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Hanoi Eats on Saigon Streets

As the self-proclaimed Gastronomer, I’m usually the one introducing friends to unknown eateries and the one in charge of coordinating group meals. However, Hawkins recently turned the tables and planned an awesome lunch at a hidden away bun cha joint in District 1. The two-story restaurant is located in a tight alleyway off of Le Thanh Ton Street next door to Pho 2000.

The Astronomer, Hawkins and I met at noon thirty, placed our order downstairs and found an open table on the second floor. Since this was Hawk’s second time dining here, he knew what the goods were and insisted on a portion of banh tom ho tay and nem cua bien in addition to three portions of bun cha.

The bun cha here is light on the ground meat patties and heavy on pieces of grilled pork. The meats are served dunked in a well-seasoned fish sauce vinaigrette that’s adorned with pickled slices of carrots and green papaya. Although I prefer more patties and less hunks of meat, this was a solid rendition of Hanoi’s specialty. Down the street at 8 Ly Tu Trong is another restaurant serving excellent bun cha.

The nem cua bien (crab stuffed egg rolls) were crispy and delicious, especially dunked in the vinaigrette. While The Astronomer took the time to wrap them up in lettuce leaves and garnish them with herbs, the nem looked so tasty as is, so I skipped out on the greenery and just popped ‘em in my mouth.

Here’s a look at the innards (and my dining companions). The nem cua bien weren’t as crab-intensive as the ones at the crab shack, but still totally awesome.

The banh tom ho tay (batter and fried sweet potatoes and shrimp) were just as good as Hawk promised, but I was too stuffed with grilled meats and nem to truly enjoy them.

It’s tough to find quality down-home restaurants amongst the glitz and glam of District 1, but it’s so good to know that they’re still around! The bun cha restaurant is flanked on one side by Cepage (a high-end Asian fusion restaurant) and on the other by a Pho 24 competitor. With rents and inflation rising at unprecedented rates throughout the city (and country), I wouldn’t be surprised if this eatery was booted out of its location by next year. Eat it while you still can!

Lotteria

If you’re one of the 1,400+ people who have read my Jollibee post, you’ll remember that I promised to blog about Lotteria before leaving Vietnam. This hasn’t turned out to be as easy as I anticipated—to put it simply, at no point in the past 12 months have I felt any desire to step inside a Lotteria branch and order food. However, one day I was on a blogging roll, and with our days in the country winding down, it was time to act.

A little background on the place: the Korean-owned Lotteria is the dominant fast-food hamburger chain in Vietnam. As with most American-inspired products, the hamburger has caught on among the Vietnamese community, and business is good for Lotteria. However, most expats agree that the burgers suck. Rumors abound, like “they’re not even trying to make good hamburgers, they’re just holding retail space until they get bought out by McDonalds.” Nevertheless, our friends Zach and Tom used to eat here approximately once a week. They too weren’t big fans of the hamburgers, but they swore by the chicken sandwich. Once I accompanied Zach and tasted a few of his fries. They were good—good enough that I wanted to eat more. Not quite McDonald’s quality, but a huge step above Jollibee. Still, I had no interest in sampling Zach’s sandwich.

On my solo visit, I spent a few minutes perusing the menu. Like any good Asian hamburger chain, Lotteria offers a selection of rice dishes in addition to sandwiches and fried chicken. I considered ordering the chicken sandwich or “bulgogi burger” but decided that it would be wrong to try anything other than the classic cheeseburger (burger pho mai) for my first Lotteria meal. Two categories of combo meal were available: a sandwich with fries and a soft drink (been there, done that), or a sandwich and drink paired with a piece of fried chicken. I ordered the latter, minus the Pepsi.

Zach used to hype how the food was prepared to order at Lotteria—the meat covered with breadcrumbs right before your eyes. Well, that may be true of the chicken sandwich, but for the hamburger and fried chicken it most certainly is not. My food was bagged up and I was out the door within 15 seconds of placing my order. I fastened the bag on my motorbike hook and headed home, because isn’t that what you’re supposed to do with fast food? Actually, it would have been more appropriate to eat the burger with one hand while driving, but it hadn’t been photographed yet. Plus I didn’t want to die.

So, what was the verdict? Well, the cheeseburger didn’t blow me away, but it wasn’t inedible either. I removed the tomatoes and pickles, as I would in America, leaving the burger dressed with lettuce, cheese, a few shards of onion, and a touch of mustard and ketchup. The quality of the ingredients seemed comparable to a typical McDonald’s burger, but the folks at Mickey D’s really know what they’re doing with flavoring. The Lotteria burger was bland. The cheese didn’t taste like cheese (or anything really), but that’s often the case with cheeseburgers.

I was pleased to see two small packets in my to-go bag, one labeled “chili sauce” and the other “tomato sauce.” I assumed the “tomato sauce” was ketchup; it looked reasonably like what I’m used to from Heinz, if a little darker in color. Jollibee only offered chili sauce to complement their fries, so this was a step in the right direction. I didn’t have any fries this time, so it wasn’t as big of a deal, but I did try dipping the hamburger in the ketchup to add a little flavor. Did it taste like ketchup? Well, no…but at least they’re trying.

The fried chicken piece I was given was a medium-sized thigh—a nice compromise between the malnourished birds you sometimes get in Vietnam and the ‘roid-juiced pieces at KFC in the U.S. It was a solid offering, with tasty seasonings and a moist interior. The breading became a little soggy on the drive home, but that’s hard to avoid in this climate. If I had to choose, I’d go with the chicken tenders at Jollibee over this one, but you could do far worse.

From my research at Lotteria and Jollibee, I’ve come to one main conclusion: Vietnamese fast food places know how to do fried chicken. This shouldn’t come as a surprise; the concept is much less foreign to the cuisine than the idea of a hamburger. If you find yourself stuck in one of these places for a meal, ordering some variety of ga ran is probably your safest bet. Whatever you do, stay away from the spaghetti (see Jollibee), and I wouldn’t recommend the hamburgers either.

And in related news, here’s a picture of the Jollibee and The Astronomer. He’s the most flirtatious bee we’ve ever encountered.

Pepperonis

I’ve been wanting to try Pepperonis restaurant in Saigon for a while. This Hong Kong-based “Italian” chain sells a wide range of pizza and pasta, but they’re known in particular for their cheap lunch and dinner buffets. As recently as two years ago, you could gain access to an endless supply of pastas and salads for a mere 28,000 VND. While this price has since increased (along with the cost of everything else in Vietnam), the 42,000 VND lunch buffet is still quite a deal.

On a recent visit to Hanoi, I happened to walk past a Pepperonis branch on the way to my hotel from the airport shuttle stop. Although I typically resolve to eat nothing but novel northern Vietnamese delicacies when I visit the capital, on this day I was in the mood for something different. I had followed up a longish run in the morning with a meager breakfast, and after skipping out on the disgusting sandwich on my Vietnam Airlines flight, I was unusually hungry. In these situations, there’s something about stuffing yourself with Italian pasta that just hits the spot—Vietnamese food can’t quite match it. Besides, I couldn’t see myself dragging The Gastronomer to an all-you-can-eat luncheon of questionable quality during our final two weeks in Saigon. It seemed appropriate to go at it alone.

It was 12:55 PM when I stepped inside. The advertised lunch buffet hours were 11:30-1:30, so there was no time to dawdle. I chose a seat upstairs by the window (might as well give my camera a fighting chance), grabbed a plate, and headed back downstairs to the buffet. It wasn’t the most impressive spread I’ve seen… just one table of entrees in metal cafeteria-style tins, and one table of salads with slightly more appealing presentation. The selection was also a bit strange—I had been hoping for a choice of several pasta shapes and a nice range of sauces, but I was instead presented with a mismatched hodgepodge of Vietnamese and Western food.

I threw caution to the wind and started filling my plate with a little bit of everything. The end result didn’t look so hot, but I was ready to eat. I started with some glass noodles from the salad table. These definitely came from the Vietnamese end of the spectrum. Dressed with a sweet, nuoc mam-based sauce, they were tasty, if not exactly what I had come for. I grabbed some corn on the cob, which was terrible—cold and slathered with way too much butter. I struggled to finish two small sections.

Things began looking up with a carrot and daikon salad. A classic Vietnamese goi with peanuts and herbs, it looked like do chua but wasn’t sour. I also sampled an excellent baked pasta—a bit like lasagna but with made with spaghetti and lacking runny cheese. This one confused me at first, but I eventually identified it as the baked Bolognese from the menu. It was really satisfying—different than anything I had eaten in months.

I rounded off plate #1 with some stir-fried vegetables on rice. They were solid, with lots of onions (not too raw) and a hint of lemongrass, but it was a super-weird thing to eat after the baked Bolognese. The words, “What am I doing?” came to mind.

Nevertheless, I was still hungry, and it was nearly 1:15. I went back for plate #2. I came back with more goi (ironically probably my favorite dish of them all), some penne with white sauce, a section of veggie lasagna, and chicken curry with rice. The penne was a huge disappointment. Since it was the closest thing to my original vision for the meal available, I filled up a full half-plate with it, but the sauce was bland and tasted too much like pure cream with a hint of mushrooms. The veggie lasagna turned out to actually be potatoes au gratin, or perhaps some other creamy dish with potatoes, onions, and herbs. It was decent, but it didn’t leave me yearning for more.

The chicken curry was probably pretty good, but this time the shock of the transition from creamy pastas to Vietnamese food was too much. I was getting full, and I just wasn’t in the mood anymore. This had to be one of the strangest meals I’d ever eaten.

It was almost 1:30, so I went back for one more helping of my favorites—the carrot and daikon salad and the baked Bolognese. I finished off the meal with some papaya chunks from the dwindling fruit salad. I had eaten too fast, but I felt alright. I had found a few winners among the selection of mediocre offerings, and I had satisfied my curiosity about Pepperonis. It’s not so different from one of the cheap pizza/hoagie/pasta joints in Pennsylvania (albeit with a bizarre Vietnamese twist), or perhaps the Swarthmore dining hall on a good day. Clearly somebody likes it—according to their business card, there are 5(!) locations in Hanoi. Guess it wasn’t such a coincidence that I ran into one.

Abè @ Serendra Mall

After a 2.5 hour bus ride, we finally arrived at the bus station in Puerto Princessa. In a hurry to catch a flight back to Manila, we immediately hopped on a tricycle and zoomed to the airport. We landed in Manila in the early evening and since our flight back to Saigon wasn’t for a couple of hours, we grabbed a cab and headed to Abè for dinner.

Abè, like all of Manila’s dining gems, is located inside a mall. Since we didn’t have a reservation and all of the tables inside were taken, we dined alfresco. Abè (pronounced AH-Beh) specializes in Kapampangan recipes from the province of Pampanga. The area is famous for creating some of the tastiest meals and desserts in the country.

Dinner started off with a green mango and bagoon salad (95 PP). The unripe mangoes were crisp and sour and topped with a deeply flavorful salted shrimp paste that reminded all of us of our dear friend, mam tom. I think I was the only one who really appreciated the combination of tart fruit with a savory fermented sauce.

I arrived in the Philippines only knowledgeable about two Pinoy dishes—lumpia and pancit. During my weeklong stay in the country, I had my fair share of pancit, but not a lone lumpia. I made up for lost time at Abè. The restaurant served both fresh and fried ones, so we ordered one of each. The fried ones (129 PP) tasted no different from Chinese eggrolls, especially with the red wine vinegar sauce. The stuffing included carrots, cabbages and not a trace of meat.

The fresh lumpia (129 PP) was stuffed with pork and woodear mushrooms, wrapped in a pancake and topped with crushed peanuts and hoisin sauce. The dish’s composition and presentation reminded me of the classic Chinese take-out dish moo shu pork.

Another dish that we couldn’t leave the Philippines without trying was kare kare (475 PP)—a peanuty stew made with oxtail. The peanut sauce veered toward bland, but it was paired with a fermented shrimp paste to add a bit of zing. The oxtail skin was incredibly decadent.

The Mutton Adobo with Popped Garlic (395 PP) was everyone’s favorite. The meat was tender as can be and the seasonings were simple and satisfying. We were a bit confused by the “popped garlic” bit, but with meat this good, we let it slide.

One last garlic rice (60 PP). I adore this stuff!

For dessert we shared a Halo Halo (120 PP), which means “mix mix” in Tagalog. It is a popular Filipino dessert that is a mixture of shaved ice, milk, boiled sweet beans and fruits, served cold in a tall glass or bowl. The halo halo was topped with a combination of leche flan, ube halaya and ice cream. Condensed milk was poured into the mixture upon serving.

The leche flan was the best part!

Well-fed and smiley.

On our way to Abè for dinner, I spied a cute little bakery called Cupcakes by Sonja. I made a mental note to return after our meal because I’m a total sucker for cupcakes even though they’re disgustingly trendy.

Nina picked up a handful of delights for The Boyfriend as a peace offering for ditching him for a week, while I scooped up a simple yellow cake number with chocolate frosting. The cake was dry and the chocolate frosting’s texture was granular. Unimpressed, I took two bites and gave my leftovers to our cabbie. The loveliest cupcakes in all of the land are at Magnolia Bakery in New York City.

And that wraps up our tour of the Philippines!


Abè
G/F Selendra, Retailer Area Bonifacio
Global City, Taguig City
Phone: (632) 856-0526
Website: www.ljcrestaurants.com.ph

Flying to Palawan & Dinner at Kinabuchs

For the remainder of our stay in the Philippines, we wanted nothing more than to while our days away swimming in clear turquoise waters and lounging on white sand beaches. We hopped another bargain basement / bare bones flight aboard Cebu Pacific to Palawan to make our dreams of paradise come true.

Palawan is an island province of the Philippines located in the Southern Tagalog region. Its capital is Puerto Princesa City and it is the largest province in terms of land area. The islands of Palawan stretch from Mindoro to Borneo in the southwest. It lies between the South China Sea in the northwest and Sulu Sea in the southeast. The province is named after its largest island, Palawan Island.

Palawan, the only Philippine island cited, is rated by National Geographic Traveler magazine as the best island destination in East and Southeast Asia region in 2007, and the 13th best island in the world

We landed in Puerto Princessa late in the afternoon and were greeted by a bright-ass Jeepney. Sadly, our hotel picked us up in a mini-van, so we didn’t get to hop on board the Dolce Vita.

After we arrived at our hotel, The Astronomer and I went on our first decent run in days. The hotel staffers told us there was a beach nearby—Pristine Beach—so we decided to check it out and get in some good mileage. Maybe we saw Pristine on an off day, but it didn’t look so hot. Check out Nina’s shot.

Next, we walked to Kinabuchs Grill & Bar for dinner.

The special at Kinabuch is crispy pata—deep fried pork leg!!! The deep-frying leaves the skin crispy (hence, its name), the meat tender and the collagen oozy. We all agreed that the pork was fabulous, but could have used a sweet sauce like the one served with lechon. Nina snapped an especially unflattering picture of me gorging on some trotters. I’m a caveman!

An eggplant dish that’s less photogenic than Indian food. I’m usually able to recall what’s in a dish by looking at its picture, but this time it’s just not coming to me. Believe me when I say that this eggplant number tasted 1,000 times better than it looked (the restaurant was dimly lit). The Astronomer, a loather of eggplant, ate it up.

For the carbohydrate portion of our meal, we opted for the Pancit Canton even though we weren’t even close to tired of garlic rice. The noodles were really good and tasted like they were heavily influenced by the Chinese. However, I think the slices of white bread atop the noodles are a 100% Pinoy touch.

Our other protein was sizzling squid! They tasted a bit spicy and a lot delicious. The world needs more sizzling platters.

On our walk back to the hotel, we stopped by a bakery to sample some local sweets.

We all shared a slice of white cake frosted with dulce de leche and sprinkled with peanuts. I requested a corner piece to maximize the ratio of cake to frosting. The cake was more than a touch dry, so I stuck to eating the sugary frosting.

Kinabuchs Grill & Bar
348 Rizal Avenue
Puerto Princessa City