Let me tell you about the torrija ($28), or Spanish French toast, served at Atelier Manna in Encinitas, California.
Chef Andrew Bachelier’s standout dish starts with an entire third of a sourdough loaf that’s locally sourced from Prager Brothers. It’s steamed until pliable, saturated with sweetened custard, soaked overnight, and baked to order. The result is a study in complementary contrasts: a sturdy, caramelized crust gives way to tender insides sopping just-so.
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