Apr 2008

La Fourchette – Ho Chi Minh City

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March 28, 2008
Cuisine: French

9 Ngo Duc Ke Street
District 1, Ho Chi Minh Ville

Phone: 8298143
Website: none

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Baguette (complimentary)

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Escargots de Bourgogne – Burgundy snails gratined with garlic, parsley, and butter (180,000 VND)

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Salade Nordique au Vinaigre Balsamique – salad with smoked salmon and mackerel with balsamic vinegar (95,000 VND)

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Tagliatelles au Saumon –Tagliatelle with smoked salmon and roe with fresh cream (120,000 VND)

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Filet de Boeuf – beef tenderloin with Roquefort and mustard (170,000 VND)

Four years ago, The Astronomer and I were “screwed.”

Screw Your Roommate is an annual tradition at our college where students arrange blind dates for their friends and roommates. At an intellectually stimulating and socially depressing institution like Swarthmore, it was the one occasion that merited showering and clean clothes for the bulk of the student body—and all for the slim chance of getting some tail.

My friend James was in charge of “screwing” me senior year and as a last resort, chose a freshman Astronomer as my date. The evening turned out to be not the least bit awkward and fun beyond belief. So fun in fact, that we’re still happily screwed four years later. Thanks, James!

The Astronomer and I headed to La Fourchette a few weeks back to honor the big 0-4. The celebration was not nearly as elaborate as last year’s at Lacroix in Philadelphia, but it was satisfactorily lovely.

La Fourchette is located in a small wood paneled space adorned with vintage European posters. The ambiance is warm and the service is very good by Saigon standards. Soon after we placed our orders, a basket of bread along with a slab of softened butter arrived. The baguette was cool to the touch, which was a letdown for two kids who love warm and toasty bread.

Always a sucker for smoked salmon, I chose the Salade Nordique au Vinaigre Balsamique to start. After receiving a pile of cold cuts at Augustin, I was a bit weary of my selection. Luckily, this time around the kitchen got it exactly right. My plate of lightly dressed field greens, cherry tomatoes and chopped basil topped with smoked salmon and mackerel was fresh, tart, smoky and light. I loved how the intensely salty smoked fish paired with the sharp balsamic.

The Astronomer’s Escargots de Bourgogne was brilliantly executed and on par with the ones he ate in France. Adorned with butter, breadcrumbs, garlic, and parsley, the snails were tender and exceptionally flavorful. The Astronomer happily sopped up all of the garlicky butter with bread.

For my main course, I went with a hunk of red meat. The Filet de Boeuf was decadently sauced up with Roquefort and served with white wine mustard on the side. Although it was prepared perfectly rare, the tenderloin was not as tender as I had hoped. However, the pungent cheese sauce was a luxurious treat. The meat was served with sautéed mixed vegetables that were slightly overcooked and too buttery and potatoes au gratin that melted in my mouth. It’s hard to go wrong with paper thin layers of potatoes coated in cream, eggs and butter.

I did not care much for The Astronomer’s Tagliatelles au Saumon because the sauce contained too much white wine and not enough smoky salmon goodness. The Astronomer was overall pleased with his selection, but disappointed that the salmon roe congealed to the point of being inedible due to the heat from the pasta.

The dessert list at La Fourchette is heavy on ice cream and light on interesting, so we jetted to Augustin for a Grand Marnier soufflé to finish off the evening.

Apr 2008

Bánh Khọt

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March 27, 2008
Cuisine: Vietnamese

59B Cao Thang Street
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: 8323312
Website: none

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Bánh khọt thập cẩm – miniature fried pancakes sampler platter (30,000 VND)

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Cơm gà rôti – rotisserie chicken with fried rice (35,000 VND)

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Gởi mục Thái Lan – Thailand-style squid salad (70,000 VND)

The Astronomer and I finally made our way to Co Ba Vung Tau the other week to try the bánh khọt Wandering Chopsticks raved about. Bánh khọt are a specialty of the southern coastal city of Vung Tau and taste quite a bit like banh xeo due to their similar batters and accouterments.

Co Ba Vung Tau offers four different varieties of bánh khọt—shrimp, pork, oyster and cha ca (fish loaf). Since this was our first time trying the dish, we hedged our bets and ordered a sampler platter that included a few of each kind. To round out our meal, I went for a squid salad, while The Astronomer went for some chicken with rice.

The bánh khọt were delivered along with a large basket of herbs and greens. After our waitress poured some nuoc mam from a giant pitcher (pictured above) into our individual bowls, we proceeded to eat the bánh khọt just as Graham of Noodlepie advised:

Take a leaf (lettuce or mustard) and sling in a couple of herbs and pickles along with the bánh khọt itself. Make a small parcel and dip into the plain nuoc mam. Depending on the size of your gob and/or how much of a fat bastard you are, each green parcel should take around three bites to fully consume. It’s green ‘n’ lean and airyfairy enough that one diner could stuff in all eight cakes with ease.

Bánh khọt are simultaneously “airyfairy” and crispy. The Astronomer and I each ate four and could have easily downed twice as many if we hadn’t ordered the other dishes. We both liked the oyster bánh khọt best because of its intense flavor. Unlike the shrimp, pork and fish cake bánh khọt, the oyster variety could hold up against the nuoc mam and shrubbery. The texture of bánh khọt is really something special.

Although we came for the bánh khọt, the dish that really stood out was the squid salad. The pieces of squid were plentiful, fresh as can be and unbelievably tender. Ever since we indulged in the finest squid in the world during our trip to Phu Quoc last November, we’ve become quite the squid snobs. The squid salad at Co Ba Vung Tau magically transported us back to the sunny shores of Phu Quoc.

The Astronomer’s rotisserie chicken with rice was also well-executed. The buttery fried rice contained bits of scallions and eggs and tasted indulgent compared to the plain jasmine The Astronomer has grown accustomed to. The chicken was moist, crispy skinned and dressed in a five-spice marinade.

Apr 2008

Vegetation Profile: Gac Fruit

small gac

Momordica cochinchinensis (Lour.) Spreng., commonly known as gac (IPA: /ˈgæk/, from Vietnamese: gấc, or quả gấc [quả meaning “fruit”]; in Chinese: 木鳖果), is a Southeast Asian fruit found throughout the region from Southern China to Northeastern Australia. It is also known as Baby Jackfruit, Spiny Bitter Gourd, Sweet Gourd, or Cochinchin Gourd. It has been traditionally used as both food and medicine in the regions in which it grows.

Because it has a relatively short harvest season (which peaks in December and January), making it less abundant than other foods, gac is typically served at ceremonial or festive occasions in Vietnam, such as Tết (the Vietnamese new year) and weddings. It is most commonly prepared as a dish called xôi gấc, in which the aril and seeds of the fruit are cooked in glutinous rice, imparting both their color and flavor.

Other than the use of its fruit and leaves for special Vietnamese culinary dishes, gac is also used for its medicinal and nutritional properties. In Vietnam, the seed membranes are used to aid in the relief of dry eyes, as well as to promote healthy vision. Similarly, in Traditional Chinese medicine the seeds of gac, known as mubiezi (Chinese: 木鳖子), are employed for a variety of internal and external purposes.

While I can’t vouch for the medicinal prowess of gac fruit, I can attest for its brilliant dying properties, especially in the form of Xôi Gấc. I’m a little afraid of staining my fingers and clothes, but  one of these days I must purchase a gac fruit to taste in its purist form.

With the exception of xoi, I have very little experience with guc fruit. Dear readers, how do YOU (or your mama and grandma) eat and use guc fruit? I am very curious…