Just before the citywide lockdown, my girlfriend Liana and I feasted at Chad Colby’s Antico. Our meal began with a parade of nibbles — from anchovies on toast to runny ricotta cheese and grilled delicata squash — followed by fetching pastas, meat, fish, and ice creams. I waddled out of the restaurant eager to do it all over again soon. In the weeks that followed, however, the coronavirus struck and plans for return visits had to be postponed.

Fortunately, the team at Antico pivoted in brilliant fashion as the city locked down, converting into a focaccia pizza and ice cream operation seemingly overnight.

After weeks of pining for a taste, The Astronomer, June, and I made the trek to Antico on a Sunday afternoon. We placed our order and paid over the phone, and brought the two pizzas and two pints of ice cream home to eat.