Archive for the 'Recipe' Category

Kaya Toast

Published by Gastronomer on February 5, 2012 in Appetizer, Malaysian, Recipe, Sandwich and Singaporean. 10 Comments

I cannot stand to throw away food. Whether it’s a half bunch of parsley or or a half-eaten slice of pizza, having perfectly good food tossed in the trash pains me in a very real way. I attribute this compulsion to my mother and grandmother, who forced me to eat every last grain of rice while growing up.

After making a warm coconut rice pudding the other week, I was left with a half can of coconut milk that seemed to stare at me every time I opened the fridge, threatening to go bad at any minute. I could’ve made a Thai curry or soup, but a few measly ounces was not enough, and I wanted to avoid opening up another can of worms, if you know what I mean.

After racking my brain and the Internet for ideas, I found the solution to my coconut milk predicament: Kaya Toast.

Kaya Toast is a popular snack in Singapore and Malaysia comprised of coconut jam sandwiches served with sunny eggs drizzled with soy sauce. I’ve eaten this fabulous sweet and savory creation at a number of restaurants including Susan Feniger’s Street, The Spice Table, and Jitlada, but never considered making it at home until I found this super-easy coconut jam recipe from my friend Sarah.

Sarah’s original recipe calls for a full can of coconut milk, but I scaled down the proportions using simple ratios. After the jam came together, I toasted up some buttered bread, spread on a thick layer of sweetness, and sandwiched everything up nicely. A fried egg with a dash of white pepper and a slick of soy sauce was all that was needed to complete the package.

When life gives you a half can of coconut milk, make Kaya Toast.

13.5 ounces coconut milk
1/2 cup Turbinado, granulated, or brown sugar
Butter
Good quality white bread
Eggs
White pepper
Soy sauce

Prepare coconut jam

Combine the coconut milk and sugar in a large saucepan. The jam will bubble and boil intensely as it cooks, so make sure to choose a vessel that is much larger than its contents.

Boil the mixture over medium to medium-high heat until the jam reduces by about half and coats the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes.

Transfer the jam to a bowl and set aside to cool. The jam will continue to thicken as it cools.

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Momofuku’s Spicy Brussels Sprouts with Mint

Published by Gastronomer on February 1, 2012 in Recipe and Side Dish. 10 Comments

When The Astronomer challenged me to a Brussels sprouts throwdown this past weekend, I knew that these spicy sprouts with a Vietnamese kick from Chef David Chang would bring home a victory. Compared to my competitor’s lemon, honey, and thyme dressed specimens, these were bolder and brighter—an all around more daring addition to the dinner table.

While both of our recipes called for gently roasted sprouts, they headed in markedly different directions from there. These Momofuku-masterminded ones are coated in a fish sauce-based vinaigrette with plenty of garlic, lime juice, chilies, and minced herbs. The dressing reaches every caramelized crevice, wrapping its sweet, sour, spicy, and salty way around each green head.

The dish is more or less good to go once the sprouts meet the dressing, but because this is a David Chang recipe, there is a fun and whimsical addition in the form of a toasted rice cereal topping. Imbued with cayenne pepper, these crispy grains were airy and positively spicy.

After all was roasted, marinated, and tasted, I’m proud to say that my Brussels sprouts came out on top. Although The Astronomer tried to argue that the chief ingredient was lost somehow in the pungency of the fish sauce, he eventually succumbed to their irresistible flavors and waved a white flag. Lemon, honey, and thyme are perfectly palatable, but going up against the triple threat of chilies, fish sauce, and “Spice Krispies,” they didn’t stand a chance.

For Brussels sprouts

4 cups Brussels sprouts (about 2 pounds), trimmed and halved lengthwise
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

For topping

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 cup Rice Krispies or other puffed rice cereal
1/4 teaspoon togarashi or cayenne pepper
Kosher salt

For vinaigrette

1/4 cup Asian fish sauce
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 small garlic clove, minced
1 small red chile, minced
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons chopped mint

Prepare Brussels sprouts

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Mix the Brussels sprouts in a bowl with the olive oil and salt. Pour them on a sheet pan and roast for 25 to 30 minutes, until crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. Shake the pan from time to time to brown the sprouts evenly.

Prepare topping

In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil until shimmering. Add the Rice Krispies and togarashi or cayenne pepper and cook over high heat, stirring, until browned, about 30 seconds. Season with salt. Remove from heat and set aside.

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Meyer Lemon Muffins

Published by Gastronomer on January 20, 2012 in Bread, Cake + Cupcake and Recipe. 6 Comments

Winter citrus fruits are flourishing throughout Southern California, and for the first time ever, the season’s bounty is blooming right on our front porch. The Astronomer’s parents gifted us the most adorable dwarf Meyer lemon tree when they visited last spring, and after nurturing it through the summer and into fall, it finally bore fruit that we could pluck and enjoy this winter.

While I’ve tasted Meyer lemons in various dishes at restaurants, I never fully understood the complexity of their flavor until I actually cooked and baked with them. Not only is Meyer lemon juice sweeter, but it also has an indescribable and distinct tang that makes it wholly unique.

Our first harvest inspired The Astronomer to whip up a delectable shrimp puri puri. And several week later, I had to bake these Meyer lemon muffins after spotting the recipe in the Los Angeles Times.

Lemon-flavored muffin recipes usually call for just juice and zest, like these lemon ricotta muffins that I love, but this recipe calls for the whole shebang—juice, zest, pith, and all. The result is a truly moist muffin that’s studded with lemon pieces and laced with a slight bitterness. A sprinkling of cinnamon and sugar on the top of each one successfully mellows the lemon’s astringent notes.

It’s worthwhile to seek out Meyer lemons for this recipe because I find that their flavor, as compared to regular lemons, is different enough that something would be lost by substituting one for the other. Experiencing Meyer lemons in full effect is a must for all citrus lovers.

9 ounces all-purpose flour (2 cups)
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
3 Meyer lemons, divided
2 eggs
1 cup milk
1/2 cup butter, melted
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Combine the flour, 1 cup sugar, the baking soda and salt in a large mixing bowl. Set aside.

Cut two lemons into 1-inch pieces. Put them in a blender and pulse until the lemon is finely chopped. In a small bowl, lightly beat the eggs. Add the milk, butter and chopped lemon. Stir.

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Mighty-O Donuts – Seattle

Published by Gastronomer on January 9, 2012 in Breakfast / Brunch, Dessert, Doughnuts, Seattle and Vegan. 9 Comments

On our final morning in Seattle, The Astronomer and I hopped a bus to the quaint neighborhood of Wallingford to visit Mighty-O Donuts. While I’m usually dubious of fried dough with health claims attached to it, I’d heard such positive reviews of Mighty-O’s vegan offerings that I felt compelled to try them for myself.

I mean, if there’s one town in this world that could produce a delicious doughnut without chemicals, preservatives, hydrogenated oils, artificial colors and flavors, genetically modified organisms, or animal-derived ingredients, I would put my money on Seattle.

Mighty-O has been selling their unique brand of O’s in the Seattle area since the late 1990s and opened this store in 2003. The shop produces over a dozen different varieties of cake doughnuts each day with either a vanilla or chocolate dough and various toppings.

Oreos are a passion of mine, so I chose the “Cookies and Cream” doughnut ($1.85) with a vanilla base, sweet glaze, and crushed chocolate cookies.

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Bún Riêu Cua – Vietnamese Crab and Tomato Soup

Published by Gastronomer on January 4, 2012 in Bun Rieu, Family Recipe, Recipe, Soups + Stew, Vietnamese and Vietnamese. 9 Comments

I made my very first Vietnamese noodle soup (without grandma looking over my shoulder) on the eve before New Year’s eve. The Astronomer’s mother adores bún riêu, a northern specialty featuring thin rice noodles, a tangy broth, stewed tomatoes, and crab clusters, so I decided to prepare it for the Chaplin clan while visiting Birmingham.

Since this was a spur-of-the-moment idea, The Astronomer and I had to source all of the ingredients locally. Fortunately, a well-stocked Vietnamese grocery store nearby carried everything that we needed, from vermicelli noodles to fermented shrimp paste. Alabama, you surprise me all the time!

This recipe, which comes from my Aunt Tina, calls for canned “minced crab in spices” and employs a tamarind powder to achieve the soup’s characteristic sour notes. My dear Vietnamese-Canadian friend Nina prepares an interestingly similar version of the dish.

I imagine that these sort of semi-homemade recipes were developed within the Vietnamese community living outside Vietnam during a time when fresh crabs and tamarind weren’t readily accessible or were perhaps too pricy to afford. These recipes continue to persevere even with the availability of fresh ingredients because they’re not only convenient but are legitimately delicious.

I was so damn stoked with my first pot of bún riêu that I went ahead and made another vat yesterday at home in Pasadena. My resolution for 2012 is to stop being such a wuss when it comes to preparing Vietnamese foods at home. So far, so good.

For broth

1.5 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 bunch scallions, sliced lengthwise (white part only)
6 medium tomatoes, quartered, seeds removed
10 cups water, pork stock, or chicken stock
1.5 tablespoons fish sauce
1.5 teaspoons fine shrimp sauce (mam tom)
1.5 tablespoons tamarind soup mix

For rieu (crab mixture)

1 teaspoon vegetable oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 5.6 ounce cans “minced crab in spices” (gia vi nau bun rieu)
1 bunch scallions, chopped (green part only)
3.5 ounces dried shrimp
4 eggs, beaten

To serve

Vermicelli rice noodles, cooked according to instructions on package
Romaine or iceberg lettuce, shredded
Fine shrimp sauce (mam tom)
Lime wedges

An hour prior to preparing the soup, soak the dried shrimp in cold water. Drain the shrimp and set aside.

Begin broth

In a large stock pot over medium heat, add the oil along with the white parts of the scallions. Saute the scallions for 30 seconds, then add the tomatoes and saute for an additional 2 minutes or until the tomatoes begin to sweat.

Add the stock or water into the pot and turn the heat to medium-high. Season the broth with fish sauce, shrimp sauce, and tamarind soup mix. Adjust the seasonings based on whether you want it saltier (more fish sauce), sourer (more tamarind), or funkier (more shrimp sauce). Let the broth simmer on medium-low heat while preparing the crab mixture. Be careful not to let the broth boil or the tomatoes will turn to mush.

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