Apr 2007

A Cook’s Tour: In Search of the Perfect Meal – Anthony Bourdain

About: A Cook’s Tour is the written record of Anthony Bourdain’s travels around the world in his search for the perfect meal. All too conscious of the state of his 44-year-old knees after a working life standing at restaurant stoves, but with the unlooked-for jackpot of Kitchen Confidential as collateral, Mr. Bourdain evidently concluded he needed a bit more wind under his wings.The idea of “perfect meal” in this context is to be taken to mean not necessarily the most upscale, chi-chi, three-star dining experience, but the ideal combination of food, atmosphere, and company. This would take in fishing villages in Vietnam, bars in Cambodia, and Tuareg camps in Morocco (roasted sheep’s testicle, as it happens); it would stretch to smoked fish and sauna in the frozen Russian countryside and the French Laundry in California’s Napa Valley. It would mean exquisitely refined kaiseki rituals in Japan after yakitori with drunken salarymen. Deep-fried Mars Bars in Glasgow and Gordon Ramsay in London. The still-beating heart of a cobra in Saigon. Drink. Danger. Guns. All with a TV crew in tow for the accompanying series–22 episodes of video gold, we are assured, featuring many don’t-try-this-at-home shots of the author in gastric distress or crawling into yet another storm drain at four in the morning.

You are unlikely to lay your hands on a more hectically, strenuously entertaining book for some time. Our hero eats and swashbuckles round the globe with perfect-pitch attitude and liberal use of judiciously placed profanities. Bourdain can write. His timing is great. He is very funny and is under no illusions whatsoever about himself or anyone else. But most of all, he is a chef who got himself out of his kitchen and found, all over the world, people who understand that eating well is the foundation of harmonious living. –Robin Davidson, Amazon.co.uk

My thoughts: The verdict is in—I don’t like Anthony Bourdain. Sure, he says some humorous things now and again about the Food Network, but I hate how he can’t go a chapter without referencing his penis or someone’s rack. How irrelevant and uncouth! He’s also a little racist (or maybe just brainless) because he titled his chapter on Nha Trang, a beach town in Vietnam, “Can Charlie Surf?” Are you kidding me?

What bothers me the most about Bourdain is that he fancies himself as a no nonsense chef with street credibility; the antithesis of Rachael Ray and company. When in reality he needs to embrace the sell-out within because he most definitely did sell-out. His continual biting of the hand that feeds him is lame. Own it Bourdain!

While my feelings for the man are lukewarm at best, the book was actually a decent read when Bourdain wasn’t being vulgar or offensive. His travels to Russia and Morocco were especially interesting because their cuisine is often overlooked and under-appreciated. He made borsch and cous cous sound like world class offerings. His dinner at the French Laundry was also a pleasure to read.

The book’s concept was interesting, but I would’ve enjoyed it a lot more if someone other than Bourdain wrote it. Say, Ruth Reichl?

Apr 2007

Tria – Philadelphia

April 24, 2007
Cuisine: Tapas, Eclectic & International

123 S 18th St, Philadelphia 19103
Btwn Stock Exchange Pl & Sansom St

Phone: 215-972-8742
Website: www.triacafe.com

Bruschetta: Brie with Balsamic-Blackberries and Tarragon ($4)

“Snack” I: Warm Poached Black Mission Figs with Gorgonzola and Prosciutto di Parma ($5 ½)

“Snack” II: Roasted Beets with Bulgarian Feta Cheese ($3 ½)

Dessert: Warm Blackberry and White Chocolate Bread Pudding with Citrus-Caramel and Blackberry Sauces ($6 ½)

In the mood for a light and interesting dinner after boozing at Rum Bar, my friend Anna and I headed over to Tria. I’ve walked by this eatery on several occasions and thought their menu looked enticing and especially liked how fractions are are used in place of decimals for prices. I appreciate the little things.

The menu at Tria features “snacks,” bruschetta, sandwiches, and salads. All food is priced under $10. I love small plate establishments because I’m able to pick and choose distinct flavor combinations that pique my interest, rather than committing to an entire entree where I may be indifferent to some components. I’ve been known to recreate this small plate freedom at regular restaurants by ordering two appetizers or several sides for my meal.

On this evening, all of our dishes were brought out at once (I think I’ll ask for a staggered delivery next time). We started with the Brie with Balsamic-Blackberries and Tarragon. The berries were wonderfully tart and the Brie was smooth and mild. Although I have had grapes and apples paired with cheese on many occasions, I have never had berries. The simplicity of each flavor came together nicely on the toasted baguette round.

Anna, me

My favorite plate of the evening was the Warm Poached Black Mission Figs with Gorgonzola and Prosciutto di Parma. The figs were tepid and oh so sweet; I love the texture of the fruit’s tiny seeds against my teeth. The salty Prosciutto and melted Gorgonzola paired well with the figs; each bite was intensely flavorful. Anna, who is not a fan of Gorgonzola, found the flavors too overwhelming.

The Roasted Beets with Bulgarian Feta Cheese was another simple, but winning dish. Anna and I found Bulgarian feta milder and less salty than its Greek counterpart. The beets were refreshing and calmed the cheese’s bite.

We finished off with Tria’s most popular dessert: a Warm Blackberry and White Chocolate Bread Pudding with Citrus-Caramel and Blackberry Sauces. The bread pudding was more cake-like than bread puddings I’ve had in the past and overall very tart, especially with the citrus and berry sauces. When it comes to desserts, my palate leans toward sickeningly sweet, so I was not blown away by this creation. I think the Banana, Caramel and Mascarpone Panino ($6) will be a good choice on my next visit.

Tria on Urbanspoon

Apr 2007

Ajia Japanese Fusion – Philadelphia

April 21, 2007
Cuisine: Japanese, Sushi

3131 Walnut St, Philadelphia 19104
Between 31st & 32nd Street

Phone: 215-222-2542
Website: none

Appetizer I: Salad with Ginger and Orange Dressing

Appetizer II: Miso Soup

Round I: Shrimp Tempura Roll, Inari, Tuna Nigiri, Tako Nigiri, Salmon Nigiri, Yellowtail Nigiri, Sweet Potato Roll, Philadelphia Roll, Spicy Salmon Roll

Round II: Tuna Roll, Salmon Roll, Spicy Crunchy Tuna, Spicy Crunchy Salmon

Round III: Shrimp Tempura Roll, Rock N Roll, Unagi Roll

Round VI: Unagi Roll, Spicy Crunchy Salmon Roll, Rock N Roll

Round V: Yellowtail Nigiri, Salmon Nigiri, Tuna Nigiri, Spicy Salmon Roll, Kani Nigiri, Inari, Tako Nigiri

Round VI: Philadelphia Roll, Shrimp Tempura Roll, Rock N Roll, East Roll

Round VII: Kani Nigiri, Shrimp Nigiri, Unagi Roll, Rock N Roll, Spicy Crunchy Salmon Roll

Round VIII: Unagi Nigiri, Salmon Nigiri, Tuna Nigiri, Mackerel Nigiri, Clam Nigiri, Yellowtail Nigiri

Round IX: Shrimp Tempura Roll, Tuna and Avocado Roll, East Roll

Round X: Inari

Round XI: Spicy Crunchy Tuna and Sweet Potato Roll

In honor of Paul’s 24th birthday, a posse of 12 gathered at Ajia for their delectable All U Can Eat sushi, which is reasonably priced at $21.95, plus tax and tip. The special also includes unlimited miso soup and salad. It was my second All U Can Eat affair of the week (Lacroix being the first), but I was ready to throw down once more because there’s always room for sushi.

The restaurant was packed on Saturday night and the service was extremely spotty because one waitress was working the entire room. This was my fourth time testing my stomach’s limits at Ajia, so I knew what to expect when it came to service. In my book, great sushi at a great price more than makes up for nonexistent service.

As usual, I passed on the soup and salad to save room for the good stuff. The Astronomer is a fan of the salad’s orange and ginger dressing. The miso soup is decent as well.

The variety of nigiri and rolls offered for the All U Can Eat special is impressive. Our group’s favorites were the Shrimp Tempura Roll, Spicy Crunchy Tuna and Salmon Roll, Unagi, salmon and tuna nigiri, and the Sweet Potato Roll. The Inari, Unagi nigiri, and Philadelphia Roll are three of my personal favorites.

The ratio of fish to rice is perfect and the fish is generally very fresh. However, the Mackerel seemed a bit off on this evening. All of the sushi is made to order, which takes a while with a large group.

After 3.5 hours and eleven rounds of sushi, we left thoroughly stuffed and satisfied.

For a complete menu, click below…

Ajia Japanese on Urbanspoon

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