The last time I ate at Rustic Canyon was in 2011, when Chef Evan Funke was serving up drippy burgers on Monday nights. It wasn’t until I picked up a copy of On Vegetables at my local library that I was reminded of the restaurant recently.
After zipping through Chef Jeremy Fox’s thoughtful forward and skimming some of the recipes, I immediately made dinner reservations for two. I wanted to experience firsthand the cooking of an ambitious chef who had finally found peace and balance in a professional kitchen. I hear it’s a rarity…
The Astronomer and I secured a sitter and made the trek to Santa Monica on a Saturday night. We were greeted with warm smiles even though we managed to arrive 30 minutes late for our reservation. The Westside is always further than I think it is.
The first dish was a fun take on the classic wedge salad. In place of iceberg lettuce was an array of endive, while the ‘nduja breadcrumbs and egg bottarga roughly approximated bacon bits ($18). A blue cheese dressing, blue cheese crumbles, and pearls of pomegranate rounded out the plate.
The duck ham on rye ($19) with preserved kumquat and salted spruce, essentially an open-faced sandwich, was as thoughtful as it was delicious. The citrusy puddles delighted with each bite.
The pozole verde ($21), one of the restaurant’s most popular and long-running dishes, was brimming with local mussels (four or so, but who’s counting 😉), hominy, radish, and tortilla chips. Is there anything better than tortilla chips soggied with soup?
The monotone ricotta gnudi ($22) with white beech mushrooms and Neal’s Yard Coolea cheese was comforting but unmemorable compared to the other dishes on the table.
Stuffed with burrata and prettied with pomegranate seeds, hazelnuts, and sour honey, the stuffed Delicata squash ($18) made for a hearty main course. The edible skins were as delicious as our waiter promised.
For dessert, a most delightful Vahlrona chocolate pavlova ($13) with espresso, mascarpone, and hazelnuts…
… and an apple hand pie ($13) with whey caramel and almond frangipane. I trust anything sweet that comes out of Zoe Nathan’s kitchen.
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Rustic Canyon
1119 Wilshire Boulevard
Santa Monica, CA 90401
Phone: 310-393-7050
One year ago: Afternoon Tea at The Huntington – Pasadena
Two years ago: Slacker.
Three years ago: Slacker.
Four years ago: Lu’s Garden – San Gabriel
Five years ago: Sushi Kanesaka – Tokyo
Six years ago: {swoon} Pani Puri at Surati Farsan Mart
Seven years ago: White Truffle Dinner at Valentino Ristorante – Los Angeles (Santa Monica)
Eight years ago: Bouchon Bakery – Las Vegas (The Venetian)
Nine years ago: Good Girl Dinette – Los Angeles (Highland Park)
Ten years ago: Vegetation Profile: Royal Riviera Pears
Eleven years ago: Bánh Mì Cá Sardine
Twelve years ago: Brasserie Perrier – Philadelphia