Feb 2008

Bánh Cuốn

January 31, 2008
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Nguyen Khoai Street
District 4, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: none
Website: none

Bánh Cuốn (10,000 VND)

Due to the tropical heat in Saigon, it seems as though life actually happens during the edges of the day. And by life, I mean food. The best (i.e. freshest and most varied) stuff is sold either early in the morning or after the sun sets. Lunchtime equals nap time in these here parts.

Now that I’ve properly quit my day job, I’ve started to venture out at night to try the evening offerings. One of my favorites thus far has been bánh cuốn.

Making bánh cuốn requires a delicate touch. A rice flour batter is spread thinly over a hotplate to cook for a few scorching seconds. Removing the ever-so-thin crepe from the steaming plate takes precision and patience. If the process is rushed, one ends up with a ball of rice flour rather than a dainty crepe. Next, the crepe is stuffed with a prefabbed mixture of ground pork and woodear mushrooms seasoned with ground black pepper and fish sauce. The crepe is then folded up like an egg roll.

The six rolls of bánh cuốn on my plate were topped with blanched bean sprouts, basil, fried shallots, cha (pork forcemeat), nem chua (fermented pork forcemeat), banh dau (deep-fried mung bean cake), and a healthy dousing of nuoc cham.

The bánh cuốn were so fresh that the heat from the griddle were still with them. Ahh… The crepe was light and held the meaty contents well. The nem chua was decent as far as sour salami goes, but I much preferred the plain ‘ol cha. The banh dau was a spongy doughnut that soaked up the nuoc cham nicely.

Feb 2008

'Rick Stein's Far Eastern Odyssey' Taping

My fifteen minutes are ticking away…

Last Sunday, I met up with the crew from Rick Stein‘s Far Eastern Odyssey at Ben Thanh Market to tape a segment for their episode on Vietnam. I introduced Rick to bánh hỏi thịt nướng (steamed vermicelli rice noodle cakes with grilled pork) and bún chạo tôm (fresh vermicelli rice noodles with shrimp paste and sugarcane). Both were hits!

The most interesting aspect of the taping was seeing how these travel and food shows that I enjoy so much are made. There was no prep beforehand and we pretty much did everything on the fly, which was casual and not the least bit nerve wracking. However, if Rick or I said something noteworthy or funny, we had to repeat it a second and third time so that every angle was properly captured on film. Who would’ve thought?

This episode is one in a series of six about food in the “far east” and will air in 2009. Since it’s a BBC show, it will most likely not air in America. Fortunately, I will be receiving a DVD. Woot.

UPDATED: August 18, 2009

Feb 2008

Bún Chả Hà Nội – Ho Chi Minh City

Firstly, hats off to Wandering Chopsticks for pointing me to this awesome bun cha joint on Ly Tu Trong Street. I hardly ever eat in District 1 unless its fancy or sushi and would have never found this place otherwise.

A group of new (Olivia) and old friends (The Astronomer, Zach and Tom) headed here for lunch right before the Lunar New Year shutdown, which is unfortunately still going on. The Vietnamese sure do know how to relax after a year of hard work! I hope my xoi vendors start dishing out the goods soon.

During our visit, the eatery was sold out of the cha gio cua be (crab eggrolls) WC raved about, but the manager promised me a complimentary one the next time I stopped in.

Our group ordered five portions of bun cha at 25,000 VND each. Generally, I find that bun cha portions veer toward meager, especially in the bun (vermicelli rice noodles) department. The Astronomer usually has to request two extra plates of bun to round out his meal. This restaurant served up the perfect amount of food.

The flame-grilled pork patties with bacon bits (not Bacos) were dunked in a mild fish sauce vinaigrette with thin slices of pickled daikon. The smoky patties were packed loosely, contained a satisfying ratio of meat to fat and took on the sauce’s sour flavors well. Truly, excellent. I can’t wait to compare and contrast bun cha Saigon with bun cha Hanoi when I visit later this year.

Since I’m in the south, I assembled my bun cha in a southern fashion—small bowl + herbs + greens + meat + sauce. Definitely the best I’ve had so far.

8 Ly Tu Trong Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City