May 2008

Vegetation Profile: Okra

Okra (American English: [ˈoʊkɹə], British English [ˈəʊkɹə], [ˈɒkɹə]), also known as lady’s finger, bhindi (Hindustani) and gumbo, is a flowering plant in the mallow family (along with such species as cotton and cocoa) valued for its edible green fruits. Its scientific name is Abelmoschus esculentus.

The species is an annual or perennial, growing to 2 m tall. The leaves are 10–20 cm long and broad, palmately lobed with 5–7 lobes. The flowers are 4–8 cm diameter, with five white to yellow petals, often with a red or purple spot at the base of each petal. The fruit is a capsule up to 18 cm long, containing numerous seeds.

The species apparently originated in the Ethiopian Highlands, though the manner of distribution from there is undocumented. The Egyptians and Moors of the 12th and 13th centuries used the Arab word for the plant, suggesting that it had come from the east. The plant may thus have been taken across the Red Sea or the Bab-el-Mandeb strait to the Arabian Peninsula, rather than north across the Sahara. One of the earliest accounts is by a Spanish Moor who visited Egypt in 1216, who described the plant under cultivation by the locals who ate the tender, young pods with meal.

From Arabia, the plant spread around the shores of the Mediterranean Sea and eastward. The lack of a word for okra in the ancient languages of India suggests that it arrived there in the Common Era. The plant was introduced to the Americas by ships plying the Atlantic slave trade by 1658, when its presence was recorded in Brazil. It was further documented in Suriname in 1686. Okra may have been introduced to the southeastern North America in the early 18th century and gradually spread. It was being grown as far north as Philadelphia by 1748, while Thomas Jefferson noted that it was well established in Virginia by 1781. It was commonplace throughout the southern United States by 1800 and the first mention of different cultivars was in 1806.

Until I moved to Saigon, I never knew that okra or đậu bắp made an appearance in Vietnamese cuisine. I always associated the vegetable with southern specialties like gumbo.

In Vietnam, đậu bắp is most commonly found in a soup called canh chua alongside pineapples, tomatoes, and upright elephant ears (bac ha). I’ve also encountered it sauteed and served as a side dish at restaurants specializing in broken rice and paired with raw meets at DIY grilling eateries.

In my experience with Vietnamese-American home cooking and restaurant fare, đậu bắp is pretty much non-existent. Is it just me or has đậu bắp lost its importance in Vietnamese food abroad?

May 2008

Bánh Lỗ Tai

Bánh lỗ tai or ear-shaped cookies are one of The Astronomer’s and my favorite Vietnamese snacks. Although they contain sesame seeds, their flavor is not purely sesame. They are a bit sweet, a smidgen salty and very addictive. Trust me. There are two types of bánh lỗ tai on the market—the thick variety and the thin kind. I’ve tasted both and there’s no question in my mind that the thick one is much tastier. Unlike chips and other cookie counterparts, bánh lỗ tai’s texture is hearty and satisfying.

I bought the batch above from the cookie dealer on wheels in District 4 who sells 100 grams for 7,000 VND. And just like everything else in Saigon, these cookies taste extra delicious after they’ve chilled in the fridge.

May 2008

Noodles with Squid and Vegetables

I don’t cook much in Saigon, but these gorgeous squid inspired me to get into the kitchen and whip up something fresh and delicious. During Tet, The Astronomer and I won some noodles at the Saigon Times New Year’s celebration and they’ve been sitting in the cupboard since then. Not wanting them to go to waste, I decided to make mi xao muc (pan-fried noodles with squid).

The ingredients included two good-sized squid, salt, pepper, scallions, two tomatoes, half a pineapple, okra, green beans, fish sauce and dried egg noodles. This dish was made to my taste, so I don’t have exact measurements.

And here’s the final product. I call this dish Traffic Stopping Squid Noodles due to the red, yellow and green color scheme. Cheesy, I know, but totally delicious too!