Restaurant Review
05 Nov 2007

Long Huy – Ho Chi Minh City

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October 23, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

129 Cach Mang Thang Tam Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8342859
Website: none

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Goi Cuon (3,000 VND/roll)

Banh Xeo Dac Biet (25,000 VND)

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The Astronomer and I drive on CMT8 daily as part of our commute to work. While he’s concentrating on delivering us to our destination safely, I am on the lookout for new eateries to try. Long Huy has been on my list for quite sometime, and we finally dropped in for lunch a few weeks back when we weren’t in the mood for our usual vegetarian fare.

Long Huy is a very pretty restaurant and was packed on the afternoon we visited. The entrance houses a fairly large open kitchen with rows of woks for sizzling-up the restaurant’s signature dish, banh xeo. The dining room is spacious with plenty of chairs and tables for the hoards of patrons in need of a crepe fix. In addition to banh xeo, Long Huy’s menu includes over 300 other Vietnamese items.

We began our meal with goi cuon—three for The Astronomer and two for me. The rolls contained large boiled shrimp, boiled pork slices, vermicelli noodles, and greens. The accompanying hoisin-based dipping sauce was well-executed, as were the rolls.

While visiting Da Nang in early September, I chowed down on banh xeo for lunch daily. Although I was unaware at the time, The Astronomer thought I was eating an omelet. As an egg-hater, he never sampled the dish. Ever since discovering that it is in fact not an egg-y creation, The Astronomer has been wanting to revisit banh xeo.

Unlike the tiny crepes in Da Nang, Long Huy’s banh xeo were humongous (see head to “head” comparison below). The Astronomer and I shared the banh xeo dac biet, which was filled with bean sprouts, shrimp, squid, ground beef, and pork and served with nuoc mam and a tray of herbs and lettuce.

The giant crepe was damn fine and on par with grandma’s, which is saying an awful lot. My only complaint is that with such a large banh xeo, much of the filling goes towards the center, leaving the outskirts barren. If Long Huy can figure out how to evenly distribute the goods, they’ll be golden!

Mekong Delta
02 Nov 2007

Vegetation Profile: Elephant Ear

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Bac ha is the Vietnamese name for an Asian vegetable which is known by a variety of names in English including taro stem and elephant ear. The scientific name for the plant is Alocasia odora. The plant is native to Southeast Asia, and is available from Asian markets and specialty stores. It is also possible to grow bac ha at home, since it is often used as an ornamental plant in temperate and tropical gardens.

The plant is in the same family as taro, which leads some consumers to confuse the two. The use of “taro stems” to describe bac ha increases the confusion. However, the edible part of bac ha is the stems, not the corms, as is the case with taro. Although bac ha corms can be eaten, the primary reason for cultivating the plant is the fleshy long stalks, not the corms. Just like with taro, however, bac ha must be carefully cooked before consumption, or the plant can stimulate an allergic reaction.

I can’t believe this is the first vegetable I’ve profiled. What can I say? Fruits are my fave.

I found these beautiful stalks of bac ha at an outdoor market in the city of Vinh Long in the Mekong Delta this past weekend. I was taken aback by how long they were; the tropical climate in Vietnam sure is amazing for growing hefty produce.

I only know of one dish that features bac ha and it’s a delightful soup called canh chua. I’ve mentioned my love for this soup many times on gas•tron•o•my. When cooked, the texture of bac ha becomes very sponge-like and tastily soaks up the soup’s sour notes. Although I’ve never tasted raw bac ha, I imagine it to be a bit like celery—crunchy, loaded with water and a bit tasteless.

Restaurant Review
01 Nov 2007

Meatless in Saigon

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Mock Meats and Tofu Treats—clockwise from upper left: bean curd with mustard greens, thit heo quay, xoi ga chay, canh chua

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One would imagine that in a society where roughly 85% of the people are practicing Buddhists, vegetarian restaurants could be found on every corner. While this may be true in some parts of Asia, it is certainly not the case in Saigon, where eateries specializing in com chay are few and far between.

Exceptions to this general trend appear on the first and fifteenth of each Lunar Calendar month, when all Buddhists shy away from meat. On these particularly auspicious days, nearly all workers’ lunch establishments (com binh dan) serve vegetarian options.

Whereas vegetarian cuisine in the West often means a bland plate of grilled vegetables or strange faux meat products, Vietnamese vegetarian fare sticks to familiar flavors and ingredients. Unlike scientifically derived products such as Tofurkey and Boca Burgers, which tend to leave eaters feeling deprived, the fresh vegetables and soy products employed at com chay restaurants are skillfully transformed into wholly satisfying delights.

One of the best features of vegetarian establishments in town is their extensive menus. From rice entrees to noodle soups, it seems that every Vietnamese dish can be deliciously vegetarian-ized.

For those seeking meatless fare for dietary reasons, religious leanings, or just personal preference, there are a handful of well-run and exciting Vietnamese vegetarian restaurants in the city worth getting to know. Just a warning, there is a good chance that you will be dining next to a group of Buddhist nuns or monks while digging into a hearty plate of meatless goodness.

Quan An Chay
174 Calmette Street, District 1
This vegan-friendly eatery features a casual buffet where diners can pick and choose items that suit their fancy. The buffet selections change daily, which always keeps things interesting. The price of the meal depends on the weight of food.

Huong Vien
101 Vuon Chuoi Street, District 3
Huong Vien’s specialty is vegetarian renditions of Vietnamese classics such as pho, lau (hot pot), and bun rieu. The xoi ga chay (sticky rice with “chicken”) is especially stellar and unbelievably similar to the meaty xoi ga and xoi man sold street-side. A plate of xoi ga chay is priced at VND4,000. Another winning dish is the banh hoi thit nuong (vermicelli noodle cakes topped with grilled “pork”). The meaty mouth-feel and smoky marinade of the soy “pork” is nothing short of excellent. A heaping portion of banh hoi thit nuong is priced at VND10,000.

Lien Hoa
004 C/c Doan Van Bo Street, District 4
Lien Hoa serves Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine at rock-bottom prices. At VND10,000 per dish, one can eat healthily and economically. House specialties include banh beo chay (steamed rice cakes) and banh bao chay (steamed buns).

Giac Duc
492 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, District 3
A must-try treat at Giac Duc is the thit heo quay (barbecued pork). The dish looks and tastes so ridiculously pork-like, it is hard to believe that no swine were harmed in the process. The true genius of this dish lies in the tapioca film that brilliantly fakes the layer of fat found in real thit heo quay. A portion for two is priced at VND10,000. Giac Duc also makes one of the best canh chua (sweet and sour soup) in town. The VND5,000 bowl of soup is brimming with okra, elephant ears, tomatoes, and bean sprouts.

Tiem Com Chay Phap Hoa I
200 Nguyen Trai Street, District 1
Extremely popular with the local crowd, Phap Hoa prepares a large selection of Vietnamese specialties and dishes employing mock meat. Although the ambiance is bare bones, the friendly staff and solid food more than make up for it.

Thanh Luong
545A Ba Thang Hai Street, District 10
Although Thanh Luong’s menu is slightly limited compared to the others, the quality of the food is first-class. The best way to enjoy Thanh Luong’s offerings is by ordering a variety of dishes and plenty of steamed rice. The dau hu xa (lemongrass tofu) and bean curd with mustard greens are solid choices. “Sardines” wrapped in seaweed, one of the more interesting menu items, taste surprisingly fishy for a creation made entirely inland.

An Lac Chay *CLOSED*
175/4 Pham Ngu Lao Street, District 1
In the heart of the backpacker quarter, An Lac’s main clientele are travelers and local families. The restaurant prepares both Vietnamese and international cuisine and according to locals, An Lac’s pizza is most excellent.

Two Huong Vien regulars enjoying a meat-free lunch