Archive for the 'Birmingham' Category

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Flip Burger Boutique – Birmingham

Published by Gastronomer on January 9, 2010 in Birmingham, Burgers, Chain / Multiple Locations, Molecular Gastronomy and Restaurant Review. 15 Comments

Thanks to Chef Richard Blais, molecular gastronomy and fancy hamburgers, two of the restaurant world’s most exciting trends, can now be found down South. After the success of Blais’ original Flip Burger Boutique in Atlanta, a second location was opened in Birmingham late last year.

I initially found the idea of a burger “boutique” kind of laughable, but once I saw where it was located—within a mega suburban strip mall and next door to Juicy Couture and Gloss Premium Denim—it all made sense. Now, if this isn’t an agglomeration economy designed with the painfully hip and sassy in mind, I don’t know what is.

Chef Blais, who was the runner-up on season four of Top Chef, is trained in classic French cookery but likes to dabble in modern techniques as well. He has studied under culinary luminaries Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, Alice Waters, and Ferran Adria.

At Flip, the humble hamburger is transformed from a grease bomb into an edible work of art. “We only have two rules,” said Chef Blais in an interview with The Birmingham News. “One is that whatever we call a burger has to be ground. That doesn’t have to be beef. It can be another meat or it can be vegetable or it can be seafood. The other rule is it has to be served on a bun.” With chorizo, lamb, and crab sharing menu space with Wagyu beef, the restaurant fully lives up to its slogan “Fine Dining Between Two Buns.”

Designed by Atlanta-based architecture and design firm ai3, Flip’s dining room features communal seating and “padded cell” booths. The stylish layout and chic vibe reminded me of the Stephen Starr restaurants I used to frequent in Philadelphia.

The Astronomer, Rosalind (The Astronomer’s sister), Miho (The Astronomer’s high school friend), and I stopped in for lunch during Flip’s second week of operation. We were also joined briefly by Sara, a high school classmate of Rosalind, Miho, and The Astronomer, who is currently working in Flip’s kitchen.

Lunch began with a bevy of Flip’s famous liquid-nitrogen milkshakes. Our back-of-the-house homie Sara sweet talked the milkshake maker into sending over small samples of each of the flavors on offer in addition to the ones that we ordered. The ice cream used in the milkshakes was frozen using liquid nitrogen, which resulted in a texture that was ultra-thick and velvety. As a bonus, wispy plumes of smoke emanated from the cups, bringing a bit of drama to the table.

The pistachio and truffle milkshake was my favorite of the four flavors that we tried. The unmistakable essence of truffle permeated the entire glass. The Astronomer, Rosalind, and Miho all adored the super-sweet Krispy Krème milkshake, which contained actual bits of doughnut matter. The Nutella with burnt marshmallow milkshake was perfectly chocolaty and had an appealing layer of graham cracker crumbles at the bottom of the glass. The infamous foie gras milkshake was palatable but tasted more of nutty amaretto than rich liver; it also left a strange film on our tongues.

To balance out our milkshakes’ sweetness, we indulged in a variety of savory fried foods. The vodka battered onion rings with beer honey mustard ($3.50) were light and not the least bit greasy. The tempura fried okra with Sriracha ranch ($3) were expertly fried and had an ideal ratio of vegetable to batter. The fried B&B pickles with buttermilk ranch ($2) were sprinkled with fresh dill and had a great snap to ‘em. The tempura sweet potato fries with chocolate salt ($4) were straight-up fabulous. Sweet and salty pairings always win my heart.

Our party of four ordered three burgers to share. The Wild Turkey burger (left) with Benton’s bacon, wild turkey glaze, smoked mayo, raisin scallion relish, and micro greens ($6.50) came highly recommended by Sarah and was my favorite of the three. Once again, I was seduced by the sweetness of the relish, coupled with the salty savoriness of the bacon and turkey. The toasted brioche bun held onto the contents well.

The Astronomer chose the Butcher’s Cut burger with caramelized onion, blue cheese, and red wine jam ($7), which was the sole beef burger of the bunch. Cooked medium-well, the meat’s flavor was passable, but not exceptional. With the Butcher’s Cut, the focus was more on bells and whistles rather than the quality of the meat. Next time around, I’d like to try the Farm burger with organic, grass-fed beef to see how it compares.

Our final selection was the Burger of the Day, a tuna tartare burger ($10) made with sushi grade tuna, wasabi mayo, pine nuts, Asian pear, cucumber, and mango yolk. While not a menu mainstay, the tuna tartare burger was excellent nevertheless. We all appreciated its light and fresh flavors. The mango yolk provided a subtle sweetness and lots of intrigue.

After we finished our lunch and paid our tab, we gathered near the open kitchen to see Sara doing her thang. Make sure to say hi to her when you dine at Flip. She’s lovely.

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Flip Burger Boutique
220 Summit Boulevard, Suite 140
Birmingham, AL 35243
Phone: 205-968-2000

Waffle House – Anniston

Published by Gastronomer on January 6, 2010 in Birmingham, Breakfast / Brunch, Chain / Multiple Locations, Restaurant Review and Southern. 12 Comments

The Astronomer and I spent a lovely week down in Alabama during the recent holidays. Aside from baking twelve-layer cakes and sipping liquid nitrogen milkshakes, we also ventured east of Birmingham on an overnight bike trip with the entire family. Although we had planned to ride thirty miles along the Chief Ladiga Trail, twelve ended up being more than enough with temperatures barely in the forties. Before departing for home the following morning, we hit up Waffle House for a hearty Southern breakfast.

Waffle House has been a beloved icon of the South for the past 51 years. There are more than 1,500 locations in 25 states. Each branch of Waffle House is open 24 hours a day and 365 days a year.

Almost every one of Waffle House’s outlets is outfitted with a jukebox that plays 45 rpm singles. At this location, the entire first column of selections and much of the second had songs about Waffle House and its food. Amazing.

Waffle House fancies itself as a sit-down restaurant that is as fast and efficient as a drive-thru. According to the company’s website, “all food is prepared fresh, cooked to order, and served on real china in a kitchen that is out front and in full view.” The Astronomer tries not to watch the ladies behind the counter because their sanitary practices aren’t always pristine. I love how Waffle House refers to its plates as “real china.”

I ordered a single waffle with a side of bacon and was pleased with my selection. The waffle was expertly made—crisp, golden, slightly sweet, and moist where it counted. A canister filled with maple-flavored high-fructose corn syrup was available for drenching, but I preferred to eat it au naturale. Buttermilk waffles were also on offer, but according to The Astronomer’s mother and sister who ordered them, the regular ones were far superior.

The three thin strips of bacon that arrived alongside my waffle were fried to a flattened crisp. Each bite resulted in a snappy, porky shard.

The Astronomer ordered his standby—a double waffle, straight up. Small plastic containers of Pride “buttery” spread accompanied each one. Whereas the texture of my waffle was firm yet moist, The Astronomer’s was mostly limp. During The Astronomer’s past two visits to Waffle House, his waffles have been undercooked. It’s a shame that inconsistency plagues such a charming establishment.

To round out our breakfast of champions, The Astronomer and I shared a warm bowl of grits. Its creamy consistency, slightly coarse texture, and mild flavor was an ideal complement to my waffles and bacon. A pat of real butter would’ve made it even better.

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Waffle House
1530 Quintard Avenue
Anniston, AL 36201
Phone: 256-237-8961

Miss Myra's Pit Bar-B-Q – Birmingham

Published by Gastronomer on November 12, 2009 in BBQ, Birmingham, Restaurant Review and Southern. 10 Comments

Before departing home to Los Angeles, The Astronomer and I once again consulted the Barbecue Bible for noteworthy lunch options. “Miss Myra’s does many things well, but it’s the mayonnaise and vinegar-based white sauce that keep people talking,” touted the guide. The idea of a white barbecue sauce definitely piqued our interests, but it was Raymond Sokolov’s poetically penned piece, “Where Ribs are an Art Form,” for the Wall Street Journal that really convinced us that Miss Myra’s was a worthy last meal.

The protocol at Miss Myra’s was similar to other casual barbecue restaurants in Birmingham. The bill of fare was posted toward the front of the restaurant and orders were taken from behind the counter. Lunch was delivered upon plastic plates and trays soon after ordering. Miss Myra’s level of customer care was efficient but indifferent. After five visits to Alabama, I’m fairly convinced that Southern hospitality is a myth.

We tucked into an empty dining area adjacent to the restaurant’s main room. Even though The Astronomer and I were the only diners in the section, we didn’t feel alone with the likeness of Bear Bryant staring down at us from every angle. After amassing six national championships and thirteen conference championships for the University of Alabama, the man has become a legend in these here parts. Roll Tide.

Miss Myra also boasts an incredibly vibrant and varied collection of pig statuettes. Mr. Sokolov described it as “a veritable museum of swine art consisting of hundreds of effigies of the genus Sus in all its pink, piggy majesty” in his article. I told you the man was a poet.

The Astronomer ordered beef brisket with green beans and a bag ‘o chips; a steamy roll and limp pickle spear was included with every platter ($7.65). The beef was great on its own, but even better doused in Miss Myra’s peppery and tangy white sauce.

I ordered a pulled pork platter with green beans and deviled eggs ($7.65). The meat was served in small chunks rather than shreds, but I didn’t mind because it still provided a fine vehicle for saucing up. The white barbecue sauce was admittedly intriguing, but I favored the classic red one on my pulled pork.

Miss Myra’s green beans were prepared in typical Southern fashion, overcooked and mushy as can be. When I’m south of the Mason Dixon, it feels so right eating sickly-colored vegetables. The deviled eggs weren’t pretty, but they sure were tasty.

For dessert, The Astronomer dug into a slice of lemon cream pie ($2.75). The graham crust was superb, as was the tart and sweet filling.

I went for a slice of peanut butter cream pie topped with mini chocolate chips ($2.75). Cream pies go down especially easy after consuming heaps of savory meats. Even though the filling was light and airy, I couldn’t manage to finish my slice; into a box and onto the plane it went.

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Miss Myra’s Pit Bar-B-Q
3278 Cahaba Heights Rd
Cahaba Heights, AL 35243
Phone: 205-967-6004

Edgar's Old Style Bakery – Birmingham

Published by Gastronomer on November 10, 2009 in Bakery, Birmingham, Chain / Multiple Locations, Dessert, Restaurant Review and Southern. 10 Comments

Lately, I’ve been spoiling my appetite by consuming rich desserts moments before sitting down to dinner. I don’t mean to disrupt the natural order of things, it’s just that bakeries tend to close up early, and keeping my hands off freshly purchased sweets is nearly impossible. Gluttony and lack of self control seem to compromise my usual good sense.

The latest episode of appetite spoilage occurred while visiting Birmingham. The Astronomer and I were on our way to the Cajun Steamer for a family dinner when I spied a branch of Edgar’s Old Style Bakery a few doors down. Even though we were minutes away from breaking bread, I insisted that we step inside to quickly peruse the selection. After oohing over the goods, I unsurprisingly walked out of the shop with a red velvet cupcake in hand. The sensible move at that point would have been to save the sweet until after supper, but where’s the fun in that?

I’ve indulged in many red velvets in the past, but this was my first truly authentic Southern one. The dainty crimson cupcake was topped with a neat swirl of cream cheese frosting and dusted with cakey crumbles. The mildly flavored cake was moist, yet firm, while the well-portioned frosting teetered tastily between sweet and tangy. The size of the cupcake was also just right—we finished off the final bite right as we walked through the restaurant’s door.

Full disclosure: I ate another dessert after dinner at the Cajun Steamer, deep fried cheesecake to be exact.

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Edgar’s Old Style Bakery
180 West Main Street
Hoover, AL 35244
Phone: 205-987-0790

Highlands Bar & Grill – Birmingham

Published by Gastronomer on November 5, 2009 in Birmingham, Fine Dining, Restaurant Review and Southern. 8 Comments

Whenever I tell someone that I’m visiting Birmingham, I’m usually on the receiving end of a sympathetic smile and a less than enthusiastic, “Well, have fun down there.” Alabama’s bad reputation among liberal-leaning city dwellers is quite unfortunate because culinarily speaking, the state’s got it going on. In addition to finger-licking good barbecue, Alabama is home to hundreds of small farms growing spectacular produce year-round and an extraordinary chef named Frank Stitt.

Born and raised in Cullman, Alabama, Chef Stitt stumbled into the culinary world serendipitously while studying philosophy at Berkeley. He spent time in the kitchens of Jeremiah Tower and Alice Waters, and worked alongside famed food writers Richard Olney and Simca Beck, while living in The Bay in the 1970s. Following California, Chef Stitt traveled to Provence and Burgundy. He eventually returned home to Alabama and opened his first restaurant, Highlands Bar & Grill, in 1982

Chef Stitt’s culinary approach reflects his roots and training. On the menu at Highlands Bar & Grill, stone ground grits and country ham effortlessly mingle with red wine reductions and creamy beurre blancs. Chef Stitt masterfully reels in hearty Southern flavors with French technique and refinement. In 2001, Gourmet magazine ranked Highlands Bar & Grill #5 on their list of ‘The 50 Best American Restaurants.’

To celebrate the peak of muscadine season and our third visit to Highlands Bar & Grill, The Astronomer and I started dinner off with glasses of bubbly Prosecco enhanced with a splash of fresh muscadine juice ($9). The little corn muffins delivered to our table along with the drinks were just as good as I remembered. The secret to outstanding corn bread is the liberal employment of smoky bacon fat.

I was tempted to order my standby starter, the stone ground baked grits with country ham, mushrooms, thyme, and Parmesan ($10), but The Astronomer encouraged me to branch out and try the beef carpaccio with shaved Parmesan, arugula, and horseradish sauce ($11). The flavors were light, clean, and a little spicy with both the arugula and horseradish packing heat.

We also shared a succulent roasted quail, which was served with a cornbread stuffing containing apple-smoked bacon, muscadines, and Muddy Pond Sorghum, a natural sweetener ($13). We cleaned the meat off the quail’s tiny frame and enjoyed the drippings-soaked grits immensely.

For my entree, I ordered one of the evening’s appetizer specials—grilled and butter-poached lobster served with a scallop and a corn cake ($18). The local Floridian lobster wasn’t nearly as tender as its northeastern counterpart, but I appreciated the restaurant’s effort to keep the number of food miles in check. The scallop, on the other hand, was supple, well-seared, and seriously fantastic.

The Astronomer’s pan-roasted venison with Coosa Valley grits, pears, muscadines, and red wine ($29) was served just as he requested, medium-rare. The fruity accompaniments provided a lovely sweetness to balance out the meat-intensive plate.

Per our waiter’s suggestion, we also shared a bowl of Cullman County sweet potato soup with collard greens and apple-smoked bacon ($8). The chunky soup was good, but forgettable compared to our other offerings.

For dessert, we split a thick slice of sweet and salty cake ($8.50). Unlike the one-note wonder I ate a week earlier in Brooklyn, the salted caramel-soaked chocolate cake with whipped caramel ganache was distinctly sweet and salty. I should’ve known better than to doubt a Southern-made layer cake. To accompany our dessert, we were treated to two glasses of Sauternes Chateau Villefranche (2006). The wine paired so perfectly with the caked that I squealed a little. I need to indulge in post-dinner libations more often.

Throughout our dinner, Chef Stitt came into the dining room several times to meet and greet with longtime regulars. I think it’s quite cool that even after twenty-seven years in the business (and three other restaurants to tend to), he can still be found working the line on a weeknight. Now, that’s classy.

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Highlands Bar & Grill
2011 11th Avenue
Birmingham, AL 35205
Phone: 205-939-1400