Jan 2026

The Best Dishes I Ate in Saigon

Best of Saigon Eats 2025

Last summer’s trip to Vietnam was nothing short of wonderful. Our two-week stay in the country began and ended in Saigon, with a six-day side trip to Quy Nhon in between. We’ve been meaning to return to Vietnam for the past 14 years, but it took Cousin Jimmy’s wedding to finally make it happen. Coincidentally, it was also the 50th anniversary of when my family left Vietnam following the war. The timing and occasion seemed poetic in some way.

Whether traveling domestically or internationally, I usually arrive with an ambitious spreadsheet of restaurants or specific dishes that I need to try. For Vietnam, I had two reservations at Michelin-starred spots, a short list of old haunts to revisit, and a few family commitments to attend. Otherwise, our calendar was free to wander and eat whatever looked good.

Following our nose and good sense did not lead us astray once. Here’s a rundown of the best dishes we ate in Saigon:

As much as Vietnam has advanced on all fronts, I love that the most efficient way to obtain the local currency remains exchanging crisp Benjamins at a local jewelry store. While in the heart of District 1 to change our dollars into dong, we stepped into a random noodle shop for a bite to eat; see IG stories for the geotag of all the locations mentioned in this post.

Even though we were smack dab in tourist central, the crowded dining room and bustling operation signaled that these porky noodles were going to be solid. The Astronomer and I shared a bowl with kidneys, livers, wide rice noodles, and broth served on the side, while June’s bowl had thin egg noodles, ground and sliced pork, and no green flecks in sight. Both bowls hit the spot.

(more…)
Dec 2025

Michelin-Starred Ăn Ăn – Ho Chi Minh City

An An - Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

My final stop on the Saigon Michelin star tour took me to chef Peter Cuong Franklin’s Ăn Ăn. Among the restaurant’s many accolades, Ăn Ăn (translated as “eat eat”) holds the title of being Vietnam’s first-ever Michelin-starred restaurant, which it earned in 2023. Located on the first floor of a quintessentially tall and narrow Saigon building — a result of historical tax policies based on street frontage and high land prices — the energy inside and out was palpable. Stuffy fine dining this was not.

Sep 2025

Michelin-Starred Ciel – Ho Chi Minh City

Ciel - Ho Chi Minh City

During my stint as an expat in Vietnam from 2007 to 2008, The Astronomer gifted me five “fancy” dinners for my 26th birthday. We were each earning $750 per month working for an NGO at the time, so this present felt like quite the splurge, even though the bill for the two of us was well under $100 in most cases.

Back then, the upscale dining scene in Saigon was largely composed of international restaurants. According to Gastronomy’s archives, my birthday dinners included a trio of old-school French restaurants (La Fourchette, Augustin, and Le Toit Gourmand) and a stop at the Italian restaurant inside the swanky Park Hyatt. My fifth dinner featured a modern Cambodian tasting menu in Siem Reap while visiting Angkor Wat.

Fast forward to 2025, and the Saigon fine dining scene is bursting at the seams. While there are still plenty of international dining options around, the rise of Cuisine Mới, or New Vietnamese cuisine, is an inspiring new development spearheaded by Vietnamese chefs bringing together contemporary techniques and trends with Vietnamese sensibilities.

Ciel from chef Viet Hong opened in 2024 in Thao Dien, an outer district popular among expats and accessible via the new metro system. The building that houses the restaurant — Scandinavian minimalism meets lush Saigon landscaping — was built from the ground up and reminded me some of the grounds of El Celler De Can Roca in Girona, Spain.

Before opening the restaurant, the chef staged at Noma in Copenhagen, Barcelona’s Disfrutar, and Sézanne in Tokyo. The influences from each of these stops in his culinary education are apparent throughout the 10-course progression.

(more…)