Mar 2009

Cookoff: Recipe Fever in America – Amy Sutherland

About: In this engrossing look at the competitive cooking circuit, journalist Sutherland follows the trail of competitions and a small group of regular participants. These often fanatical competitors, complete with their own websites and chat rooms, square off against the amateur one-time-only contenders at local and national levels across the country. With a healthy dose of humor, Sutherland conveys the inside stories and nail-biting moments as the regulars face off. From developing recipes to matching serving wear to outfits, the bravado of the male players and the disasters and pitfalls that can ensue for both regular and amateur alike, this work takes a long, thorough look at this American phenomenon. From chili contests that are more like frat parties to the National Chicken and National Beef competitions, Sutherland crisscrosses the country and along the way conveys her growing enthusiasm for and fascination with why one recipe or dish wins and another loses. She intersperses winning recipes with the account of her own growing delight, which leads her to enter a competition herself. Doing for cookoffs what Anthony Bourdain did for the restaurant business with Kitchen Confidential, Sutherland delivers a wonderful portrait of a true slice of Americana that should have readers reaching for their recipe files and saying, “I can do that.” From Publishers Weekly.

My Thoughts: I stumbled upon this book while rummaging through an excellent bookstore in St. Louis. After perusing the introduction, which is aptly entitled “Start Your Ovens,” I was completely hooked. As soon as I arrived home from my trip, I requested the book from my public library; it couldn’t have arrived soon enough.

The competitive cooking circuit is a wild, wild place. The subculture’s major players, also known as Contesters, are full of intense and creative energy. Some especially dedicated Contesters are known to prepare 10+ complex dishes in a single day in hopes of winning a couple of blue ribbons at the Iowa State Fair. The most hardcore Contesters invent and test 40+ recipes in hopes of qualifying for the holy grail of cookoffs—the Pillsbury Bake-Off—where the grand prize totals a million dollars! Sutherland’s deft storytelling guides readers through this wacky world of cookoffs in very entertaining fashion.

In addition to profiling the Contesters’ personalities and contagious drive, Cookoff explores the influence of cooking contests on America’s food culture. I discovered that the popularity of the bundt cake pan took off in the U.S.A. after the Tunnel of Fudge Cake won the 1966 Pillsbury Bake-Off.

Cookoff is truly a fascinating and fun read. I was jonesing to enter a cooking contest before I reached the end, but then I remembered the ruthlessness of some veteran Contesters and totally wussed out.

(more…)

Mar 2009

Cinnamon Rolls with Cream Cheese Icing

CINNAMON ROLLS WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING

The ease of twisting open a canister of factory-made cinnamon rolls cannot be denied, but I promise you that these made-from-scratch buns are worth the extra time and effort. The texture both inside and out is perfectly springy and moist, while the cinnamon and sugar swirls have a hint of spicy cloves. Doused in a sweet and tangy cream cheese icing, these cinnamon rolls are nothing short of magnificent. As a bonus, your home will smell like a preservative-free Cinnabon shop for the rest of the day. Score!

For filling

  • 3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

For dough

  • 2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the work surface
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/4 cups buttermilk
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

For icing

  • 3 tablespoons cream cheese, softened
  • 3 tablespoons buttermilk
  • 1 1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar

Make the buns

Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 425°F. Generously coat both a 9-inch nonstick round cake pan and a wire cooling rack with nonstick cooking spray.

Melted butter is used in both the filling and the dough. Melt the total amount (7 tablespoons) all at once in a heatproof measuring cup, then use it as needed.

CINNAMON ROLLS WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING

For the filling, combine the brown sugar,  granulated sugar, cinnamon, cloves, salt, and the 1 tablespoon melted butter together in a medium bowl until the mixture resembles wet sand.

CINNAMON ROLLS WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING

For the dough, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together in a large bowl. Whisk the buttermilk and 2 tablespoons of the melted butter together. Stir the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture with a wooden spoon until absorbed (the dough will look shaggy), about 30 seconds.

CINNAMON ROLLS WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, about 1 minute.

CINNAMON ROLLS WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING

Pat the dough with your hands into a 12 by 9-inch rectangle. Brush the dough with 2 tablespoons melted butter. Sprinkle the dough evenly with the brown sugar filling, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Press the filling firmly into the dough.

CINNAMON ROLLS WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING

Using a bench scraper or metal spatula, loosen the dough from the work surface. Starting at a long side, roll the dough, pressing lightly, to form a tight log. Pinch the seam to seal. Roll the log seam-side down and cut it evenly into 8 pieces. Turn the pieces over on their flat sides, and with your hand, slightly flatten each piece of dough to seal the open edges and keep the filling in place.

CINNAMON ROLLS WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING

Place 1 roll in the center of the prepared pan and then place the remaining 7 rolls around the perimeter of the pan. Brush the rolls with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter.

CINNAMON ROLLS WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING

Bake until the edges are golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes.

CINNAMON ROLLS WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING

Use an offset metal spatula to loosen the buns from the pan. Wearing oven mitts, place a large plate over the pan and invert the buns onto the plate. Place the greased cooling rack over the plate and invert the buns onto the rack. Cool about 5 minutes before glazing.

Make icing and finish buns

CINNAMON ROLLS WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING

While the buns are cooling, line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper (for easy cleanup); set the rack with the buns on the baking sheet. Whisk the cream cheese and buttermilk in a large bowl until thick and smooth (the mixture will look like cottage cheese at first). Sift the confectioners’ sugar over the mixture and whisk until a smooth glaze forms about 30 seconds. Spoon the glaze evenly over the buns; serve immediately.

Recipe from The America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook

[For Printable Recipe Click Here]

Mar 2009

Ducks Restaurant – San Gabriel

I’ve never chosen a restaurant based solely on its name until I began exploring the San Gabriel Valley. Lack of English and cultural comprehension among the area’s restaurateurs has resulted in some hilariously silly names. Ducks is a prime example of this awesomely bad trend. While I normally wouldn’t be drawn to a resto with a peeling facade, the promise of ducks and curry was irresistible.

First off, let’s get one thing straight—Ducks does not serve any ducks. According to a Yelper name Ken H., the restaurant is named after the owners’ daughter’s favorite animal.

Drawing inspiration from its namesake, the interior is adorned with a bevy of ducky decor. The walls and shelves of the homey restaurant are strewn with duck statues, paintings, and figurines. Based on the name and decor alone, you’d think that this restaurant was manned by a real quack job, but this certainly is not the case. Ducks is a warm mom and pop shop—mom runs the front of the house, while pop makes the food in the back. Their duck-loving daughter was nowhere in sight during The Astronomer and my visit.

Lunch started with complimentary his and hers coleslaw coated with Thousand Island dressing with a Japanese flare. The cabbage concoction tasted fresh and crunchy.

(more…)