Author Archive for Gastronomer

Kaya Toast

Kaya Toast | Coconut Jam

I cannot stand to throw away food. Whether it’s a half bunch of parsley or or a half-eaten slice of pizza, having perfectly good food tossed in the trash pains me in a very real way. I attribute this compulsion to my mother and grandmother, who forced me to eat every last grain of rice while growing up.

After making a warm coconut rice pudding the other week, I was left with a half can of coconut milk that seemed to stare at me every time I opened the fridge, threatening to go bad at any minute. I could’ve made a Thai curry or soup, but a few measly ounces was not enough, and I wanted to avoid opening up another can of worms, if you know what I mean.

After racking my brain and the Internet for ideas, I found the solution to my coconut milk predicament: Kaya Toast.

Kaya Toast is a popular snack in Singapore and Malaysia comprised of coconut jam sandwiches served with sunny eggs drizzled with soy sauce. I’ve eaten this fabulous sweet and savory creation at a number of restaurants including Susan Feniger’s Street, The Spice Table, and Jitlada, but never considered making it at home until I found this super-easy coconut jam recipe from my friend Sarah.

Sarah’s original recipe calls for a full can of coconut milk, but I scaled down the proportions using simple ratios. After the jam came together, I toasted up some buttered bread, spread on a thick layer of sweetness, and sandwiched everything up nicely. A fried egg with a dash of white pepper and a slick of soy sauce was all that was needed to complete the package.

When life gives you a half can of coconut milk, make Kaya Toast.

  • 13.5 ounces coconut milk
  • 1/2 cup Turbinado, granulated, or brown sugar
  • Butter
  • Good quality white bread
  • Eggs
  • White pepper
  • Soy sauce

Prepare coconut jam

Kaya Toast | Coconut Jam

Combine the coconut milk and sugar in a large saucepan. The jam will bubble and boil intensely as it cooks, so make sure to choose a vessel that is much larger than its contents.

Boil the mixture over medium to medium-high heat until the jam reduces by about half and coats the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes.

Kaya Toast | Coconut Jam

Transfer the jam to a bowl and set aside to cool. The jam will continue to thicken as it cools.

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Valentine’s Day Sweets For Your Sweetie: Le Bon Garçon, Cutie Pie That!, Magnolia Bakery

Le Bon Garcon Gourmet Caramels

I was sold on Valentine’s Day back in middle school when my crush* gifted me a heart-shaped box filled with chocolates between first and second period. No matter that the drugstore batch tasted like Halloween leftovers or that the “relationship” lasted barely a week—I was totally smitten and as far as I was concerned, Valentine’s Day ruled.

While the good ‘ol days of pastel-colored conversation hearts and flimsy perforated cards are over, I can still appreciate honoring February 14 with something sweet for my sweetie. Here are a trio of locally made desserts that will charm the pants off just about anyone. You’ll see…

Le Bon Garcon Gourmet Caramels

Justin Chao of Le Bon Garçon crafts the most brilliant caramels I have ever tasted. Every batch is made from scratch using the best ingredients and no preservatives, which results in a soft and silky caramel that is truly like no other. It’s quality you can really sink your teeth into.

Le Bon Garcon Gourmet Caramels

For Valentine’s Day, Le Bon Garçon has created a limited-run blood orange-infused caramel called Caramour, as well as beautiful packaging to go with it.

Other flavors available include classic salted caramel, passion fruit, and macadamia nut. Make sure to place your orders by February 7 in order to ensure delivery by Valentine’s Day.

Momofuku’s Spicy Brussels Sprouts with Mint

Momofuku Brussels Sprouts | Spicy Brussels Sprouts with a Vietnamese Twist

When The Astronomer challenged me to a Brussels sprouts throwdown this past weekend, I knew that these spicy sprouts with a Vietnamese kick from Chef David Chang would bring home a victory. Compared to my competitor’s lemon, honey, and thyme dressed specimens, these were bolder and brighter—an all around more daring addition to the dinner table.

While both of our recipes called for gently roasted sprouts, they headed in markedly different directions from there. These Momofuku-masterminded ones are coated in a fish sauce-based vinaigrette with plenty of garlic, lime juice, chilies, and minced herbs. The dressing reaches every caramelized crevice, wrapping its sweet, sour, spicy, and salty way around each green head.

The dish is more or less good to go once the sprouts meet the dressing, but because this is a David Chang recipe, there is a fun and whimsical addition in the form of a toasted rice cereal topping. Imbued with cayenne pepper, these crispy grains were airy and positively spicy.

After all was roasted, marinated, and tasted, I’m proud to say that my Brussels sprouts came out on top. Although The Astronomer tried to argue that the chief ingredient was lost somehow in the pungency of the fish sauce, he eventually succumbed to their irresistible flavors and waved a white flag. Lemon, honey, and thyme are perfectly palatable, but going up against the triple threat of chilies, fish sauce, and “Spice Krispies,” they didn’t stand a chance.

For Brussels sprouts

  • 4 cups Brussels sprouts (about 2 pounds), trimmed and halved lengthwise
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

For topping

  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup Rice Krispies or other puffed rice cereal
  • 1/4 teaspoon togarashi or cayenne pepper
  • Kosher salt

For vinaigrette

  • 1/4 cup Asian fish sauce
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
  • 1 small garlic clove, minced
  • 1 small red chile, minced
  • 1/4 cup chopped cilantro
  • 2 tablespoons chopped mint

Prepare Brussels sprouts

Momofuku Brussels Sprouts | Spicy Brussels Sprouts with a Vietnamese Twist

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Mix the Brussels sprouts in a bowl with the olive oil and salt. Pour them on a sheet pan and roast for 25 to 30 minutes, until crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. Shake the pan from time to time to brown the sprouts evenly.

Prepare topping

Momofuku Brussels Sprouts | Spicy Brussels Sprouts with a Vietnamese Twist

In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil until shimmering. Add the Rice Krispies and togarashi or cayenne pepper and cook over high heat, stirring, until browned, about 30 seconds. Season with salt. Remove from heat and set aside.

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Moqueca Brazilian Cuisine – Oxnard

Moqueca Brazilian Cuisine - Oxnard

Aside from eating apple fritters the size of a small island nation while visiting the Central Coast, The Astronomer and I also indulged in a seafood stew called moqueca from Moqueca Brazilian Cuisine. I would have never found this out-of-the-way restaurant if it weren’t for my friend Bill of Street Gourmet L.A. I mean, sleepy surfer towns and authentic Brazilian fare don’t exactly go hand in hand, you know?

Moqueca Brazilian Cuisine - Oxnard

To begin, The Astronomer ordered a bottle of Xingu beer. The dark and spicy Brazilian tipple fit his mood and palate perfectly.

Moqueca Brazilian Cuisine - Oxnard

I took Bill’s advice and ordered a caipirinha, Brazil’s national cocktail. It was made with cachaça (sugar cane rum), sugar, and lime—simple, refreshing, and strong.

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The Best Apple Fritter Ever at Diaz’s Bakery – Ojai

Apple Fritter Diaz Bakery - Ojai

Get thee to Diaz’s Bakery for freshly made apple fritters the next time you’re in Ojai. My friend Melina introduced me to this monstrosity a few weeks ago, and it’s been making regular appearances in my doughnut-flavored daydreams.

Apple Fritter Diaz Bakery - Ojai

Each Frisbee-sized fritter is coated from top to bottom in a classic sugary glaze. The innards are soft, simple, and dotted with cinnamon-sprinkled apples. The whole thing is truly spectacular, but the best bites are along the cratered edges, where the icing has turned the deep-fried nubs into candy. It’s the perimeter that disappears first on my fritter.

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