Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Recipe

17 Jun 2007

Pecan Spice Layer Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting

Filed Under:

Several traditional southern themes — pecans, Caribbean spices, and, of course, thick, tangy cream cheese frosting — come together in this gorgeous layer cake that’s both down-home and elegant. The cake and frosting were prepared by The Astronomer’s talented mother Jane in Birmingham, Alabama. Assembly and consumption took place in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Our team effort, spanning across two states, resulted in a beautiful and delicious cake for our favorite Astronomer’s 23rd birthday.

For cake

1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces and softened, plus additional for buttering pans
2 3/4 cups cake flour (not self-rising)
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 1/4 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 1/2 cups packed light brown sugar
3 large eggs at room temperature 30 minutes
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups sour cream
3/4 cup pecans (3 ounces), toasted, cooled, and finely chopped

For frosting

3 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened
1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
3 3/4 cups confectioners sugar (from a 1-pound package)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 1/3 cups pecans (5 ounces), toasted, cooled, and finely chopped

Special equipment: 2 (9-inch) round cake pans (2 inches deep)

Make cake

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour cake pans, knocking out excess flour.

Sift together cake flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices into a large bowl.

Beat together butter (1 1/2 sticks) and brown sugar in another bowl with an electric mixer (fitted with paddle attachment if using a stand mixer) at medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition, then beat in vanilla. Reduce speed to low, then add flour mixture and sour cream alternately in batches, beginning and ending with flour mixture and mixing until batter is just smooth. Mix in pecans until just combined.

Spoon batter evenly into pans, smoothing tops, then tap pans once or twice to expel any air bubbles. Bake until pale golden and a wooden pick inserted in center of cakes comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool 10 minutes in pans on racks. Run a thin knife around edge of pans, then invert racks over pans and reinvert cakes onto racks to cool completely.

Make frosting

Beat together cream cheese, butter, and zest in a bowl with clean beaters at medium-high speed until fluffy 1 to 2 minutes. Sift in confectioners sugar and stir with a wooden spoon until just combined, then add lemon juice and beat at medium-high speed until frosting is smooth.

Assemble and frost cake

Halve each cake layer horizontally with a long serrated knife using a gentle sawing motion. Put 1 layer, cut side up, on a cake stand or large plate and spread with about 3/4 cup frosting. Stack remaining cake layers, spreading about 3/4 cup frosting on each layer and ending with top cake layer cut side down. Spread top and side of cake with remaining frosting (about 3 1/2 cups) and coat side of cake with pecans (1 1/3 cups), gently pressing to help them adhere.

Makes 10 servings.

Gourmet, April 2007

(more…)

Restaurant Review

15 Jun 2007

21st Street Gourmet – Philadelphia

Filed Under:

2 Comments

June 7, 2007
Cuisine: Sandwiches, Other

119 S 21st St, Philadelphia 19103
Btwn Walnut St & Sansom St

Phone: 215-563-9099
Website: none

—

Lentil Loaf Sandwich – aged provolone, tomato, served on toasted grain bread with pasta salad and Dijon potato salad ($7.25)

Poached Eggs on a Fluffy Croissant with a side of Bacon ($3.95)

—

My friend Wes and I are always on the lookout for tasty lunch spots and decided to give 21st Street Gourmet a try the other afternoon. When it comes to appetites and food preferences, Wes and I are like night and day. Whereas Wes is rarely hungry and only likes traditional American fare, I have a hearty appetite and enjoy just about everything granted it doesn’t contain trans fats. It’s not easy finding an eatery that satisfies both our tastes, but 21st Street Gourmet comes pretty darn close.

21st Street Gourmet is a full-service restaurant that offers take-out and catering as well. The restaurant is quite spacious and was reasonably crowded when we visited. Most diners seemed to be business-types on lunch break.

Always in the mood for breakfast, Wes ordered Poached Eggs on a Fluffy Croissant with a side of bacon. A large toasted croissant gently held together two poached eggs. Wes said the poached eggs were perfect (not too hard or too soft) and the yolks were wonderfully runny. He also commented that the croissant was delicious and the bacon was thick. What really put a smile on my face was when Wes admitted that this meal was better than the slop served up at Sandy’s and returned the next day to enjoy another Poached Eggs on a Fluffy Croissant. I’ve been trying to get Wes to abandon Sandy’s for months!

My Lentil Loaf Sandwich was a smaller than expected based on the price, but very delightful and satisfying. The loaf was composed of lentils, rice, tomatoes, and bell peppers. Although I’m not a vegetarian, I often prefer vegetarian options over meat because they tend to be healthier and definitely more interesting. The melted aged provolone tied together the loaf, bread, and tomatoes well. The pasta salad (tri-color rotini tossed in Italian dressing) was fairly run of the mill, but the potato salad (quartered small red potatoes in Dijon/mayonnaise dressing) was above average.

Restaurant Review

14 Jun 2007

Horizons – Philadelphia

Filed Under:

3 Comments

June 2, 2007
Cuisine: Vegetarian, Eclectic & International, Health Food

611 S 7th St, Philadelphia 19147
At South Street

Phone: 215-923-6117
Website: www.horizonsphiladelphia.com
—

Foccacia (complimentary)

Appetizer I: Vietnamese Bruschetta – lemongrass braised tofu, red chile mayo, cilantro, scallion & mint relish ($7)

Appetizer II: Jamaican BBQ Seitan – cucumber ranch, habanero tamarind slaw ($8)

Entree I: Hearts of Palm Paella – grilled asparagus, seared valencian rice, saffron sauce, green olive & creamy roasted corn relish ($18)

Entree II: Pacific Rim Grilled Tofu – spicy kochujang glaze, ginger lime butter, edamame mashed potatoes, ponzu broccolini ($18)

Chocolate Mousse with Macadamia Nut Cookies ($6)

—

It is quite possible that my family was stunned when, among all the restaurants in the Philadelphia area, I chose to visit a vegan establishment for my graduation dinner. Most of my all-time favorite meals have indeed been built around juicy, succulent animal byproducts, but in recent years I have begun to develop an appreciation for healthy eating, and Horizons had long been near the top of the Gastronomer’s and my “must-try” list. Besides, I knew my mom would love it. I decided to take the plunge.

All in all, the food at Horizons blew me away. The meal began with some delicious foccacia and olive oil for dipping. The bread was totally addictive, and in anticipation of possibly being left hungry by the meatless later courses, I ended up eating far too much. I also downed a tasty mojito. Drinking at meals is a rarity for me, but hey, it was a night of celebration.

The Gastronomer and I decided to share two appetizers and two entrees in order to sample as much of the inventive menu as possible. We began with the Vietnamese Bruschetta and Jamaican Barbeque Seitan. The bruschetta featured a small slice of baguette topped with a slab of tofu and a delicate relish. The Gastronomer liked the spice of the red chile mayo smeared on the bread, but wished that the toppings had more of a kick. I agreed; the flavors were pleasant but didn’t really leave me longing for more.

On the other hand, the BBQ seitan was phenomenal. Horizons is famous for making soy and gluten products taste meat-like, which was certainly the case with this dish. The seitan had a stringy texture similar to pulled pork and efficiently soaked up the flavors of the sauce, which was sticky, sweet, tangy, and just plain brilliant. I can honestly say that the seitan was better than 95% of the barbecued meats I’ve eaten (and I live in Alabama). We passed the dish around for everyone to try a piece; sadly it was gone before we knew it.

For our entrees, we ordered the Hearts of Palm Paella and the Pacific Rim Grilled Tofu. Both were well executed; although nothing could match the astounding flavor of the BBQ seitan. The texture of the paella surprised us—instead of trying to mimic standard seafood paella, Horizons went for a novel form that was more like a cake of fried risotto. The Gastronomer loved how the hearts of palm had the texture of a vegetable, but boasted a tangy flavor unheard of among greens. She also commented that the saffron sauce was pretty, but not all that memorable from a taste standpoint. As someone who embraces mild flavors, I thoroughly enjoyed the sauce, which was a perfect accompaniment for the asparagus. Both of us could have done without the bell pepper stuffed with a mayo-based sauce.

The Pacific Rim Tofu was beautifully presented, but its mild flavors were a bit of a letdown for The Gastronomer. She informed me that tofu is at its best and most flavorful when it is marinated and deep fried rather than simply grilled. I still thought the dish was excellent, although I have to admit that the “spicy” glaze was hardly noticeable. The people at Horizons really know how to cook tofu; I wish I could achieve such beautiful grill marks and wonderful texture in my own backyard. The ponzu broccoli and edamame mashed potatoes were outstanding sides.

Upon finishing off the last of the tofu, I was amazingly stuffed—I had truly underestimated the substance of the meal. However, others at the table couldn’t resist trying some desserts. The dairy-free cheesecake was the standout; I don’t know how they did it, but it was one of the best pieces of cheesecake I’ve ever tasted. The Gastronomer shared the Chocolate Mousse with Macadamia Nut Cookie with my brother and sister. The cookie was tasty, but too crunchy; The Gastronomer still swears by Wes’s Famous Chocolate Chip Cookies. She thought the chocolate mousse was similar to a fine truffle, although she didn’t care much for the coconut coating.

The overall experience at Horizons exceeded my expectations: the menu offers uniform quality and a few true delicacies, and the presentation of the food is gorgeous. I would recommend Horizons to anyone looking for a delicious, reasonably priced fine dining experience, vegan or otherwise. My mom liked it so much that she purchased the Horizons cookbook on the spot.