My 37th birthday was largely celebrated at ROW DTLA. First came lunch with colleagues at Pikunico, followed by dessert at The Manufactory, and dinner with a girlfriend at Tartine Bianco. There is no doubt in my mind that I am the target demographic for this urban renewal development, which delights and disgusts me all at once. But here we are.

In this minimally appointed and naturally lit dining room, Chef Kuniko Yagi serves up Japanese-style fried chicken in a fast-casual setting. She previously made fancier and pricier food at the now-closed Sona in West Hollywood and at Hinoki and the Bird in Century City.

Even though the restaurant was positively buzzing at this time of day, food arrived nice and fast. I ordered the combination platter, which included a thigh, a wing, and two tenders, as well as house-made pickles. On the saucy side of things was a trio of dips: a daikon ponzu oroshi, a lemon aioli, and a parsley sesame number.

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