Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Restaurant Review

22 Jan 2014

Sticky Rice at Grand Central Market – Los Angeles (Downtown)

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I heart Thai food. I heart Grand Central Market. So it should come as no surprise that I heart Sticky Rice, a vibrant stall serving Thai street food inside the market.

Chef Johnny Lee (left) of Flying Pig, Rivera, and Spirit House, along with David Tewasart of Soi 7 and Spirit House, initially launched Sticky Rice as a stand at the Altadena Farmer’s Market. The two set up shop inside Grand Central last spring, and I’ve been hankering for a taste ever since.

The menu here is wonderfully succinct—three mainstays and a rotating roster of daily specials. At the suggestion of Chef Lee, The Astronomer and I started with one of the specials, yum moo yang ($9), a spicy grilled pork salad served with sticky rice.

The cool and crisp collection of herbs and vegetables paired like a dream with the charred and tender pork—my taste buds always win when warm and cold fronts collide. The dressing hit the perfect tangy, spicy note.

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Restaurant Review

20 Jan 2014

Republique – Los Angeles

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I have yet to encounter a soul in the hyper-opinionated Los Angeles food community who doesn’t adore Chef Walter Manzke‘s cooking. From his early days at Patina and Bastide, to his more recent tenures at Church & State and Petty Cash, wherever Chef goes, the accolades usually aren’t too far behind.

Late last year, Chef Manzke and his wife, Pastry Chef Margarita Manzke, joined forces with restaurateur Bill Chait to open Republique‎ in the former Campanile space. I usually give restaurants a few months to settle in before coming in for a taste, but my impatience got the best of me in this situation—I needed Chef’s signature escargots en croute, and I needed them now.

The Astronomer and I were initially seated at the communal table toward the front of the restaurant during our visit, but scored a table for two after asking the hostess nicely.

Pro Tip: My friend Darin dined on the same evening and requested seats along the Chef’s counter, which turned out to be warm but festive. (more…)

Now Closed

16 Jan 2014

Cooks County – Los Angeles

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I am currently writing from Cook County, Illinois. Chicago, to be exact, where I’m spending the week ever so delicately balancing work commitments and gastronomical pursuits. As timing would have it, I’m overdue to write about my mom’s birthday dinner at Cooks County. What a coincidence!

Opened in late 2011, Cooks County is a sweet ‘lil neighborhood spot serving up seasonal fare that comforts and delights.

The kitchen is headed by Chef Daniel Mattern. He spent time at Campanile, Lucques, AOC, and AMMO here in Los Angeles, and Clarklewis in Portland, before opening Cooks County with his partner, Pastry Chef Roxana Jullapat. She also spent time at Campanile, Lucques, AOC, AMMO, and Clarklewis. What a coincidence!

We started off the night with four appetizers. The first to arrive was the Spretzel ($3) with mustard dipping sauce. Made of spelt flour and garnished with coarse salt, the pretzel was good but not outstanding. Had it been baked to order, the pretzel would’ve really been something. The mustard, on the other hand, was excellent.

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