When Chef Bruce Kalman decamped from the kitchen at Union, Vetri alum Christopher Keyser stepped in without missing a beat. Following in the footsteps of a beloved chef is no easy task, but when the new person in charge has a clear culinary point of view along with the passion and skills to back it up, the results can be even better than before.
Although Chef Keyser has been in charge for the past year or so, I only recently got around to coming in for dinner with June and The Astronomer. The current menu feels familiar enough for regulars, smartly retaining crowd-pleasing favorites, but there’s new energy at every turn.
First up was the burrata served with pesto rosso, mixed herbs, and crostini ($16). While The Astronomer and I fought over the scratch-made cheese, June hogged the house-made bread.