Do Chengdu residents eat spicy, numbing, oil-slicked delights at every meal? The Astronomer and I often wondered this during our Sichuan stay. Though we were never able to confirm locals’ dining habits, we consciously dedicated every meal to the stuff that burns, really burns, because we wanted to experience Chengdu’s cuisine to the fullest.

The spiciest meal of the trip, the one that made me feel downright intoxicated from all the chilies and peppercorns, was at Yu Yue Men Leng Guo Yu*, an emporium of communal dining.

The only dish served here is “Cold Pot Fish” (leng guo yu), a Sichuan specialty in which perfectly cooked fish fillets, usually Silver Carp, are served in a “cold” hot pot to begin; the broth’s actual temperature is lukewarm. The hot pot’s burners are turned on when all of the fish has been eaten to avoid over-cooking the fish. Then, it’s a traditional hot pot experience complete with veggies, noodles, meat, and the like!

In a futile attempt to keep the avalanche of numbing spice at bay, I sipped on Chinese Sunny-D, while The Astronomer chugged some beer.

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The Astronomer and I traversed large swaths of Chengdu seeking out all that burns, numbs, and thrills during our much-too-short stay, but it was a low-key, family-run restaurant a stone’s throw from our hotel that delighted us most.

Named after Confucian principles (ren meaning kindness and yi meaning loyalty or trust), Ren Yi Shui Jiao specializes in two of my all-time favorite foods: noodles and dumplings (shui jiao). It was the perfect spot to fuel up every morning before playing with pandas and, truth be told, fueling up elsewhere. Such is life while on vacation.

The restaurant was wonderfully quiet during the morning hours, with ladies folding dumplings in the back, cooks simmering soups in the kitchen, and solo diners burying their noses in noodles. The mood of the place made us feel relaxed, while smiles on everyone’s faces made us feel welcomed.

Ordering food was a breeze thanks to the extensive picture menu hanging near the doorway. I wanted one of everything.

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