Can I tell you about the torrija, or Spanish French toast, served at Atelier Manna in Encinitas? Chef Andrew Bachelier’s standout dish starts with an entire third of a sourdough loaf, locally sourced from Prager Brothers, that’s steamed until pliable, saturated with sweetened custard, soaked overnight, and baked to order. The result is a study in complementary contrasts: a sturdy, caramelized crust gives way to tender insides sopping just-so.