Archive for the 'Main Course' Category

Braised Rabbit with Pappardelle

Braised Rabbit with Noodles

The Astronomer and I got married exactly two years ago today, under sunny L.A. skies with our family and friends around us. It was one of the happiest days of my life, one that never fails to put a huge and goofy smile on my face every time I think about it.

With our second anniversary upon us, I wanted to gift The Astronomer something in line with tradition, but with an edible spin. For our first anniversary, I made two varieties of Vietnamese spring rolls, goi cuon and bo bia, to represent paper. Since it is customary to bestow cotton upon one’s beloved in recognition of the second anniversary, I briefly contemplated whipping up some cotton candy, but ultimately decided to prepare a feast of cottontail.

For my first foray into rabbit cookery, I chose this straightforward recipe for Braised Rabbit with Egg Noodles from the May 2003 issue of Gourmet. Braising, a technique that calls for meat to be seared at a high temperature and then finished in a covered pot with liquid, practically guarantees moist meat and robust flavors. It sounded like the kind of forgiving recipe that would be ideal for this first timer.

After bathing in an aromatic brew of onions, garlic, orange zest, cinnamon, and red wine, the meat was fork-tender while the sauce was deeply savory with mellow citrus notes. The flavors whisked our taste buds away to the Mediterranean. Dinner was served outside on our picnic table, with snappy asparagus on the side and glasses of red wine to sip. The Astronomer requested seconds.

  • 1 (2 1/2- to 3 1/2-pound) rabbit, cut into 6-8 pieces
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 medium onions, halved lengthwise and then cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch slices
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2 (4- by 1-inch) strips fresh orange zest
  • 1 (3- to 4-inch) cinnamon stick
  • 2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California
  • 1/2 cup dry red wine
  • 2 cups canned diced tomatoes
  • 1/2 cup water or chicken broth
  • 8 ounces dried pappardelle, tagliatelle, or fettuccine
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)

Braised Rabbit with Noodles

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Pat rabbit pieces dry and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a deep 12-inch ovenproof skillet (preferably with a lid) or a 5-quart wide heavy pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown rabbit in 2 batches, turning over once, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer as browned to a plate.

Braised Rabbit with Noodles

Reduce heat to moderate and cook onions, garlic, zest, cinnamon stick, and bay leaves in remaining 2 tablespoons oil, stirring frequently, until onions are beginning to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Add wine and deglaze skillet by boiling, stirring and scraping up any brown bits, until wine is reduced by about half, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, water, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

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Thịt Nướng – Vietnamese Grilled Pork

Thit Nuong - Vietnamese Grilled Pork

The Astronomer doesn’t care too much for receiving “stuff” on his birthdays, so I gifted him homemade thịt nướng with all the fixings in celebration of his 27th last weekend. Vietnamese grilled pork has been on my lengthy list of things to master for quite some time, so this was the perfect occasion to finally learn how to prepare one of our all-time favorite dishes from scratch.

I employed my aunt Phuong’s recipe for the all-important marinade. Made from an aromatic mix of shallots, garlic, lemongrass, honey, fish sauce, and sesame oil, the marinade mingled with the meat overnight to ensure that every bit of pork was permeated. To pair with the protein, I prepped some scallion oil, pickled carrots and daikon, toasted crushed peanuts, and a jar-full of nước chấm (Vietnamese dipping sauce). Crispy fried shallots were purchased at the local Asian grocery store.

After allowing the meat to marry with the marinade, I fired up the grill, loaded up the “meat cage,” and cooked everything up in several batches. With four pounds of pork to plow through, The Astronomer and I were each treated to half a dozen bowls of bún (vermicelli rice noodles), as well as several loaves of bánh mì for the better part of a week. Thịt nướng is truly the gift that keeps on giving.

  • 4 pounds pork butt or top sirloin, thinly sliced approximately 1/4 inch thick
  • 3 shallots, finely minced
  • 5 cloves garlic, finely minced
  • 1/2 cup lemongrass, finely minced
  • 3 tablespoons white sesame seeds
  • 3 1/2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  • 1/2 tablespoon black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon MSG (optional)
  • 2 tablespoons honey
  • 3 tablespoons fish sauce
  • 1 tablespoon sesame oil
  • 1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil

Thit Nuong - Vietnamese Grilled Pork

Combine all ingredients from shallots through vegetable oil in a large bowl. Add the sliced pork to the bowl. Using your hands, massage the meat and marinade to make sure that the marinade is evenly distributed and coats every slice of meat. Allow the meat to soak in the marinade overnight or for up to 24 hours.

Thit Nuong - Vietnamese Grilled Pork

Traditionally, thịt nướng is cooked on a grill employing a “meat cage.” These devices can be purchased in the housewares section of any well-stocked Chinese or Vietnamese supermarket. If one cannot be located, the pork can be skewered onto bamboo sticks that have been soaked in water for 20 minutes.

If using a meat cage, coat evenly with non-stick spray and layer the pork only one slice deep to ensure even cooking.

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Soy Sauce Brined Turkey

Soy Sauce Brined Turkey

When the folks at Kikkoman approached me to soy brine a turkey for Thanksgiving, my first inclination was to turn them down. I love turkey and all, but preparing one from scratch seemed rather difficult for a novice poultry cook like myself. My worst case scenario was that the big ‘ol bird would turn out unattractive and dry and that the whole experience would scar me for Thanksgivings to come.

What eventually motivated me to change my mind was exactly what scared me at the start—the challenge of brining and roasting a turkey all by myself. I felt that if I didn’t step up to plate this year, it’d probably be a solid decade before the opportunity would present itself again. I had to do it.

For the brining process, I adapted a simple recipe from Kikkoman, and for roasting, I turned to my beloved cooking bible, The America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook. Now, that everything’s been prepped, roasted, carved, and eaten, I must say that the process wasn’t as difficult as I had imagined, and the results were definitely stellar. The soy sauce brine made for an all-around juicy bird and imparted a mild savoriness upon the flesh. The Test Kitchen’s “flipping” method (details below), yielded an evenly cooked bird with a golden and crispy exterior from top to bottom.

Turkeys are notoriously fickle creatures with a penchant for dryness, but thanks to the brine and the Test Kitchen’s tried and true methods, everything turned out just right. From one first-time turkey roaster to another, you can totally do it!

For brine [recipe for a 16-24 pound turkey]

  • 2 gallons cold water
  • 10 ounces naturally brewed soy sauce
  • ½ cup kosher salt
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 2 tablespoons dried sage
  • 1 tablespoon dried thyme
  • 4 bay leaves

For roasting turkey

  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
  • Salt and pepper

Equipment

Brining the turkey

Soy Sauce Brined Turkey

The night before roasting, remove the giblets and turkey neck from the bird. Rinse the turkey inside and out. In a large stock pot, combine all the brine’s ingredients. Stir well, making sure that all of the salt is dissolved. Place the turkey inside a brining bag and pour the brine mixture over the turkey.

Soy Sauce Brined Turkey

Seal the bag tightly using a twisty tie and refrigerate overnight or at least 8 hours. Right before roasting, remove the turkey from the brine and rinse well. Pat the turkey dry using paper towels. [The least messy route is to snip off a corner of the bag and to let the brine drain into the sink.]

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Slow-Cooked Pulled Pork with Orange and Cilantro

Slow-Cooker Pulled Pork

The funny thing about learning how to make a dish at home is that it kills my desire to order it at a restaurant. Something about preparing it from scratch and enduring the entire process demystifies the product so completely that there isn’t any magic left.

Pulled pork sandwiches have been my go-to barbecue dish ever since I met The Astronomer and began traveling and eating down South on a regular basis. I was so fiercely loyal to pulled pork that even when a restaurant boasted the state’s best ribs or brisket, I couldn’t bear to stray away.

I never once questioned my devotion to the temple of pulled pork until recently, when I discovered that it was possible to recreate its magnificent texture easily in a standard crock pot. I didn’t believe it at first, but the proof was in the meat after it was slow cooked for nine or so hours on the pot’s lowest setting. The stringy texture that resulted was spot on, and it soaked up sauce like a charm. It was kind of shocking how simple it all turned out to be.

While most recipes that I encountered suggested dousing the pork in either bottled or homemade barbecue sauce, I fancied this one because it called for a vinegar and orange juice-based mop sauce. The combination of tangy sauce, fresh scallions, and cilantro makes for a familiar yet deliciously different interpretation of my beloved pulled pork.

For marinade

  • 1 4- to 6-lb. boned pork shoulder or butt
  • 3 ounces frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed
  • 3 tablespoons achiote paste
  • 2 tablespoons coarse kosher or sea salt
  • 2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon garlic powder
  • 1 tablespoon crumbled dried oregano
  • 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

For mop sauce

  • 3 ounces frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed
  • 2 cups cider vinegar or white distilled vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1 teaspoon coarse kosher or sea salt

For serving

  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  • Buns or rolls
  • Pickles (optional)
  • Hot sauce (optional)

Slow-Cooker Pulled Pork

In a 4 1/2- to 6-quart slow-cooker pot, whisk together orange juice concentrate, achiote paste, salt, pepper, garlic powder, dried oregano, and cayenne pepper.

Slow-Cooker Pulled Pork

Add the pork to the mixture and coat well with the sauce. If time permits, cover and marinade in the refrigerator for two to three hours. If not, go ahead and get the pork cooking.

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Bison Burgers with Cheddar and Onions

Bison Burgers with Cheddar and Onions

I am generally quite fearless in the kitchen, but have always shied away from grilling. In spite of my liberal leanings, I long held onto the silly notion that cooking over an open flame was dude territory. As a result, all of the grilling in our household was assigned to The Astronomer and his little Smokey Joe. I was content with baking and sauteeing—you know, chick stuff.

Our longstanding division of kitchen duties came to a halt two months ago when I received a fantastically fun photography assignment that required me to grill like I’d never grilled before. From loins to shoulders to burgers, I did it all, and in the process, I discovered a great appreciation for the sport. I love how grilling makes me feel like a culinary badass and how it requires me to trust my instincts. I also like how cleaning up entails scrubbing a metal brush back and forth and little else.

For my first non-work-related grilling session, I decided to prepare bison burgers. Bison meat is often lauded for its nutritional prowess, but doesn’t have the greatest reputation for moistness due to its lower fat content.  However, this recipe for Bison Burgers with Cheddar and Onions from Cooking the Cowboy Way by Grady Spears makes an extremely flavorful, juicy, and satisfying specimen. And as an awesome bonus, it’s actually good for you. Grill on!

  • 2 pounds ground bison or chuck beef
  • 3/4 cup grated white cheddar cheese
  • 1 medium red onion, finely chopped
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
  • 12 English muffins or hamburger buns

Bison Burgers with Cheddar and Onions

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high heat. In a large mixing bowl, combine the ground meat, grated cheese, onion, salt, and pepper thoroughly with your hands.

Bison Burgers with Cheddar and Onions

Divide the mixture into 12 small patties, making sure they are compacted and firm. Place the patties on the hot grill and cook for 5 minutes on each side, or until they register an internal temperature of 160 degrees F.

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