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Sampling Saigon’s Snack Shacks

Published by Gastronomer on October 15, 2007 in Bo Bia, Bo Vien / Ca Vien, Bot Chien, Che, Goi, Restaurant Review, Saigon, Small Plates, Vietnamese and Xoi. 8 Comments

The Saigon Times newspaper is giving me the opportunity to write for their Leisure section and I’ve decided that snack shacks are a worthy first topic. I am trying to find a tone different from my gas•tron•o•my voice, but am having some difficulty. Here’s my first shot at newspaper glory…

A cross between street food and sit-down eateries, snack shacks serve up light fare perfect for a small bite when the mood hits. Extremely popular among the local teen set, these restaurants appeal to families and couples as well.

Similar to the western “small plates” experience, diners can mix and match sweet and savory dishes to create a one-of-a-kind meal.

Menus vary from shack to shack, but mainstays include sticky rice, spring rolls, fresh salads, and Vietnamese desserts. These establishments offer enough variety to suit even the pickiest of eaters.

Prices range from 3,000-8,000 VND per dish, so don’t hesitate to order precariously and try something new because your wallet will not suffer.

Here is a quick run through of snack shack must-tries:

Ha Cao

A close relative of Chinese dim sum and Vietnamese banh bot lot, these gelatinous dumplings are filled with minced pork and topped with fresh basil and a soy-based sauce. The meat filling is nothing special and tends to be skimpy, but the dumpling’s texture is appealingly chewy.

Bot Chien

The literal translation of this dish is “fried dough,” but it resembles more of an omelet than a doughnut. Little bits of dough are fried to a crisp and eggs and scallions are added over them. The “omelet” is served beautifully golden and garnished with pickled carrots and radishes and a side of soy dipping sauce. The crunchy edges are a highlight.

Bo Bia

While goi cuon is the most well-known Vietnamese spring roll, bo bia deserves some of the spotlight. These delicate rolls wrapped in rice paper contain sweet Chinese sausage, dried shrimps, lettuce, eggs, and a sautéed jicama and carrot slaw. Dipped in a bit of hoisin sauce, the roll’s sweet and salty double punch is sure to move your taste buds.

Ca Vien Chien

Think of these as fish meatballs. Generally served with hoisin sauce on the side, ca vien chien is best shared with friends because the flavor can veer toward monotonous.

Che

The majority of the offerings at snack shacks fall under this category. A somewhat cloyingly sweet dessert, che usually contains beans (black, red, and mung), coconut milk, tapioca, plenty of sugar and shaved ice. Westerners unaccustomed to bean-based sweets may shun the fibrous texture of che, but it’s definitely worth sampling at least once. The best way to experience che is with a tall cup of che thap cam, which means “a little bit of everything.” A local favorite is che xung xa hot lua, containing coconut milk, mung beans, and pink water chestnuts.

Goi Du Du Bo

This shredded green papaya salad topped with basil, beef jerky, peanuts, and a light dressing puts Caesar salad to shame. The jerky is unexpectedly sweet and flavorful, while the papaya is fresh and light. Take into account that portions on this dish run small when ordering.

Xoi Man

It’s hard to find a bad plate of xoi man— sticky rice topped with various meats (cha lua, cha bong, and pate), fried shallots, soy sauce, pickled vegetables, and an oil and scallion mixture. This simple dish never fails to satisfy.

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In a town chock-full of food available at all hours of the day, it is not difficult to locate some grub when the munchies hit. The next time you’re hungry and hours away from mealtime, check out these snack shacks to suit your craving, whether it be sweet or savory:

Che My
91 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Bo Bia
2B Su Thien Chieu Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Che Ky Dong
153/7 Ky Dong Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Che 278
278 Khanh Hoi Street
District 4, Ho Chi Minh City

Quán Ăn Ngon – Ho Chi Minh City

Published by Gastronomer on August 20, 2007 in Banh Tam Bi, Banh Tom Ho Tay, Bo Bia, Chain / Multiple Locations, Rau Muong, Restaurant Review, Saigon, Video and Vietnamese. 4 Comments

August 17, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 088257179
Website: none

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Our colleague Mimi invited us to lunch last Friday and suggested we dine at Quán Ăn Ngon. According to numerous guidebooks and tourist websites, a trip to Saigon isn’t complete without eating here at least once. The restaurant serves spiffed-up of versions of traditional street food in a tropical space resembling a Hollister store. Quán Ăn Ngon’s chief diners are Pepto-Bismol popping tourists and Vietnamese residents with cash to burn. The restaurant opened in 2001 and is always packed during peak dining hours.

Word on the street is that the restaurant’s owner, a Viet Kieu (overseas Vietnamese), scoured the streets of Saigon and recruited the best cooks in town to prepare their dishes at Quán Ăn Ngon. Without a central kitchen, these “chefs” cook up their specialties along the perimeter of the eatery for the viewing pleasure of diners (see video below).

Similar to Vietnamese-American Restaurants, Quán Ăn Ngon’s menu is extensive. I felt like Barry Schwartz shopping for jeans at the Gap while trying to narrow down what to eat. I eventually settled on the bo bia (10,000 VND) and banh tam bi (20,000), while The Astronomer ordered com thit nuong (25,000 VND) and banh tom ho tay (20,000 VND). Mimi suggested we share a plate rau muong xao toi (22,000 VND) and I agreed.

The best thing I had at the restaurant was the rau muong xao toi, which is water spinach sautéed in garlic. Even though I had stinky breath for the rest of the day, it was totally worth it! The Astronomer agreed that the rau muong was awesome. The rest of my selections were ho hum. If cleaning up street food means taking away most of the flavor, then I’ll pass. The Astronomer liked his dishes, but didn’t think they were any tastier than what he’s eaten on the streets or in grimy establishments for half the price.

Eating Vietnamese food in a Hollister store is pretty cool, but we’ll stick to the streets next time.

Saigon Restaurant – San Diego

Published by Gastronomer on August 2, 2007 in Banh Tam Bi, Bo 7 Mon, Bo Bia, Bo La Lot, Chao, Restaurant Review, San Diego and Vietnamese. 0 Comments

July 20, 2007
Cuisine: Vietnamese

4455 El Cajon Blvd.
San Diego, CA 92115

Phone: 619-284-4215
Website: none

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Appetizer: Bò Bía – stir fried jimica and carrots, Chinese sausage, shredded scrambled eggs, all wrapped in a rice paper roll and dipped into a peanut sauce ($3.50)

Banh Tam Bi – rice noodles with shredded pork, vegetable, & coconut milk ($6.75)

Bò 7 Món – Seven Courses of Beef

Course I: Bo Nuong Vi – lemon grass and sesame marinated beef cooked on a hot plate with butter

Course II: Bò Nhúng Dấm / Beef Fondue – slices of Tenderloin fondue at your table in a simmering vinegar sauce

Course III: Bo Cha Dum – steamed Beef Meat Balls
Course IV: Bo La Nho – beef wrapped in grape leaves
Course V: Bo Moi Chai – grilled Beef Sausages
Course VI: Bo La Lot – beef Wrapped in Wild Betel Leaf

Course VII: Chao Bo / Beef Rice Soup – a rich flavorful beef rice soup

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During my last weekend in America, my brother and his main squeeze came to San Diego for a brief visit. On his first evening in America’s Finest City, he was aching for some beef—seven whole courses of it. My family usually goes to Anh Hong Pho Pasteur in Clairemont for bò 7 món, but Cousin Phil suggested we try Saigon Restaurant due to a favorable review from his dad. Unfortunately, his dad forgot to mention that service was terrible at this restaurant. I guess we’ll just have to stick with our old stand by Anh Hong from here on out for good eats and prompt service.

While my dining companions enjoyed bò 7 món ($16.99—for two), I decided to order bo bia and banh tam bi instead. Seven courses of beef is six courses too many for a vegetarian-leaning, sprout-loving gal like me. The bo bia, like most of the food at Saigon Restaurant, were huge; perhaps twice the size of average spring rolls. I’m usually against super-sizing, but I may make an exception for Vietnamese treats. The extra-fatty rolls were stuffed with an abundance of carrots and jicama. Sadly, the disproportionate amount of vegetables to protein over powered the Chinese sausage and scrambled egg.

For my main entrée, I wanted to try a new dish. My mom suggested banh tam bi. Banh tam bi is reminiscent of classic vermicelli noodle dishes (bun), but with an unexpected sweetness. The coconut milk sauce in combination with nouc mam is what makes this offering extra special. I really enjoyed this selection and will be on the look out for it in Vietnam.

Even though I don’t like all seven courses of beef, there are a few that I am awfully fond of. The bo la nho is nutty and delicious and the final soup brings back fond memories of nursing childhood colds with a bowl of hot porridge.