Archive for the 'Book Reviews' Category

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Secrets of the Red Lantern – Pauline Nguyen

About: In this moving culinary account of her family’s immigration from their native Vietnam, restaurateur Nguyen of Sydney, Australia begins: “In my family, food is our language… when we cannot speak the words “I am sorry,” we give this bittersweet soup instead.” Luckily, Nguyen is also skilled in written language; her moving, honest and painful story follows her family’s dramatic exodus from their war-ravaged homeland to the safety of Australia. There, Nguyen’s parents opened the restaurant that would give Pauline and her brother Luke the foundation for their current enterprise, The Red Lantern, one of Sydney’s most popular dining destinations. Worth the price alone is Nguyen’s masterful storytelling, including a warts-and-all look at her family and the immigrant experience. The book’s arc is entirely film-ready; indeed, color images of people, places and dishes are striking. And then there’s the recipes: more than 275 traditional Vietnamese dishes, all relatively simple to prepare (though some might require some tenacious shopping). Nguyen’s wide net catches classic comfort food like Pho Bo Tai Nam, the traditional beef noodle soup, and slow-cooked pork shoulder; fish dishes like Crispy-Skin Snapper with Ginger and Lime Fish Sauce; easy appetizers like Tom Nuong (Soy and Honey Grilled Shrimp); and exotic fare like Durian Ice Cream. Whether you buy it for the story, recipes or both, this is an essential volume for those interested in Vietnamese cooking and culture. From Publishers Weekly.

My Thoughts: Oh, Pauline Nguyen, you totally owe me a brand new keyboard and a box of tissues because I laughed and cried up a storm while reading your memoir-cum-cookbook.

Food and family go hand in hand in Vietnamese culture, so it makes perfect sense that Nguyen combined them in one cohesive tome. What sets Secrets of the Red Lantern apart from other Vietnamese cookbooks on the market is Nguyen’s heart wrenching and uplifting memoir, which is told in a painfully honest voice. The foods and memories that Nguyen reflects upon in Secrets of the Red Lantern are so intimately intertwined that they each become more meaningful when placed in the proper context of her life. At times I found myself flipping quickly through the gorgeous photos and recipes just so that I could find out what happened next—Nguyen’s life is a literal page-turner.

In addition to sharing her personal trials and tribulations with readers, Nguyen is also generous with her family’s treasured recipes, including her father’s top-secret bo kho recipe that surprisingly calls for soda pop and Laughing Cow cheese. I appreciated how the book’s photographs successfully captured the warmth and rustic quality of homemade Vietnamese food.

As a whole, I found Secrets of the Red Lantern very inspiring. While reading this book, I was not only moved to whip up Vietnamese delights, but also to make time to sit down with my grandparents to record my family’s history and recipes. We’ll always have food, but time and memories are fleeting.

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Waiter Rant – Steve Dublanica (a.k.a. The Waiter)

About: According to The Waiter, eighty percent of customers are nice people just looking for something to eat. The remaining twenty percent, however, are socially maladjusted psychopaths. Waiter Rant offers the server’s unique point of view, replete with tales of customer stupidity, arrogant misbehavior, and unseen bits of human grace transpiring in the most unlikely places. Through outrageous stories, The Waiter reveals the secrets to getting good service, proper tipping etiquette, and how to keep him from spitting in your food. The Waiter also shares his ongoing struggle, at age thirty-eight, to figure out if he can finally leave the first job at which he’s truly thrived.

My Thoughts: I’ve toyed with the idea of working in a restaurant off and on now for the past two or three years. The notion of joining the bad-ass ranks of restaurant folks excites me in a way that freelance writing never will, but in all honesty, I’m extremely ill suited for that line of work. I would perform terribly in the front of the house because I hate being on my feet for extended periods of time. And the back of the house wouldn’t work either because my Spanish sucks and I’m very afraid of burns and cuts.

Since I’ll probably never find myself in the weeds, I’ll have to live vicariously through behind-the-scenes books like Kitchen Confidential, The Fourth Star, and Waiter Rant. Whereas Kitchen Confidential and The Fourth Star focus on the back of the house, Waiter Rant is about the front, primarily the outrageous and dysfunctional interactions between waiters, diners and restaurant owners. In between humorous vignettes about poor tipping, self-medicating, and passive-aggressive farting, The Waiter writes about his personal shortcomings. The Waiter isn’t a lovable character, but the frankness in which he addresses his struggles makes him universally appealing. Waiter Rant isn’t a must-read, but it certainly is an entertaining one.

By the way, “The Bistro” that inspired Waiter Rant is the Lanterna Tuscan Bistro in Nyack, New York.

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Cupcakes – Shelly Kaldunski

About: Cupcakes are everyone’s favorite little indulgences. They’re loved by kids and adults alike because they’re playfully sweet as well as utterly charming. These days, cupcakes can be found in bakeries everywhere, but with just a little know-how, you can easily bake your own tempting boutique-bakery cupcakes at home and decorate them with flair.

Cupcakes contains recipes for every palate: Here you’ll find classic Yellow Cupcakes with Chocolate Buttercream for the traditionalist, Triple Chocolate Cupcakes for the chocaholic, PB&J Cupcakes for the kids, Salted Caramel Cupcakes for the epicurean, as well as seasonal holiday cupcakes, and dozens more. Whether you are a novice or experienced baker, inside these pages you’ll find friendly advice about ingredients and equipment, cupcake-making and baking tips, and a collection of ideas for decorating your cupcakes with either elegant minimalism or grand flourishes. —Simon and Schuster.

My Thoughts: It’s no secret that I love cupcakes, so I was thrilled to receive Cupcakes the book this past Christmas from The Astronomer’s thoughtful parents. The 128-page beauty is divided into seven sections. The introductory chapter, “All About Cupcakes,” explains baking basics and techniques, which is a must-read for novices and experts alike. Next, the book devotes four sections to various genres of cupcakes including “Basic” (vanilla, chocolate, yellow), ”Fruit & Nut” (lemon blueberry crunch, sour cherry-almond, banana caramel),  ”Chocolate” (Mexican chocolate and red velvet) and ”Special Occasion” (tres leches, tiramisu).

The sixth section focuses on “Frostings, Fillings & Finishes” and includes excellent infusion ideas for jazzing up classic frostings like buttercream and cream cheese. Perhaps the most unique section of the book is the final one, “Creative Cupcaking.” It is a two-page, user-friendly diagram that suggests how to mix and match the book’s various recipes for frostings, cakes, fillings and garnishes to create innovative new cupcakes—this section really gets the creative juices flowing.

The first cupcake I made was the red velvet with cream cheese frosting. Everything was going swimmingly up until the point when I realized that the instructions did not inform me when to add the egg. Doh! Luckily, the cupcakes turned out well even though the egg was incorporated into the batter haphazardly. I cannot believe that such an important step was omitted from the instructions! Clearly, each recipe was not as meticulously tested (and edited) as I had expected from a published work. What a shame!

Although I initially loved this book for its fabulous photos and abundance of inspiration, the egg situation left a figurative bad taste in my mouth. I’m not ready to give up on Cupcakes completely, but I will proceed with extreme caution.

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Cooking for Mr. Latte – Amanda Hesser

About: Cooking for Mr. Latte is a modern dating story, recipes included. It’s the true story of the courtship between Amanda Hesser, a food writer for The New York Times and author of the award-winning cookbook The Cook and the Gardener, and writer Tad Friend, the titular Mr. Latte. Her tale ends happily ever after, but has enough ups and downs to keep it interesting. Food is an important aspect of Hesser’s life (though it wasn’t for Mr. Latte when they met, making for some of the downs in the ups and downs), but it’s not until you notice how seamlessly Hesser weaves her meals into her story that you realize how much of our lives and our memories revolve around food. Leora Y. Bloom – Amazon.com Review.

My Thoughts: I picked up this book on a whim at the local public library. I’d never heard of Amanda Hesser, but was intrigued by the book’s premise. I mean, who doesn’t LOVE love? Prior to delving into the book, I performed a Google search to learn more about the author. According to Wikipedia, while Hesser was filling in as the lead restaurant reviewer for the Times, she gave three stars to Spice Market, but failed to note that the chef of the restaurant, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, had written a back-cover blurb for Cooking with Mr. Latte. How scandalous! It seems that New Yorkers still haven’t forgiven her for that misstep.

I finished this book in under a day, not because it was amazing, but because I was stuck on a long train ride. Even though she overused the word “tangle” to describe food and flavors, I found the book sweet (in a saccharine sort of way). Her romance with Mr. Latte was predictable and practical, and thus very boring. The chapters I enjoyed most were the ones where she unleashed her food snob and food agenda onto unsuspecting people. I really appreciate people who are opinionated about their food.

Chapter 26, entitled “Fine Dining in the Sky,” was especially awesome. Hesser has an irrational fear that she will die on board an airplane. As a result, whenever she flies, she packs along gourmet foods like roasted and salted almonds, prosciutto and butter sandwiches, and asparagus and goat curd salad with blood orange vinaigrette, just in case it’s her last meal. What a lovable freak.

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Alone in the Kitchen with an Eggplant – Jenni Ferrari-Adler

About: A mishmash of foodie writers dispute, humorously or more self-seriously, the pros and cons of cooking and dining alone. While eating by oneself can be the busy worker’s greatest pleasure, as Colin Harrison notes of his solitary Manhattan lunches during a work day (“Out to Lunch”), and mother Holly Hughes (“Luxury”) agrees is a secret but too rare pleasure, other writers see it as depressing or shameful. In “The Lonely Palate,” Laura Calder quotes Epicurus as saying, “we should look for someone to eat and drink with before looking for something to eat and drink”—then offers a recipe for Kippers Mash. Eating is an act of love, thus prompting Jonathan Ames (“Poisonous Eggs”) to dine out and flirt with the waitress. “Table for One” by Erin Ergenbright records how the single diner is perceived uneasily by the wait staff. And M.F.K. Fisher relishes solitary dining (“A Is for Dining Alone”) as a way to escape “the curious disbelieving impertinence of the people in restaurants.” The collection is named after an essay by Laurie Colwin, who found a dozen different ways to cook eggplant on her two-burner hot plate while living alone in a tiny Greenwich Village flat. (From Publishers Weekly, July)

My thoughts: Although I love food writing, I probably would not have read this particular collection of essays had my friend Nina not given it to me as a gift. When scanning the shelves at my local library, I usually pick out food memoirs and books analyzing food systems or nutrition. So, thanks Miss Adventure for broadening my horizons!

Alone in the Kitchen with an Eggplant is an entertaining enough read because the essays are short, snappy and often humorous. My favorite piece of the bunch was “The Legend of Salsa Rosa” by Ben Karlin of The Daily Show and The Colbert Report fame. That dude is hilarious.

One of the major drawbacks of a compilation of essays on an ultra-specific subject like eating alone is that after a couple of reads, the tales of self-pity and triumph start blending together, making it impossible to differentiate (and remember) one writer’s experience from the next. While some of the essayers relished eating alone, the bulk felt sad and lonely. As a result of the pervading blue mood, the recipes that followed the essays didn’t sound at all appealing.

And speaking of eating alone…

When I’m chowing for one, it’s usually breakfast staples like toast, eggs and pancakes. I’ll spare you a self-indulgent essay about it.

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