Oct 2007

Sampling Saigon’s Snack Shacks

The Saigon Times newspaper is giving me the opportunity to write for their Leisure section and I’ve decided that snack shacks are a worthy first topic. I am trying to find a tone different from my gas•tron•o•my voice, but am having some difficulty. Here’s my first shot at newspaper glory…

A cross between street food and sit-down eateries, snack shacks serve up light fare perfect for a small bite when the mood hits. Extremely popular among the local teen set, these restaurants appeal to families and couples as well.

Similar to the western “small plates” experience, diners can mix and match sweet and savory dishes to create a one-of-a-kind meal.

Menus vary from shack to shack, but mainstays include sticky rice, spring rolls, fresh salads, and Vietnamese desserts. These establishments offer enough variety to suit even the pickiest of eaters.

Prices range from 3,000-8,000 VND per dish, so don’t hesitate to order precariously and try something new because your wallet will not suffer.

Here is a quick run through of snack shack must-tries:

Ha Cao

IMG_4742

A close relative of Chinese dim sum and Vietnamese banh bot lot, these gelatinous dumplings are filled with minced pork and topped with fresh basil and a soy-based sauce. The meat filling is nothing special and tends to be skimpy, but the dumpling’s texture is appealingly chewy.

Bot Chien

IMG_4509

The literal translation of this dish is “fried dough,” but it resembles more of an omelet than a doughnut. Little bits of dough are fried to a crisp and eggs and scallions are added over them. The “omelet” is served beautifully golden and garnished with pickled carrots and radishes and a side of soy dipping sauce. The crunchy edges are a highlight.

Bo Bia

IMG_4511

While goi cuon is the most well-known Vietnamese spring roll, bo bia deserves some of the spotlight. These delicate rolls wrapped in rice paper contain sweet Chinese sausage, dried shrimps, lettuce, eggs, and a sautéed jicama and carrot slaw. Dipped in a bit of hoisin sauce, the roll’s sweet and salty double punch is sure to move your taste buds.

Ca Vien Chien

IMG_4675

Think of these as fish meatballs. Generally served with hoisin sauce on the side, ca vien chien is best shared with friends because the flavor can veer toward monotonous.

Che

IMG_4666

The majority of the offerings at snack shacks fall under this category. A somewhat cloyingly sweet dessert, che usually contains beans (black, red, and mung), coconut milk, tapioca, plenty of sugar and shaved ice. Westerners unaccustomed to bean-based sweets may shun the fibrous texture of che, but it’s definitely worth sampling at least once. The best way to experience che is with a tall cup of che thap cam, which means “a little bit of everything.” A local favorite is che xung xa hot lua, containing coconut milk, mung beans, and pink water chestnuts.

Goi Du Du Bo

IMG_4669

This shredded green papaya salad topped with basil, beef jerky, peanuts, and a light dressing puts Caesar salad to shame. The jerky is unexpectedly sweet and flavorful, while the papaya is fresh and light. Take into account that portions on this dish run small when ordering.

Xoi Man

IMG_4784

It’s hard to find a bad plate of xoi man— sticky rice topped with various meats (cha lua, cha bong, and pate), fried shallots, soy sauce, pickled vegetables, and an oil and scallion mixture. This simple dish never fails to satisfy.

In a town chock-full of food available at all hours of the day, it is not difficult to locate some grub when the munchies hit. The next time you’re hungry and hours away from mealtime, check out these snack shacks to suit your craving, whether it be sweet or savory:

Che My
91 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Bo Bia
2B Su Thien Chieu Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Che Ky Dong
153/7 Ky Dong Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Che 278
278 Khanh Hoi Street
District 4, Ho Chi Minh City

Oct 2007

Vegetation Profile: Papaya

 IMG_4740

The papaya (from Carib via Spanish), is the fruit of the tree Carica papaya, in the genus Carica. It is native to the tropics of the Americas, and was cultivated in Mexico several centuries before the emergence of the Mesoamerican classic cultures. Nowadays, the papaya is also known as fruta bomba (Cuba), lechosa (Venezuela, Puerto Rico, the Philippines and the Dominican Republic), mamão, papaw (Sri Lankan English), Papol \ Guslabu (Tree melon – in Sinhalese ), pawpaw or tree melon, as well as tree melon (木瓜) in Chinese and đu đủ in Vietnamese.

The fruit is ripe when it feels soft and its skin has attained an amber to orange hue. The fruit’s taste is vaguely similar to pineapple and peach, although much milder without the tartness, creamier, and more fragrant, with a texture of slightly over-ripened cantaloupe.

There is nothing tastier than chilled, fresh papaya or đu đủ on a hot Saigon afternoon. Fruit vendors scattered around town sell it by the slice for 2,000 VND, while the whole fruit goes for about 6,000 VND per kilogram.

Sure, I’ve had fresh papaya in the states and canned ones in “tropical” fruit cocktail mixes, but the stuff I get in town tastes a million times better. I think it has something to do with the fact that the fruit is grown locally—fewer food miles makes for a finer product.

Although papayas are generally considered a sweet fruit, they really are quite versatile. One of my favorite savory preparations is goi đu đủ kho bo (green papaya salad with beef jerky).

There are a lot of things to love about living in Vietnam, but the availability of fresh, locally grown fruits ranks especially high on my list. Eating 5-a day is easy as pie.

Oct 2007

Chè Đậu Hũ – Sweet Tofu

IMG_4752

October 7, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese, Dessert

Tu Xuong Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: none
Website: none

IMG_4750

Che Dau Hu – sweet tofu in a ginger syrup with coconut milk (2,000 VND)

Everyday from noon to 1:30 PM, the woman pictured above (wearing a flannel shirt and conical hat) sells sweet tofu outside my office on Tu Xuong Street. Every so often on my way back from lunch, I’ll take a seat on one of her especially stumpy stools and order a bowl.

Being a street vendor is backbreaking work, especially when the food has to be lugged around over one’s shoulders. The sweet tofu dealer carries a large pot of tofu on one side of her “pole” and the ginger syrup and coconut milk on the other.

IMG_4751

When I place my order, she uses a wide and shallow metal spoon to scoop up a few chunks of the fresh tofu into a bowl and proceeds to douse it with syrup and coconut milk. I’ve previously blogged about my love for this treat, but what’s notable about her rendition is the employment of coconut milk. After trying sweet tofu with coconut milk on several occasions, I’ve concluded that I like mine better without. The creaminess of the milk is pleasant, but unnecessary because what I really dig is the spicy ginger.

You’d think in Saigon’s heat that a warm dessert would probably be the least desirable thing, but sometimes it just works.