My heart sank when I heard that Teresa Montaño was closing Racion, her six-year-old Basque restaurant in Pasadena. The Astronomer and I adored her cooking and were sad to see the place go. Fortunately, the chef has found a new home in Highland Park with Otoño, which opened last August.

The narrow restaurant was filled to capacity when my girlfriend Liz and I came in for a weeknight dinner. With every stool taken at the bar and every seat occupied in the dining room, it’s plain to see that the neighborhood is stoked for the chef’s Spanish-inspired fare.

To start, a glass of sangria for each of us ($12 each). Liz honed in on the “Los Angeles” with rosé, cucumber, passion fruit, and amaro, while I picked the “Madrid” with red wine, brandy, orange, coffee, and cacao. My sangria, wonderfully savory and balanced, was so seriously good that I haven’t been able to stop thinking about it since.

We nibbled on delicate ribbons of jamón Iberico de Bellota ($20) as we sipped our sangrias and reminisced about Spanish adventures of yesteryear. Ah, memories…

There were quite a few memorable dishes this evening, but the boquerones y mantequilla ($12) was the most exciting with its palate-pleasing combination that defied expectations.

Pickled fresh white anchovies—meaty and tangy as all get out—were paired with whipped butter punctuated with tuna and anchovy. The oily and oceanic ingredients, carefully propped and slathered atop crusty loaves of Bub and Grandma’s bread, exemplified flare and funk.

The pan con tomate ($6) was also terrific, with its toasty sourdough base and grated tomato, garlic, olive oil, and sea salt treatment. So simple, so good.

The gambas a la plantxa ($18), griddled blue prawns with cherry tomatoes, garlic, and Brandy de Jerez, did not disappoint. By the time we were through, the only thing that remained on the plate were the blackened shrimp tails.

The wild scallop crudo ($16) with fennel, parsnip, and ocean broth boasted the butteriest of textures and the most refreshing of flavors.

The setas en escabeche ($10), house-cured wild mushrooms topped with a 62° quail egg, were awesomely tangy. Did you hear? Tins are so hot right now.

By the time the paella arrived, Liz and I were tapped for gastro-real estate. Still, we couldn’t resist the negra tinta ($32) with its expertly formed socarrat and perfectly seared scallops topped with chorizo. The dollops of lemon cream were almost too rich for their own good.

And finally, a bowlful of crema Catalana ($10), a jiggly custard topped with candied kumquats and crunchy cacao nibs.

This meal stayed with me long after it was over, with memorable dishes replaying in my head and begging to be revisited. Dinner at Otoño was fist-pumpingly superb, and I can’t wait to return.

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Otoño
5715 North Figueroa Street
Los Angeles, CA 90042
Phone: 323- 474-6624

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