Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Restaurant Review

03 Jul 2007

Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine – Philadelphia

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June 20, 2007
Cuisine: Chinese, Pan-Asian & Pacific Rim

1512 Walnut St, Philadelphia 19102
Btwn S Sydenham St & S 15th St

Phone: 215-545-2666
Website: www.susannafoo.com

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Mongolian Lamb Pillows – Stuffed with Tarragon, Cumin & Leeks, Chinese Eggplant with Ancho Chili Sauce ($8)

Kung Pao Tofu with Scallions, Jalapeño Peppers & Red Onion ($8)

Tea-Smoked Peking Duck Breast – Fuji Apple Chutney, Braised Fingerling Potatoes, and Sautéed Chinese Vegetables ($29)

Classic Mu-shu Pork with Pressed Bean Curd, Brandy Hoisin Sauce, Steamed Pancakes, and Scallions ($18)

Chocolate Dipped Fortune Cookies (complimentary)

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The Astronomer loves Chinese food with all of his heart. He would eat Sesame Chicken and dumplings everyday given the chance. Sometimes I wonder if he would be better off dating a Chinese girl with a wok. Or better yet, a Chinese girl whose parents owned a restaurant. Now, that would be a heavenly match…

The Astronomer requested we celebrate his 23rd birthday at Susanna Foo because word on the street is that she serves up some mean Cantonese and Shanghai cooking. I was a bit hesitant about The Astronomer’s choice because I have two general rules about dining at ethnic restaurants: Firstly, the price range should be inexpensive to moderate because great ethnic eats can always be found on the cheap. Secondly, the majority of the restaurant’s patrons should be of the ethnic identity of the cuisine because it is a sure sign the food is authentic and not watered down for the masses. Needless to say, Susanna Foo is pricey and serves a non-Chinese clientele. While I would have personally passed on dining there, it was The Astronomer’s birthday, so I put aside my preferences for the evening.

We arrived on time for a 7 o’clock reservation and were seated right away at a table large enough for four. The noise level inside the elegantly decorated restaurant was unexpectedly robust, mostly due to happy hour revelers at the bar. I dined at Susanna Foo seven years ago with my mother and brother and sat in the upstairs dining room, which was much quieter. However, on this evening the space appeared to be closed. The crowd in the main dining room seemed to consist mainly of business people and a few couples.

The Astronomer began his birthday feast with an order of Mongolian Lamb Pillows stuffed with tarragon, cumin and leeks and served with Chinese eggplant in an Ancho chili sauce. The pillows were tender, but lacked the strong lamb flavor we were hoping for. The pillows tasted like good-quality meat in wonton wrappers and not the least bit Mongolian (whatever that means). The eggplant was slightly undercooked, but still appealing. The Ancho chili sauce was sadly tame. I’d take five dumplings for a dollar from Dumpling House any day over these.

For my appetizer, I ordered the Kung Pao Tofu, which was listed on the “sides” section of the menu. For a side dish, the tofu’s portion was huge and came with two servings of white rice. I was really impressed by this dish. The Kung Pao sauce was perfectly spicy and not too peanut-y, the tofu was lightly browned and firm, and the variety of vegetables were impressive. Although we probably shouldn’t have eaten the entire plate, it was so good we couldn’t help ourselves.

For The Astronomer’s main course, he had the Tea-Smoked Peking Duck Breast served with Fuji apple chutney, braised fingerling potatoes, and sautéed Chinese vegetables. The Astronomer thought that the duck breast was well-seasoned and flavorful, but not as succulent and juicy as he wished. The sides were decent, but definitely nothing spectacular. The apple chutney was not very chutney-like and resembled more of a thick and colorless puree. The Astronomer detested the Chinese vegetables underneath the duck due to its bitterness, but liked the fresh apple slaw atop the duck.

For my entrée, I ordered the Classic Mu-shu Pork served with a Brandy Hoisin sauce and steamed pancakes. Mu-shu pork is one of my all-time favorite Chinese treats for its unique flavor combinations and fun assembly process. Susanna’s high-end interpretation of Mu-shu was fantastic. The meat mixture was an interesting blend of pork, bean curd, mushrooms, red peppers, and scallions. The Brandy’s essence came through nicely in the hoisin sauce. The pancakes were abnormally thick, resembled miniature tortillas, and held the contents well. All three components gelled together perfectly for a delectable wrap. As per usual with Mu-shu, there were too few pancakes for the heaping portion of pork. Susanna’s Mu-shu was better than average, but for $18, it really ought to be.

We concluded our celebration with some chocolate dipped fortune cookies.

I really enjoyed all of the dishes I sampled this evening, but at the end of the meal, I still believe that my personal policies regarding dining at ethnic restaurants hold true.

Restaurant Review

03 Jul 2007

Good Dog Bar – Philadelphia

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June 17, 2007
Cuisine: American (traditional), Burgers

224 S 15th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19102

Phone: 215-985-9600
Website: www.gooddogbar.com/

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Good Dog Burger – half pound house ground sirloin, stuffed with Roquefort, topped with caramelized onions and served on toasted brioche ($10)

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Ever since Craig LaBan released his article about the best burgers in Philadelphia, I’ve been jonesing to try his top pick—Good Dog Burger. What can I say? I am a sucker for lists. LaBan writes:

The burger that inspired the song “Cheeseburger, I Hold,” Good Dog’s signature sandwich triumphs where so many before have tried and failed – stuffing a burger with blue cheese. The meat itself is deliciously seasoned, perfectly cooked, and wisely topped only with a mop of sautéed onions. But bite into the heart, and behold. A river of molten bleu. A powerhouse of tangy savor. Too rich to be an everyday burger. But can you hear the music playing? Order it no more than medium-rare, or risk losing the cheese.

Melina, Tara

For my final dinner in the city with two of my favorite girlfriends, Tara and Melina, we headed to Good Dog Bar to try the famed burger. Curious to see if the hype was warranted, we each ordered one; Tara requested hers prepared medium rare, while Melina and I had ours cooked medium. Our burgers were served with a mountain of shoestring sweet potato fries and a side of flavored aioli.

The Good Dog Burger is a damn fine creation and maybe even a little genius. Okay, a lot genius! The meat was well-seasoned, just like LaBan promised, especially around the lightly charred edge of the meat. Tara appreciated this little touch. The Roquefort oozing out of the center of the patty was deeply flavorful, but not too overwhelming. By the way, my perfectly cooked medium patty still retained a good amount of cheese. The caramelized onions and brioche added a tinge of sweetness to the entire burger, which enhanced the Roquefort’s taste. Tara, Melina, and I unanimously agreed that the Good Dog Burger rocked! The sweet potato fries with the aioli were plentiful and fine accompaniment for the burger.

Mel, me

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Restaurant Review

30 Jun 2007

Twenty21 – Philadelphia

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June 15, 2007
Cuisine: American (New)

2005 Market St, Philadelphia 19103
At N 20th St

Phone: 215-851-6262
Website: www.twenty-21.com

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Rosemary Foccacia (complimentary)

Homemade Meatloaf – traditional meatloaf, mashed potatoes, mushroom jus ($15)

Jumbo Lump Crabcake – Napa cabbage, caramelized pears ($19)

Tahitian Vanilla Crème Brulée ($7)

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I’m leaving Philadelphia.

The Astronomer and I are packing our bags and heading to Ho Chi Minh City for the next year to temporarily escape the grind and to see what life is like on the other side of the globe. While I’m beyond stoked about our coming adventures, I’m extremely bummed to be leaving the city I called home for the past few years.

For my farewell luncheon, my colleagues and I dined at Twenty21, which is located across the street from our building in Commerce Square. Even though Commerce Square is positioned right smack in the middle of two high rise buildings in Center City, the ambiance is surprisingly serene due to a flowing fountain and shady greenery.

Twenty21’s dining room is huge, smartly decorated, and dimly lit. We opted to dine outside because the weather was much too pleasant to be stuck inside. As we waited for our food to arrive, we nibbled on some rosemary foccacia with olive oil. The foccacia was stellar and flavorful as is, so the olive oil wasn’t necessary. We enjoyed it so much that my colleague Carol asked for seconds for the entire table.

I ordered the Jumbo Lump Crab Cake and struck a deal with my colleague Jennifer to share her meatloaf. The crab cake, served with sautéed Napa cabbage and caramelized pears, was disappointingly bland. While it’s important to showcase the crabmeat, it’s also essential to properly season the crab cake. Jennifer and I both agreed that the sautéed cabbage was really great. The pears were good, but too thinly sliced and skimpy.

Whereas the crab cake was under-seasoned, the meatloaf was slightly over-seasoned, especially the portions sitting in the jus. I served my portion of the meatloaf on to a separate plate so I didn’t find it too salty, but rather just right. The potatoes were smooth, buttery, and extra delicious with the mushroom jus. The asparagus and mushrooms atop the meatloaf were all cooked very well.

In a celebratory mood, Jennifer and I split a crème brûlée for dessert. The sugary shell was done right, but sadly there was only a shallow layer of crème beneath. The miscalculated ratio of sugar to crème was unsatisfactory.