There’s been a lot of chatter about Joshua Skenes’ restaurant Angler. Critics have dissected, examined, and contextualized nearly every element of the restaurant — from its ambition to expand to its commitment to sustainability and its questionable location within an aging indoor mall. Overdue for some shine is the restaurant’s magnificent open-fire cooking and unexpected flavor combinations. That’s where I come in.

My friend Sarah and I came in for a weeknight dinner and were seated by the fish tanks. The room, filled with warm lighting and well-appointed furnishings, was more casual than anticipated in a welcome and comfortable way.

To sip, a pina colada made with mezcal, coconut, and amontillado. My dining companion enjoyed an Old Fashioned.