Apr 2008

Phở Chay Như – Ho Chi Minh City

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April 4, 2008
Cuisine: Vietnamese, Vegetarian

54 Truong Quyen Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8242816
Website: none

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Pho Chay (15,000 VND)

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Com Tam Bi Cha Thit Nuong Chay (front – 20,000 VND)

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Com Tam Bi Cha Thit Nuong Chay (back)

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Bi Cuon Chay (3,000 VND per roll)

If you’ve ever thought to yourself:

“Man, I love com tam bi cha thit nuong, but I feel so guilt-ridden eating three types of pork in one sitting. I sure wish there was a vegetarian version…”

Head to Phở Chay Như immediately.

gas•tron•o•my reader Michael recommended this eatery to me months ago and I finally got around to trying it recently. Thanks, Mike!

The Astronomer and I started with the restaurant’s signature dish, pho chay (vegetarian pho). Up until this point, we’ve been quite disappointed with the vegetarian interpretations of our favorite broth and noodle dishes because they’re usually a little watery and worlds away from the real deal.

What sets the pho chay here apart from other versions is its spot-on broth. The essence of star anise and charred onions thoroughly permeates the soup, bringing about a very accurate and familiar pho flavor.

Although we came for the pho, we left enamored by the com tam bi cha thit nuong. All I can say is, I can’t believe it’s not butter!

Every element of this dish looked so real, crazy real. Taste-wise, the saucy slab of barbecued pork was the least believable. However, the bi, cha, and nuoc mam could have fooled me.

Lastly, we each had one bi cuon, which are spring rolls made with bi. Another excellent use of mock meat. Bravo.

Apr 2008

Sugar High

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Sometime during college, I developed a killer sweet tooth due to the vast amount of desserts available after every meal in the dining hall. My mom never stocked the shelves with junk food while growing up, so I sorta kinda went buck wild living away from home. Hence, this terrible habit.

This constant need for a sweet fix spells bad news back at home, but luckily in Vietnam candies and desserts are made from fruits, legumes and seaweed, so I feel dramatically less guilty for indulging.

Granted, coconut milk is fatty and there’s more than a few tablespoons of sugar in a cup of che, but man, it could be so much worse.

One of my favorite genres of Vietnamese sweets are candies made from dehydrated fruits such as limes, mangoes, ambarella and tamarind.

Covered in sugar crystals and chili flakes, these candies are spicy, sour and sweet.

My favorites are coc cay (spicy ambarella), me tac (tamarind), and me mieng (whole tamarind). They’re sold by weight and are generally displayed around town in huge plastic jars.

Since I have little to no self-control, I limit myself to 100 grams of each variety on any given visit.

Apr 2008

The Crab Shack – Ho Chi Minh City

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Living in Saigon, I’m constantly adding new Vietnamese words to my vocabulary. It’s fascinating how some terms stick straightaway, while others, regardless of how many times I run into them, refuse to integrate into my lexicon. For instance, I can’t seem to remember the words for “menu” even though I ask to see one practically every day. However, just one tasty encounter with soft-shell crabs was all it took for the words cua lot to be forever seared into my mind. I guess the part of my brain that processes new information is directly connected to my taste buds.

I visited Quán 94, a restaurant specializing in crabs, a few weeks back with a travel journalist named Peter. I was so stoked about the place after my initial visit that I returned less than a week later with a posse of friends because great food begs to be shared.

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A section of the restaurant’s entryway functions as a makeshift kitchen, and the soft-shells are prominently displayed front and center. There’s something strange and yet strangely appealing about seeing the crustaceans alive and kicking prior to consuming them.

The not-to-be-missed dishes are the soft-shell crabs with tamarind (cua lot xao me – 75,000 VND) and the traditional battered and deep-fried soft-shell crabs (cua lot chien bot – 75,000 VND). The tamarind variety was doused in a glossy sweet and sour sheen that managed to leave me speechless. The soft-shells’ texture was nothing short of perfect and absorbed the tamarind sauce unexpectedly well. The battered and deep-fried ones were served up golden and crispy with a condiment made from fish sauce, ginger and chilies that complemented the texture and flavors beautifully. I can’t believe soft-shell crabs are available in Saigon for $2.34 a piece! Criminal.

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The glass noodles sautéed with crab (mien xao cua – 70,000 VND) and shrimp (mien xao tom – 70,000 VND) were also fantastic. Flavored with fish sauce and potent black pepper, the crab glass noodles contained generous hunks of meat and roe. Sure, there was the occasional shell, but I didn’t mind because these noodles were on par with Grandma’s. The consistency of the shrimp glass noodles was unbeatable and my dining companions were pleased that the shrimps were served peeled, a rarity in this country.

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The crab-stuffed egg rolls (cha gio cua – 55,000 VND) were deep-fried to order and served with vermicelli rice noodles, fish sauce, herbs, and lettuce. At 11,000 VND a piece, these were the priciest cha gio I’ve ever encountered, but absolutely worth every dong because the kitchen didn’t mess around with fillers like taro, onions, and woodear mushrooms. The innards were one-hundred percent pure crab meat.

84 Dinh Tien Hoang Street
District 1, HCMC
Phone: 9101062