Archive for the 'Com Chien' Category

Eating in Nha Trang III

On our final day in Nha Trang, we did a bit of sightseeing and mud bathing. We spent the morning hours seeking out the city’s famous giant Buddha, but stumbled upon a small Buddha first.

Fat, peaceful and happy.

We’re getting closer—the giant Buddha from afar.

At last! We found the giant Buddha.

The temple grounds were adorned with signs engraved with the Buddha’s teachings. This one was one of my favorites—speak like the Buddha, think I like Buddha, work like the Buddha.

Before jetting off to the mud baths, we bought some xoi chien to snack on. They were filled with “meat” that resembled the stuff Taco Bell serves up. Texturally interesting, but not all that tasty.

After our therapeutic mud session, we bought some good ‘ol banh mi and swam in the ocean one last time before catching our flight back to Saigon.

For dessert, Matt and I shared a caramel sundae from an ice cream shop by our hotel. The whipped cream tasted like artificial butter flavoring, which we liked a lot.

Just as we landed in Saigon, I received a call from Ba Sau (my grandma’s sister) inviting me over for dinner. When Ba Sau calls, I always oblige. We ate a lotus stem salad with shrimp and pork…

Cha gio...

Xoi gac!

Fried rice…

And chicken curry with rice vermicelli noodles. I am one lucky girl.

Eating in Nha Trang II

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We started off day two with complimentary breakfast from our hotel. I ordered a pineapple crepe and a banana smoothie. The crepe was all sorts of bland so I dipped it in The Astronomer’s honey, which made it much better. After we finished breakfast, we headed off on a snorkeling tour!

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The Astronomer and I had such an awesome time on our snorkeling tour in Phu Quoc, that we had to sign up for another one in Nha Trang. While I usually dislike tours, I think that snorkeling ones are wonderful because there’s usually lots of interesting people to meet, beautiful sites to see, and good food to be had.

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The Astronomer loves being out in the open sea. Just look at him—the boy is deliriously happy. The coral along the islands off the coast of Nha Trang weren’t as colorful as the ones in Phu Quoc, but we still had a great time swimming and floating around. The Vietnamese girls on our tour liked to squeal before getting into the water. What a riot.

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After snorkeling, we were served lunch on board. This here is shark with tomatoes. Shark, as you can imagine, is a meaty fish.

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The squid with pineapple was my favorite. The squid was much more tender than what we had for dinner the first night.

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I ate two plates of tofu with tomatoes by myself. I just love how deep-fried tofu soaks up flavors like a sponge.

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I used the fish forcemeat with black peppercorns (cha ca) and a baguette to make a lovely sandwich.

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Matt says that the shrimps were damn good, but I was too lazy to take the shells off. Lame, right? Sorry.

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I did not try the ramen noodles with vegetables because I was too busy eating tofu and baguettes.

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Now this is my kinda dessert. These types of bananas are called chuoi gia, which means old bananas. They taste very similar to the ones the U.S. imports from South America.

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After lunch we were treated to live music! This was THE best part of the whole trip. I had an especially good time because they honored my requests and played both “Hotel California” and “My Heart Will Go On.” Eee!

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Who has four thumbs and loves cover bands? These guys!

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After the concert, the crew busted out the floating bar and handed everyone a bottle of wine. A boy from Australia got super drunk and made out with a British girl. I never thought I would encounter such shenanigans post-college, but I guess we’re never too old to whoop it up!

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Good friends sharing a bottle of wine on the open sea.

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A slightly tipsy Astronomer swimming back to the boat.

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And just in case you wanted to drink what we drank—the wine is from Dalat and made of mulberries. Look for it the next time you’re at Beverages and More.

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Once everyone was thoroughly wasted, we had a fruit party! We invited all of our bestest friends—pineapple, watermelon, oranges, dragon fruit, guava and even water apples.

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Our last stop before heading home was the Nha Trang aquarium. This unagi looks more scary than delicious.

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Shark.

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After our day of snorkeling fun, we returned to our hotel and went for a run. Later that evening, we walked around town in search of dinner. “Spaghetti Street” was calling our names, but we passed. We ended up at another seafood emporium because I didn’t do proper research before my trip.

Our first course was a plate of onion rings. These were sliced really thinly and battered lightly. I prefer fatty onion rings with a thick panko crust like the ones at Buddakan.

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Our main course was a deliciously prepared fish with woodear mushrooms and glass noodles. Mmm boy.

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I ate the fish straight up, but The Astronomer chose to wrap it properly with rice paper, green mangoes, cucumbers, herbs and lettuce.

We closed out the night with some fried rice. It tasted just like my mama’s, minus the Chinese sausage.

Bánh Khọt

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March 27, 2008
Cuisine: Vietnamese

59B Cao Thang Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8323312
Website: none

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Bánh khọt thập cẩm - miniature fried pancakes sampler platter (30,000 VND)

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Cơm gà rôti - rotisserie chicken with fried rice (35,000 VND)

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Gởi mục Thái Lan - Thailand-style squid salad (70,000 VND)

The Astronomer and I finally made our way to Co Ba Vung Tau the other week to try the bánh khọt Wandering Chopsticks raved about. Bánh khọt are a specialty of the southern coastal city of Vung Tau and taste quite a bit like banh xeo due to their similar batters and accouterments.

Co Ba Vung Tau offers four different varieties of bánh khọt—shrimp, pork, oyster and cha ca (fish loaf). Since this was our first time trying the dish, we hedged our bets and ordered a sampler platter that included a few of each kind. To round out our meal, I went for a squid salad, while The Astronomer went for some chicken with rice.

The bánh khọt were delivered along with a large basket of herbs and greens. After our waitress poured some nuoc mam from a giant pitcher (pictured above) into our individual bowls, we proceeded to eat the bánh khọt just as Graham of Noodlepie advised:

Take a leaf (lettuce or mustard) and sling in a couple of herbs and pickles along with the bánh khọt itself. Make a small parcel and dip into the plain nuoc mam. Depending on the size of your gob and/or how much of a fat bastard you are, each green parcel should take around three bites to fully consume. It’s green ‘n’ lean and airyfairy enough that one diner could stuff in all eight cakes with ease.

Bánh khọt are simultaneously “airyfairy” and crispy. The Astronomer and I each ate four and could have easily downed twice as many if we hadn’t ordered the other dishes. We both liked the oyster bánh khọt best because of its intense flavor. Unlike the shrimp, pork and fish cake bánh khọt, the oyster variety could hold up against the nuoc mam and shrubbery. The texture of bánh khọt is really something special.

Although we came for the bánh khọt, the dish that really stood out was the squid salad. The pieces of squid were plentiful, fresh as can be and unbelievably tender. Ever since we indulged in the finest squid in the world during our trip to Phu Quoc last November, we’ve become quite the squid snobs. The squid salad at Co Ba Vung Tau magically transported us back to the sunny shores of Phu Quoc.

The Astronomer’s rotisserie chicken with rice was also well-executed. The buttery fried rice contained bits of scallions and eggs and tasted indulgent compared to the plain jasmine The Astronomer has grown accustomed to. The chicken was moist, crispy skinned and dressed in a five-spice marinade.

Saigon River Dinner Cruise

During our year-long stay in Vietnam, The Astronomer and I are working for a humanitarian organization called East Meets West. We reported to our first day of work on August 1st. In my brief employment history, my first day at East Meets West goes down as the best. We started off by talking to our boss Rad for an hour or two, then we wrote one-pagers about our interests and skills, and then we went on a site visit to two hospitals (one public and one semi-private). At the hospitals, we met some children who are benefiting from East Meets West’s program, “Operation Healthy Heart.” As if that weren’t exciting enough, later that evening we went out to dinner with Rad’s family and a visiting doctor from the states.

At around 7 PM we boarded a boat resembling a giant fish on the Saigon River for an evening of fine dining and entertainment. We relaxed and left the ordering to Mrs. Rad. The Astronomer and I both opted for Soda Chanh (lime juice, sugar, soda water) to start. Even though I avoid drinking my calories in America, I’m branching out while in Vietnam because the water quality is poor.

We started off with a crab and white asparagus soup that reminded me of Aunt Tina’s seafood soup served at my family’s Christmas gatherings. Following the soup were some wonderful cha gio (egg rolls), which I dipped in fish sauce to add a little zing. The Astronomer consumed six egg rolls and would have eaten more, but he didn’t want to look too piggish in front of our hosts. Our final appetizer was goi tom thit (salad with pork and shrimp) served with shrimp chips. The salad was especially delicious this evening because I had gone through so many days without fresh vegetables.

Our main dishes included steamed giant prawns, bo luc lac (steak with French Fries), chicken with oyster mushrooms, fried rice, and rau (greens). The prawns were a bitch to peel and sorta tasteless; the cost to benefit ratio was low to negative. The steak and fries were a garlicky treat, especially dipped in some catsup. The steak was the tastiest well-done meat I’ve had in ages. I was completely stuffed by the time the chicken arrived, so I only ate some mushrooms. The fried rice was seasoned to perfection and the greens were good as well, but both arrived a little late in the game. All in all, the food on the boat was top-notch. We’re looking forward to taking The Astronomer’s family on board when they visit in December.

A meal on a fish-shaped boat would not be complete without some hip gyration and pyrotechnics. How does she do that?

Fancy Shmancy: Sen, Phở 24, Bánh Cuốn Lá

Transitioning from American food to Vietnamese street food was a lot more difficult than I anticipated. During our first two days in Saigon, The Astronomer and I stayed in our comfort zones and ate at restaurants heavily influenced by Western aesthetics. The tables were far off the ground, menus contained English translations and set prices, walls were painted vibrant colors, floors were spotless, waiters donned matching uniforms, and napkins were readily available. The only thing Vietnamese about these joints was the cuisine. Even though we felt like schmucks paying higher prices for superficiality, we clung to the safety of the familiar.

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Our first experience in Vietnamese “haute” cuisine was at Sen - Hue Restaurant. By the way, Sen refers to the lotus flower that grows throughout Vietnam. After receiving Free Hugs from giddy teen girls on our first morning in the city, The Astronomer was hungry for a second breakfast. He liked what he read on the menu placed outside Sen, so we headed in and were seated at a smallish table for two.

What stood out most about Sen was their tableware - plates, bowls, cups, spoons, and dishes all contained the purple Sen logo and were glazed a serene green. Such attention to detail was a bit unnerving, but admittedly appealing. The Astronomer ordered Bun Thit Nuong (vermicelli noodles with grilled pork) and thought it comparable to versions he’s had in the states. Even though he was warned incessantly by guidebooks and his mother to avoid fresh vegetables, he went ahead and ate the greens accompanying the bun.

Sen had a Happy Hour special during our visit and thus we received a free dessert, Che Troi Nuoc. Traditionally, this dessert consists of gelatinous balls filled with sweet mung beans, but Sen’s version contained a beef and shrimp mixture. The balls sat in a gingery broth and were topped with toasted sesame seeds. The che was very good, but I prefer the mung bean version.

We ended our meal with lotus blossom tea and candied ginger. The total cost of this meal was $4.08.

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Our second foray into fancy Saigon dining was at Pho 24, which boasts over 200 locations throughout Vietnam and South East Asia. I ordered pho tai sach (beef noodle soup with tripe), while The Astronomer had pho tai (no tripe). Our bowls of pho were pretty wimpy compared to the enormous bowls served in America, but the quality was superb and the broth was so good that we slurped it all up. Our pho’s accompaniments (limes, bean sprouts, basil, etc.) were served on a square plate! My bowl of pho was priced at $1.25 (20,000 VND), while The Astronomer’s was $1.10. Dirt cheap by American standards, but moderate on the Vietnam scale.

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Our final fancy feast was at Banh Cuon La. Craving fruit like no other, I ordered com chien trai cay (fried rice with fruits). The rice contained watermelon, apples, and carrots and was topped with slices of strawberries. I added a bit of soy sauce to bring out the fruits’ sweetness. Although fried rice with fruits sounds a bit odd, it’s really very tasty.

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The Astronomer ordered banh cuon thit cha bong (thin rice flour crepes with dried pork) and a sinh to dau (strawberry smoothie). The banh cuon was good, but the meager portion left The Astronomer hungry—one American trend yet to catch on in Saigon is giant portions. The strawberry smoothie was a refreshing treat.