If I were the kind of monogamous diner that frequented the same restaurants time and again, I’d totally be a regular at Manuela. Located in the Hauser & Wirth complex in the Arts District, the restaurant has everything I want — thoughtful cooking that balances flavor and freshness, all served in an urban yet serene space.

I came in for lunch a few months back and was taken by Chef Kris Tominaga’s cooking, which draws inspiration from Southern ingredients and traditions, along with California’s produce and a distinct culinary point of view.

To start, a light and refreshing Gulf pink shrimp aguachile with avocado, radish, ginger, lime, and benne seeds ($18). The vegetable chips served on the side provided a fine vehicle.

Certain smells and flavors have a way of bringing back food memories, and one slurp of the barbecued oysters ($15) instantly transported me to the crowded shores of Tomales Bay — the home of Hog Island Oyster Co. The grilled bivalves arrived punctuated with Calabrian chili butter and Parmesan, creating a profile that teetered between briny and spicy, rich and balanced.

Also fantastic was the burrata with smoked trout roe, cherry tomatoes, perilla salt, and grilled toast ($19). Nearly every restaurant in town serves some version of this mild and gooey cheese, but this version stood out with its oceanic flourish.

Years ago, Chef Tominaga baked these cream biscuits at Hart and the Hunter, and now they’re back at Manuela ($11). Served with Steen’s butter and Col. Newsom’s aged country ham, the biscuits were as flaky and rich as ever.

The heftiest dish on the table was the grass-fed beef tartare with capers, garden greens, and garlic toast ($18); a straightforward take on a classic.

To round out our lunchtime feast was an order of wood-grilled okra with cucumber yogurt and sumac ($12)…

…and blistered snap peas with black quinoa, sesame date butter, and feta ($12).

You’re beautiful, Manuela! Looking forward to coming in for dinner and brunch in 2020.

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Manuela
907 East 3rd Street
Los Angeles, CA 90013
Phone: 323-849-0480

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