Dec 2019

Angler – Los Angeles

Angler - Los Angeles

There’s been a lot of chatter about Joshua Skenes’ restaurant Angler. Critics have dissected, examined, and contextualized nearly every element of the restaurant — from its ambition to expand to its commitment to sustainability and its questionable location within an aging indoor mall. Overdue for some shine is the restaurant’s magnificent open-fire cooking and unexpected flavor combinations. That’s where I come in.

Angler - Los Angeles

My friend Sarah and I came in for a weeknight dinner and were seated by the fish tanks. The room, filled with warm lighting and well-appointed furnishings, was more casual than anticipated in a welcome and comfortable way.

Angler - Los Angeles

To sip, a pina colada made with mezcal, coconut, and amontillado. My dining companion enjoyed an Old Fashioned.

Angler - Los Angeles

Dinner began with a bang, as caviar service arrived on a gold-plated cart. General manager Bryce Vaughan generously dolloped a full ounce of caviar ($69) atop warm banana pancakes slathered with banana butter.

Angler - Los Angeles

The banana’s ripened sweetness paired delightfully with the intrinsically salty caviar. The unexpected flavors, textures, and temperatures made this first bite one to remember.

Angler - Los Angeles

Also fantastically memorable was the radicchio with radicchio X.O. ($15). The alchemy to transform one of the bitterest leafy vegetables into something crave-worthy was extraordinarily impressive — sherry vinegar punched up the volume while crispy-fried shallots provided interest and crunch. 

Angler - Los Angeles

The antelope tartare ($18) arrived with lettuce cups for wrapping. As a beef tartare enthusiast, I appreciated this sustainable take that didn’t compromise on flavor one bit.

Angler - Los Angeles

The best way to eat live spot prawns ($18 each) is with abandon — carefully extracting the head from its body, slurping the cranial juices, gnashing each antenna, and licking fingers along the way. Angler’s addictively spicy marinade made for a messy and irresistible course.

Angler - Los Angeles

The grilled Parker House rolls served with cultured butter ($10) were perfect for soaking up the marinade.

Angler - Los Angeles

Keeping things spicy was the perfectly grilled striped sea bass ($32) slathered with a thick paste of chile crisps.

Angler - Los Angeles

Served alongside was Chinese eggplant “buried in the embers” ($9)…

Angler - Los Angeles

…and Angler potatoes served with cheese sauce ($13) — just look at the layers on those wedges!

Angler - Los Angeles

And finally, vanilla soft serve with gooey, drippy caramel sauce.

Dinner at Angler was truly phenomenal from start to finish. Every understated course over-delivered with impeccable execution and standout flavors. If this is the future of American seafood chains — bring it on.

Angler
8500 Beverly Boulevard, Suite 117
Los Angeles, CA 90048
Phone: 424-332-4082

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Six years ago: 
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Nine years ago: Bouchon Bakery – Las Vegas (The Venetian)
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