Sep 2013

Shanghainese Home Cooking at Lánxīn Cāntīng – Shanghai

Lánxīn Cāntīng - Shanghai

I secretly wished throughout our travels in China that some kindhearted, English-speaking local would invite The Astronomer and me to their home for dinner. There’s nothing quite like a home-cooked meal, especially while on the road, but alas (and unsurprisingly), my fantastic pipe dream never came true.

Instead, we sought out Lánxīn Cāntīng, a hole-in-the-wall located in the French Concession, for a more-accessible taste of Shanghainese home cooking.

Lánxīn Cāntīng - Shanghai

Family-run restaurants specializing in simple local fare have grown increasingly rare here in recent years, even though demand remains sizable. That, coupled with the diminutive size of the restaurant, meant that we endured an hour-long wait for a table this evening, far and away the longest line of the entire trip.

Lánxīn Cāntīng - Shanghai

As with most of the restaurants that we frequented in China, Lánxīn Cāntīng did not have an English-language menu. We resorted to pointing and smiling to communicate our preferences, as well as showing photos of specific dishes to our server. The former method was much more successful…

Nearly every table in the place was digging into platters heaped with the most gorgeous braised pork accented with green chilies, so we had to have some too. Served at room temperature, the bite-sized belly morsels melted in our mouths, treating our taste buds to a sweet and savory symphony.

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Sep 2013

Striking Street Food Gold: 10 Fabulous Finds on South Yunnan Road – Shanghai

Grilled Lamb Skewers - Shanghai, China

From its futuristic skyline to its stellar public transportation system and well-curated museums, there was so much to soak in and admire during our short stay in Shanghai. Above all else though, it was the city’s street-side cuisine that had me (and my taste buds) smitten.

While the street food culture here wasn’t as ubiquitous as what I had previously experienced in Vietnam and Thailand, mainly due to government regulations coupled with rapid economic and urban development, it was absolutely glorious where it still existed in its purest form.

Yunnan Road - Shanghai, China

We found the greatest concentration and variety of street eats on a stretch of South Yunnan Road between Renmin Road and Ninghai Road (map below), where there was always something incredible to dig into morning, noon, and night.

Uyghur Grilled Lamb Skewers

Yunan Road2

I can’t recall if it was the smoky aromas emanating down the street or the tremendous heap of bamboo skewers piled high at the foot of the stall that first drew us to this vendor. Marinated with a touch of cumin and a whole lotta chili powder, the Uyghur-style grilled lamb kebabs surprised us with their intense heat. Each one was threaded with alternating pieces of meat and fat, with delectable results.

Loaves of sturdy, Uyghur-style bread, which were grilled upon request, were on hand to round out our meal. There was always a sizable line here, especially when lunch time rolled around.

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