Confidential, Sutherland delivers a wonderful portrait of a true slice of Americana that should have readers reaching for their recipe files and saying, “I can do that.” From Publishers Weekly.

My Thoughts: I stumbled upon this book while rummaging through an excellent bookstore in St. Louis. After perusing the introduction, which is aptly entitled “Start Your Ovens,” I was completely hooked. As soon as I arrived home from my trip, I requested the book from my public library; it couldn’t have arrived soon enough.

The competitive cooking circuit is a wild, wild place. The subculture’s major players, also known as Contesters, are full of intense and creative energy. Some especially dedicated Contesters are known to prepare 10+ complex dishes in a single day in hopes of winning a couple of blue ribbons at the Iowa State Fair. The most hardcore Contesters invent and test 40+ recipes in hopes of qualifying for the holy grail of cookoffs—the Pillsbury Bake-Off—where the grand prize totals a million dollars! Sutherland’s deft storytelling guides readers through this wacky world of cookoffs in very entertaining fashion.

In addition to profiling the Contesters’ personalities and contagious drive, Cookoff explores the influence of cooking contests on America’s food culture. I discovered that the popularity of the bundt cake pan took off in the U.S.A. after the Tunnel of Fudge Cake won the 1966 Pillsbury Bake-Off.

Cookoff is truly a fascinating and fun read. I was jonesing to enter a cooking contest before I reached the end, but then I remembered the ruthlessness of some veteran Contesters and totally wussed out.

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