Gastronomy Blog by Cathy Chaplin

Now Closed

03 Dec 2012

Ganda Siamese Cuisine – Los Angeles (Hollywood)

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Heat lamps and steam tables don’t usually signal deliciousness, but expect the unexpected at Ganda Siamese Cuisine. Ever since Saveur magazine’s chief editor proclaimed the food served at this Thaitown spot to be “the most authentic Thai food in America” a few dozen issues back, I’ve been meaning to scope it out. Book research was just the nudge I needed to pass over my dependable darlings Ruen Pair and Pa-Ord and finally give Ganda a go.

Chef-owner Sue Klinmalai rotates the selection of curries, braises, and stir-fries available each day, but expect to find two dozen or so dishes that are carefully made and intensely flavored. The array of offerings can be a bit daunting for the uninitiated, so feel free to ask the gals behind the counter for further details since most of the dishes aren’t labeled.

For just under $20, The Astronomer and I were treated to one of the boldest, spiciest, and most deeply flavorful meals in town. We shared a three item combination served with steamed white rice.

The crispy catfish (pla duk pad ped) is the restaurant’s most popular dish, and for very good reason. This central-Thai specialty, dry-braised in galangal, Kaffir lime leaves, and a plethora of spices, delivered on all fronts—crisp, sweet, savory, and spicy.

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Now Closed

30 Nov 2012

Hoàn Kiếm – Los Angeles (Chinatown)

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Named after Hanoi’s misty and mystical “Sword Lake,” Hoàn Kiếm in Chinatown serves just three dishes on weekdays and four on weekends. While the kitchen’s repertoire might seem limited, the menu has actually doubled in size since the Ho family first opened the restaurant in 1989.

The proprietors, who hail from Halong Bay, a city more famous for its limestone karsts and isles than its cuisine, draw upon family recipes that have been passed down for several generations in executing each of their specialties.

Most popular here is the banh cuon, steamed crepes filled with seasoned ground pork and Woodear mushrooms. Its texture was chewier than the banh cuon I’ve sampled in Saigon, Hanoi, and Grandma’s house, which signaled more tapioca starch and less rice flour in the batter. While The Astronomer and I weren’t gaga about the texture, we were both pretty stoked to try a new rendition of a beloved dish.

The nuoc cham (fish sauce vinaigrette) served alongside, as well as the slices of pork loaf and fried shallots, were wholly familiar. A dab of chili sauce from the condiments made everything taste even better.

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Restaurant Review

28 Nov 2012

Restaurante El Meson De Los Laureanos – El Quelite

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The most charming destination on my recent trip to Sinaloa was the rural town of El Quelite located 25 miles northeast of Mazatlán. Named after the milkweed that grows throughout the area, the colonial village hasn’t changed too much over the years, aside from the fresh coat of paint that every home and business receives during the holidays. The heart of the town is Restaurante El Meson De Los Laureanos, where we enjoyed a spectacular breakfast spread of regional specialties.

The soul of the operation is Dr. Marcos Gabriel Osuna, also known as “El Padre del Turismo Rural en Sinaloa.” Dr. Osuna’s steadfast commitment to promoting rural tourism in the area has put El Quelite on the map and increased the economic vitality of inhabitants. It was incredible meeting Dr. Osuna toward the end of our meal and hearing about his passion for the region’s culture, traditions, and people.

Born and raised in the house that the restaurant is located in, Dr. Osuna has transformed and expanded the building room by room over the years into a wonderland of art and food.

Upon entering the restaurant, we were greeted by beautiful murals telling the history of the region painted by Jorge Larreta, a famous Sinaloan painter.

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