Can I tell you about the torrija, or Spanish French toast, served at Atelier Manna in Encinitas? Chef Andrew Bachelier’s standout dish starts with an entire third of a sourdough loaf, locally sourced from Prager Brothers, that’s steamed until pliable, saturated with sweetened custard, soaked overnight, and baked to order. The result is a study in complementary contrasts: a sturdy, caramelized crust gives way to tender insides sopping just-so. 

While the bread base remains consistent, its accoutrements change with the seasons. In mid-May, fresh strawberries, rhubarb, shortcake granola, and a long pepper chantilly were beautifully arranged atop the French toast. A classic case of almost being too pretty to eat. Almost.

Sized heartily enough to feed four and priced at $28, the torrija is nothing short of tremendous.