Feb 2025

The “Perfect” Chocolate Chip Cookie

New York Times Chocolate Chip Cookies

Republished from April 12, 2011

A few weeks ago, I received a review copy of Maida Heatter’s Cookies from the good folks at Andrew McMeel Publishing. The soft-covered tome contained an extensive collection of unique and homey recipes curated by Ms. Heatter, “the Julia Child of desserts.” Reading through hundreds of pages of delectable creations, I unsurprisingly developed an intense hankering for freshly baked chocolate chip cookies. I can be so very predictable sometimes.

Ironically, the cookie bible did not contain a single straightforward chocolate chip cookie recipe. I could’ve baked “Extra-Bittersweet Chocolate Chunk Monster Cookies” or “Key West Chocolate Treasures,” but I desired something simple and soulful, and no fancy substitute would do.

To cure my very specific cookie craving, I turned to an article published in the New York Times in 2008 about the quest for the “perfect” chocolate chip cookie. The promise of perfection motivated me to go through the trouble of procuring bread flour, bittersweet chocolate disks, and French sea salt. Not to mention, the dough needed to rest in the fridge for 36 hours. Though not technically difficult, it was easily the most high-maintenance cookie I’d ever attempted.

After everything was sifted, creamed, mixed, portioned and baked, I was left with a dozen and a half really amazing cookies. As promised, the exterior was golden and crisp, while the interior was slightly gooey and stratified with chocolate. The flakes of salt atop each cookie kept the sweetness in check and added depth of flavor. It was the most perfect chocolate chip cookie I’d ever eaten.

  • 2 cups minus 2 tablespoons (8 1/2 ounces) cake flour
  • 1 2/3 cups (8 1/2 ounces) bread flour
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt
  • 2 1/2 sticks (1 1/4 cups) unsalted butter
  • 1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) light brown sugar
  • 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (8 ounces) granulated sugar
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 teaspoons natural vanilla extract
  • 1 1/4 pounds bittersweet chocolate disks or fèves, at least 60 percent cacao content
  • Sea salt

New York Times Chocolate Chip Cookies

Sift flours, baking soda, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Set aside.

New York Times Chocolate Chip Cookies

Using a mixer fitted with paddle attachment, cream butter and sugars together until very light, about 5 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Reduce speed to low, add dry ingredients and mix until just combined, 5 to 10 seconds.

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Jan 2025

LA’s Hottest New Night Market Is At The San Gabriel Superstore

San Gabriel Superstore Night Market

As the sun sets over the San Gabriel Superstore complex, a slew of food purveyors and trucks set up shop along its perimeter down Valley and San Gabriel boulevards. The months-old Chinese night market happens daily at around 6 p.m. and has been slowly gathering steam each week attracting more vendors and attendees. I was alerted to this tremendous gastronomical gathering by SGV queen @kristiehang.

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Dec 2024

The Year in Delicious: Top 10 Bites of 2024

As I departed from Eater before our annual roundup, I tried to resist the urge to recount my favorite dishes of 2024. But looking back on Gastronomy’s archives, I see that it was futile to deny myself the opportunity to “taste life twice.” It’s baked into my DNA at this point.

Back in 2010, the golden age of food blogging, I highlighted the year’s best bites by sweet and savory. My yearend retrospective simplified starting in 2017 with singular dishes that made the biggest impression: 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, and 2023. Continuing this grand, self-satisfying tradition, here are 10 unranked, brain-bendingly delicious dishes from 2024.

Bo ne from Nep Cafe

Vietnamese bò né at Nep Cafe in Fountain Valley, California

Haitian patty from Alamod Caribbean Restaurant

Haitian salt cod patty at Alamod Caribbean Restaurant in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida

Cambodian beef noodle soup from Kim Sun Kitchen

Khmer beef stew at Kim Sun Kitchen in Long Beach California

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