


I didn’t mean to stay away from Vietnam for 14 years. Somewhere between work, play, and family, more than a decade whizzed by just like that. However, the moment I stepped back onto Saigon soil, it was as if no time had passed at all. The city’s singular rhythms came roaring back, from its chaotic traffic patterns to surprise afternoon downpours and constant beep-beeps of motorbikes punctuating every interaction. The energy that courses through the thành phố’s crowded boulevards and hidden corridors hooked me instantly. I couldn’t get enough.
It’s incredible how much the city has changed and yet stayed wonderfully familiar after so much time away. My fears of the Singaporification of Saigon were unfounded. The city’s modern skyline reaches new heights in every direction, while its sprawling edges are now more easily accessible via the all-new HCMC Metro. Fleets of electric motorbikes and taxis can be summoned with the touch of an app. Fine dining temples and fancy cocktail bars vie for customers alongside modest family-owned restaurants and longtime street vendors. There’s a palpable optimism in the air. Conversations flow with ease with everyone who crosses our path. The dynamism of Saigon continues to take my breath away.
Fifteen days wasn’t nearly long enough of a stay, but it’ll have to do until I live out my expat fantasies again. Experiencing it all through the fresh eyes of my 10-year-old daughter made it all the more memorable. There’s much to share from my travels, and I’m excited to do so in this space — just like the good ol’ days. The come-down after visiting Vietnam can be rough. Blogging softens the edges.
—
For Vietnamese food adventures from our 2011 trip, check out these posts:
- Saigon Classic: Bún Bò Huế Yên Đỗ
- Saigon Classic: Flaming Roadside Bánh Xèo
- Saigon Dinner Crawl: Squeaky Meatballs, Sesame Sludge, Spicy Duck Tongues, and More
- District 4, Saigon: Our Home Away From Home
- Saigon Classics: Goat Three Ways, Coconut Ice Cream, and Vietnamese Fried Chicken
- Vietnamese Steak and Eggs at Quán Lệ Hồng
- Life After Bourdain: Reuniting with the Lunch Lady
- Phở Hòa Pasteur: Phenomenally Phamous Phở
- Family Knows Best: Saigon’s Finest Bánh Mì, Glutinous Bananas, and Chicken Sticky Rice
- American Doughnuts on Saigon Soil
- Hủ Tiếu Cá – Vietnamese Fish Noodle Soup
- One Final Hurrah in Saigon: Vietnamese Crepes