Sep 2006

Hallelujah! The Welcome Table: A Lifetime of Memories with Recipes – Maya Angelou

About: Throughout Maya Angelou’s life, from her childhood in Stamps, Arkansas, to her world travels as a bestselling writer, good food has played a central role. Preparing and enjoying homemade meals provides a sense of purpose and calm, accomplishment and connection. Now in Hallelujah! The Welcome Table, Angelou shares memories pithy and poignant–and the recipes that helped to make them both indelible and irreplaceable.

Angelou tells us about the time she was expelled from school for being afraid to speak–and her mother baked a delicious maple cake to brighten her spirits. She gives us her recipe for short ribs along with a story about a job she had as a cook at a Creole restaurant (never mind that she didn’t know how to cook and had no idea what Creole food might entail). There was the time in London when she attended a wretched dinner party full of wretched people; but all wasn’t lost–she did experience her initial taste of a savory onion tart. She recounts her very first night in her new home in Sonoma, California, when she invited M. F. K. Fisher over for cassoulet, and the evening Deca Mitford roasted a chicken when she was beyond tipsy–and created Chicken Drunkard Style. And then there was the hearty brunch Angelou made for a homesick Southerner, a meal that earned her both a job offer and a prophetic compliment: “If you can write half as good as you can cook, you are going to be famous.”

Maya Angelou is renowned in her wide and generous circle of friends as a marvelous chef. Her kitchen is a social center. From fried meat pies, chicken livers, and beef Wellington to caramel cake, bread pudding, and chocolate éclairs, the one hundred-plus recipes included here are all tried and true, and come from Angelou’s heart and her home. Hallelujah! The Welcome Table is a stunning collaboration between the two things Angelou loves best: writing and cooking.

Sample of recipes: cornbread, potato salad, lemon meringue pie, minestrone soup, red rice, buttermilk biscuits, banana pudding. Good ol’ Southern comfort foods.

My thoughts: I found this cookbook to be fabulous for a number of reasons. Firstly, Maya Angelou is a fantastic storyteller. Her short vignettes are colorful and rich in personal history. I appreciated her candidness throughout the book. Secondly, her recipes are not complex and as a result require very few ingredients. As someone who is a minimalist in the kitchen, I can appreciate a short ingredients list. Lastly, Maya Angelou prepares very humble food; nothing extraordinarily ambitious like, say, a vegetable mousse terrine! Oh, and the pictures in the book are excellent as well. I look forward to trying many of her recipes, especially the chocolate éclairs and the tripe.

Sep 2006

Rosemary Brown Bread

 

pesto bread 10

9 bread 9

 

Here is a savory soda bread with the distinct flavor of rosemary.

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup whole-wheat flour
  • 1 3/4 teaspoons salt
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
  • 1 tablespoon dried rosemary
  • 1 1/2 cups buttermilk
  • 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
  • 2 tablespoons honey

In a large bowl whisk together the flours, the salt, the baking soda, the baking powder, and the rosemary. In a bowl whisk together the buttermilk, 3 tablespoons of the butter, and the honey, add the mixture to the flour mixture, and stir the dough until it is just combined. Turn the dough out into a buttered 9-inch ceramic or glass pie plate and with floured hands pat it into a 7-inch round loaf. Brush the top with 1 tablespoon of the remaining butter, cut an X 1/4 inch deep across the top, and bake the bread in the middle of a preheated 375°F. oven for 1 hour, or until it is golden and sounds hollow when the bottom is tapped. Transfer the bread to a rack, brush it with the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and let it cool on the rack for at least 4 hours before slicing.

Makes 1 loaf.

Adapted from Gourmet, October 1991

[For Printable Recipe Click Here]

Substitutions: I used only 100% whole wheat flour, brushed the dough with buttermilk rather than butter, and did not brush the finished bread with butter. Also, do not wait four hours to eat the bread. Consume immediately. It tastes best fresh out of the oven! Note – the original recipe calls for dill seeds, not rosemary.

Sep 2006

Pasta with Three Peas

2

  • 12 ounces orecchiette (little ear-shaped pasta)
  • 8 ounces bacon, chopped
  • 8 shallots, trimmed, quartered
  • 2 cups sugar snap peas (about 8 ounces)
  • 4 cups (4 1/2 ounces) pea tendrils
  • 1 cup frozen petite peas, thawed
  • 1/3 cup thinly sliced fresh mint
  • 1 cup shaved Parmesan cheese
  • Additional shaved Parmesan cheese

Cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to bite, stirring often. Drain, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid. Transfer to large bowl.

Meanwhile, sauté bacon in heavy large skillet over high heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels. Add shallots to skillet; sauté over medium-high heat until golden brown, pressing with spoon to separate layers, about 5 minutes. Add snap peas; stir until bright green and crisp-tender, about 1 minute. Add pea tendrils and petite peas, stirring just until tendrils wilt, about 1 minute. Add pea mixture, bacon, mint, and enough cooking liquid to moisten pasta. Stir in 1 cup cheese. Serve, passing additional cheese alongside.

Makes 4 servings.

Bon Appétit, April 2005


Substitutions: If you haven’t figured it out already, I like to take great recipes and tweak them to a healthier state. I used spiral-shaped whole wheat pasta in place of the “little ears,” used turkey bacon in place of the regular bacon, and used frozen chopped spinach in place of the pea tendrils out of convenience. Onions can also be used in place of the shallots if so desired.