Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Restaurant Review

23 Oct 2007

Thanh Hải: Other Snails Pale in Comparison

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October 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

14/12 Ky Dong Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8435785
Website: none

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Bun Oc Rieu Cua (10,000 VND)

Oc Hap Nhoi Thit (25,000 VND)

Oc Gao Luoc La Chanh (10,000 VND)

Oc Ham Thuoc Bac (15,000 VND)

Oc Xao Chui Xanh (10,000 VND)

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Saigon Times take two. And a big cam on to Noodlepie for excellent dining advice!

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When asked how many bowls of bun rieu she sells daily at her self-named eatery in District 3, Mrs. Thanh Hai merely grins. She is unwilling to reveal to a stranger the extent of her restaurant’s popularity among locals and visitors alike. What began as a small street stall in 1984 has blossomed today into a 50-seat restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Thanh Hai has been dishing up bun rieu and a number of other snail-centric dishes in a peaceful cul-de-sac off of Ky Dong Street since 1995. Hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Saigon traffic, a meal here feels pleasantly far from the daily grind.

The restaurant’s recipes are original creations of Mrs. Thanh Hai and are heavily influenced by her upbringing in the northern province of Thai Binh. She has been perfecting her cuisine ever since her arrival in Saigon 26 years ago.

Whereas pho has gained international admirers, bun rieu is still relatively unknown to Westerners. Fresh vermicelli noodles and a pleasantly sour crab-based broth lay the foundation for this strictly northern delicacy. Juicy red tomatoes add a robust layer of tanginess to the soup.

The two bun rieu selections on the restaurant’s menu are bun oc rieu cua (10,000 VND) and bun rieu cua (8,000 VND). The former includes snails (oc) and crab (cua) and is the chef’s personal favorite, while the latter contains only crab. Whereas the crab absorbs the broth’s deep flavor, the sautéed snails enhance the soup’s aroma and texture. To fully experience bun rieu, a combination of crab and snails is absolutely essential.

Mam ruoc (fermented shrimp paste), lime wedges, bean sprouts, herbs, and a plethora of greens are on hand for diners to personalize their bowls of bun rieu to taste.

In addition to bun rieu, Thanh Hai prepares several uniquely Vietnamese snail entrees with portions hefty enough to share. Whereas French escargot requires copious amounts of rich butter and cream, Thanh Hai uses natural herbs and spices to produce snail dishes that are much kinder on the waistline and lighter on the palate.

The restaurant’s two snail standouts are oc xao chui xanh and oc hap nhoi thit. The oc xao chui xanh (10,000 VND) consists of stir-fried snails, green bananas and basil. The green bananas are starchy and nothing like their ripened counterparts, while the snails are de-shelled and agreeably chewy. The simple ingredients meld together spectacularly well, creating a flavor reminiscent of Italian pesto.

The oc hap nhoi thit (25,000 VND) is the priciest item on the menu and the most popular among patrons, according to Mrs. Thanh Hai. Snails, spices, and meat are combined to form meatballs that are steamed inside large snail shells. Served with a spicy ginger and fish sauce vinaigrette, this dish is immensely satisfying.

Thanh Hai consistently turns out quality food at more than reasonable prices. Though a little off the beaten path, this restaurant is a true gem and is worth visiting to treat your taste buds.

Restaurant Review

22 Oct 2007

Duck Two-Ways: Cháo Vịt & Gỏi Vịt

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October 16, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Corner of Dien Bien Phu Street and Nguyen Thuong Hien
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: none
Website: none

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Goi Vit – Duck Salad (45,000 VND)

Chao Vit – Duck Porridge (3,000 VND)

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I thought for a split second about naming this post “What the Duck?” or “Duck Face,” but then I remembered that I’m an adult and not a foul-mouthed buffoon. So “Duck Two-Ways” it is.

The Astronomer has been hankering for duck these past few weeks, so we ducked under an awning specializing in everything vit for lunch the other afternoon. We ordered a plate of goi vit to share and each had a bowl of chao vit.

The huge bowls of chao vit contained congealed blood (AKA blood Jello), fresh bean sprouts, ground pepper and scallions.

I thought the chao vit was decent, but my grandmother’s version is SO much better. Whereas the flavors in grandma’s chao vit are clean and distinctly duck, the broth here was cloudy and not ducky enough. It’s really not fair to compare…

On the other hand, The Astronomer enjoyed his bowl of chao vit so much that he ordered another! So, the jury is clearly split over the chao vit.

The goi vit has thus far been the most expensive street food we’ve ever ordered. Large pieces of meat in Saigon come at a hefty price, and on this occasion, it was completely worth it.

A generous portion of boiled duck was chopped up and served atop a bed of greens dressed in a light vinaigrette. The ginger and fish sauce accompaniment brought out the duck’s subtle flavors.

For the most part, the food in Vietnam has been either on par or better than my family’s cooking. However, in the case of chao vit, I really yearned for grandma’s special touch.

Street Food

19 Oct 2007

Xôi! Oh Boy!

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October 19, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Corner of Le Thanh Ton Street and Pasteur Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: none
Website: none

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Xoi Man (5,000 VND)

Xoi Bap (4,000 VND)

Xoi Dau Xanh (4,000 VND)

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Remember that little xoi obsession I mentioned earlier? Well, it’s alive and well. After reading a little feature on xoi last night in the Saigon Weekly, The Astronomer and I were inspired to seek out some this morning.

Our first stop was at the corner of Khanh Hoi Street and Ben Van Don Street in District 4. We’ve zoomed by this lady numerous times on our way to work and always wondered what she was dishing up. We ordered a box of xoi man, which she already had boxed up and ready to go. A few shakes of soy sauce and she handed it over—talk about fast food!

Then we zipped over to the corner of Le Thanh Ton Street and Pasteur Street in District 1 in search of an old telephone pole and an even older lady selling xoi (details mentioned in the Weekly article to help readers locate the exact site). She and her helper were selling two types of xoi this morning, dau xanh and bap. We ordered 4,000 VND worth of each. Both xoi were wrapped up in a single layer of banana leaf and two layers of phone book pages; sugar and spoon included.

Quite late for work at this point, we finally made our way to EMW and enjoyed our treasurers there.

First up, xoi man. Shredded chicken, fried egg bits, cha bong, cha lua, pate, and scallion oil were all present atop a mound of sticky rice. This was the first xoi man I’ve eaten featuring egg, which I really liked! I could eat this stuff all day long…

Second up, xoi bap. My grandma used to make this for breakfast when I was a kid and eating it this morning reminded me of her. Xoi bap consists of sticky rice with hominy, mung beans, crispy shallots, and lots of sugar. The hearty hominy and savory shallots reel in some of the sugary sweetness, keeping the xoi from tasting too dessert-like. The use of fresh hominy made for an all-around moister xoi.

And lastly, xoi dau xanh, which was topped with mung beans, fried shallots, and crushed sesame seeds. This version was a bit different from the one I had two weeks ago; the rice seemed stickier and didn’t contain coconut milk. Between the two xoi, my vote goes to xoi bap.

It’s lunchtime in Saigon and I’m not xoi‘d–out yet. You know what that means…

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