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Ruth Reichl’s Old Fashioned Lemon Pudding Cake

Published by Gastronomer on May 11, 2012 in Dessert, Pudding + Custard and Recipe. 8 Comments

When Ruth Reichl tells you to bake a Lemon Pudding Cake, the only proper response is, “I’ll preheat the oven!”

Even though I had never before tasted an old fashioned pudding cake, I immediately bookmarked this recipe when it was featured on her blog back in March. Ms. Reichl has a lovely way with words, and the way she described this classic dessert as “part cake, part souffle, a little bit pudding” sounded absolutely irresistible to me.

With only six ingredients on the docket and little prep required, this Lemon Pudding Cake comes together in a relative snap. The only really daunting part is waiting the full 45 minutes for it to bake up nice and golden. I made the cake as the grand finale to our recent anniversary dinner, and The Astronomer and I could not have been more satisfied with the results.

The whipped egg whites created a souffle-like effect, while the egg yolks anchored everything in a tangy pool of lemon curd. In between the two strata was an ever-so-light layer of cake. We dug in with two spoons just as soon as it came out of the oven. It may have singed our tongues and the roofs of our mouths a little, but man, it was worth it. Pudding cake is overdue for a comeback.

3 lemons
3 large eggs
1 1/3 cup milk
3/4 cup sugar, divided
Salt
1/4 cup cake or all purpose flour

Preheat the oven to 350.

Grate the zest from 3 lemons, then squeeze the juice. You should have about 1/2 cup.

Separate 3 large eggs. Add the lemon juice and zest to the yolks, then whisk in 1 1/3 cup of milk. Slowly add 1/2 cup of sugar, a dash of salt, and 1/4 cup of flour.

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Hae Jang Chon – Los Angeles (Koreatown)

Published by Gastronomer on May 9, 2012 in All U Can Eat, BBQ, Korean, Koreatown, Los Angeles and Restaurant Review. 7 Comments

For the nominal price of $17.99 per person, Hae Jang Chon provided my cousins, The Astronomer, and me with an all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue feast that was so stupendous that it left our clothes and pores imbued with smoke and meat for days.

What set this barbecue emporium apart from others that I have visited in Koreatown [See: Don Day, Don Dae Gam, Tahoe Galbi] was the smooth stone grill used in place of the more common metal grates.

According to the restaurant’s website, the stone grill is ”nature’s best cooking surface.” It “produces various healthy minerals,” “absorbs and decomposes heavy metal ions,” and best of all, “absorbs excessive oil to bring out the exquisite taste of pork.” I don’t know if any of these claims are actually true, but I am sold nevertheless.

Another one of the restaurant’s notable touches was the homey tablescape that was neatly set before we were seated. Each place setting included an array of condiments in addition to silverware and plates. I went through two dishes of the fermented bean paste during the meal because meat just tastes better with a hit of salty funk.

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Hủ Tiếu Mì – Vietnamese Pork Noodle Soup

Published by Gastronomer on May 7, 2012 in Family Recipe, Hu Tieu Dai, Hu Tieu My Tho, Hu Tieu Nam Vang, Mi / Hu Tieu Bo Vien, Recipe, Vietnamese and Vietnamese. 11 Comments

One of my culinary goals this year was to stop being such a wuss about preparing Vietnamese noodle soups at home. Four months and some change into 2012, I’m stoked to have mastered Bò Kho (Vietnamese beef stew), Bún Riêu Cua (Vietnamese crab and tomato soup), and most recently, Hủ Tiếu Mì (Vietnamese Pork Noodle Soup).

This most recent accomplishment coincided with my eldest cousin moving into town. Hủ Tiếu Mì is his absolute favorite noodle soup, and he requested that I make a huge vat of it just as soon as he arrived. He also asked for wontons to go with it, but that will be for another time. I need to concentrate on and conquer one dish at a time.

To learn the ins and outs of this Chinese-influenced noodle soup, I sought assistance from my aunt Thao. Something that she mentioned more than once was the importance of having a clear soup. To achieve this, the pork bones used to make the broth needs to boiled and cleaned, and one has to be diligent about skimming off any fat or foam that rises to the surface. Clear broth. Full bellies. Can’t lose.

This recipe makes about a dozen bowls worth, which is just about perfect in my mind. My cousin came over twice for dinner along with his fiancee and took leftovers for breakfast the following morning. Making a tremendous amount of food and having family over to enjoy it made me feel like I was continuing our family’s great tradition of nourishing and over-stuffing. This is what Vietnamese food is all about.

For broth

6 pounds pork bones (neck or spine—Grandma says that spine is tastiest)
1 daikon, peeled, trimmed, and cut in half or thirds
1 cup dried shrimp or 2 dried cuttlefish
7 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 tablespoon monosodium glutamate (optional)

For toppings and garnish

1.5 pounds ground pork
1.5 pounds pork shoulder/butt
2 bunch scallions, chopped
Salt
Pepper

For noodles

2 pounds thin or wide egg noodles (mì) or wide rice noodles (hủ tiếu), prepared according to directions on package

Make broth

Place the pork bones in a large stockpot. Fill the stockpot with enough water to cover the surface of the bones and bring to a boil. The pork bones will have some impurities that need to be washed away, so once the water comes to a boil, discard it and collect the bones in a colander.

One by one, rinse the bones to remove any scum. The cleaner the bones, the clearer the broth will be.

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Red Curry Peanut Noodles

Published by Gastronomer on May 4, 2012 in Asian Fusion, Pasta + Rice, Recipe and Vegetarian. 12 Comments

The Astronomer and I have been staying up later than usual these past few nights securing restaurant reservations in London and France for our European jaunt this summer. Skype-ing in French and stalking Open Table when we should be sleeping has been simultaneously exhilarating and exhausting.

While our dining itinerary isn’t completely settled (there are a few elusive restaurants that I’m still hoping to rope in), we are guaranteed a nose to tail feast in London, exquisite escargots and souffles in Paris, and wines of all stripes at every lunch and dinner. This trip is going to be epic.

In preparation for what will surely be two-and-a-half weeks of non-stop indulging, I’m making a greater effort to eat healthily at home in the month and a half leading up to the trip. This recipe for Red Curry Peanut Noodles from the February 2008 issue of Food & Wine is the latest addition to my solid lineup of meatless meals that pack a satisfying punch.

Peanut noodles are terrific straight up, but add in a few tablespoons of fiery red curry paste and everything gets turned up to eleven. Perking up the noodles is a saucy blend of peanut butter, cilantro, lemongrass, chilies, garlic, galangal, and kaffir lime. The original recipe calls for just bean sprouts and carrots, but I’ve added tofu, red peppers, and edamame too to kick up the nutrition quotient.

Even though I’m buckling down on my eating habits these next few weeks, I still insist that everything that passes through these lips be delicious. Red Curry Peanut Noodles—it’s just what my taste buds and waistline ordered.

1 pound whole-wheat spaghetti
1 package extra firm tofu (approximately 19 ounces)
Vegetable oil
3/4 cup peanut butter (smooth or chunky)
1 lime, juiced
2 tablespoon red curry paste
2/3 cup chicken or vegetable broth
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons packed cilantro leaves
Kosher salt
1 red bell pepper, julienned
12 ounces shelled edamame, prepared according to package directions
2 scallions, white and green parts quartered and thinly sliced lengthwise
1 carrot, coarsely grated
1 cup mung bean sprouts (2 1/2 ounces)
1/3 cup salted, roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
Lime wedges, for serving

In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the spaghetti until it is al dente. Drain the spaghetti and rinse under cold water until cool. Drain very well and set aside.

Cut the tofu into 1/2-inch cubes and lay on paper towels to absorb excess moisture. On medium-high heat, saute the tofu in 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil for 2-3 minutes on each side to lightly sear the outside and heat the inside. Set aside.

Meanwhile, in a food processor, combine the peanut butter with the lime juice, red curry paste, stock, and 1/4 cup of the cilantro leaves and puree. Season the sauce with salt.

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Milo & Olive – Los Angeles (Santa Monica)

Published by Gastronomer on May 1, 2012 in Bakery, Los Angeles, Pizza, Restaurant Review and Santa Monica. 7 Comments

Zoe Nathan and Josh Loeb didn’t intend to open a pizzeria when they scooped up the space at 2723 Wilshire Boulevard. The initial plan was to use the kitchen to relieve the overworked ovens at Huckleberry, their bustling bakery and cafe a mile away.

But one thing led to another, a pizza dough was developed and a wood-burning Mugnaini oven was installed, and thus, Milo & Olive came to be. Milo, by the way, is the name of the couple’s son. Olive, on the other hand, is just a name that they really liked.

Milo & Olive’s stupendously good pastries, seasonal small plates, and delightful pizzas are reason enough to visit, but it took Chef Walter Manzke taking over the stoves to get me and my friends to finally come in. The former Church & State chef and soon-to-be chef-owner of République is temporarily overseeing the kitchen since executive chef Evan Funke departed.

The menu hasn’t changed much since his arrival and probably won’t for the most part. According to Chef, he’s mostly here to keep the kitchen organized and to make sure that the food is up to snuff.

With only 24 seats in the restaurant and no reservations taken, our party of three faced a 45 minute wait when we arrived sometime past 7 on a weekday evening. After strolling up the street and grabbing drinks at The Charleston, we were seated at one of the communal tables.

To start, we shared a petite serving of marinated artichokes ($11) minimally adorned with baby spinach, toasted pine nuts, capers, golden raisins, and goat cheese.

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