Feb 2008

Sizzlin' Crêpes

January 26, 2008
Cuisine: Vietnamese

607 Nguyen Kiem Street * CLOSED *
Phu Nhuan District, Ho Chi Minh City

Phone: none
Website: none

Banh Xeo (25,000 VND for 10)

Bo La Lot (28,000 VND)

“Look for the flames on the left-hand-side of the road,” instructed Zach.

With such spot-on instructions, The Astronomer and I easily located this banh xeo and bo la lot joint in an unfamiliar part of town.

Phu Nhuan District is a good 30 minute ride from District 4, but one bite of their banh xeo, and the long trip is completely worth it.

Unlike the giant, paper-thin, slightly soggy, ton-o-bean sprouts banh xeo served up at 46A and Long Huy, the ones in Phu Nuan are more like those I ate in Da Nang.

The banh xeo are made in front of the restaurant in small griddles over large flames. The smoky environs lend a welcomed char to the saffron beauties.

Measuring four inches in diameter, these banh xeo are wonderfully crispy and filled with grilled pork pieces similar to thit nuong, a few bean sprouts, and a smattering of whole mung beans.

Wrapped up in mustard leaves and dipped in nuoc mam, these banh xeo were so so good. Without the help of Zach’s ESL students, we would have never found this place.

The Astronomer and Zach are both very fond of bo la lot—grilled seasoned beef wrapped in betel leaves. The ones made here are grilled out front next to the banh xeo and have a nice ratio of meat to leaves.

Whereas I like to eat bo la lot without adornments, the boys take the time to wrap theirs in lettuce, herbs, and rice paper and dip them in nuoc mam. Either way, they’re a great complement to the banh xeo.

Jan 2008

My Life in France – Julia Child

About: With Julia Child’s death in 2004 at age 91, her grandnephew Prud’homme (The Cell Game) completed this playful memoir of the famous chef’s first, formative sojourn in France with her new husband, Paul Child, in 1949. The couple met during WWII in Ceylon, working for the OSS, and soon after moved to Paris, where Paul worked for the U.S. Information Service. Child describes herself as a “rather loud and unserious Californian,” 36, six-foot-two and without a word of French, while Paul was 10 years older, an urbane, well-traveled Bostonian. Startled to find the French amenable and the food delicious, Child enrolled at the Cordon Bleu and toiled with increasing zeal under the rigorous tutelage of éminence grise Chef Bugnard. “Jackdaw Julie,” as Paul called her, collected every manner of culinary tool and perfected the recipes in her little kitchen on rue de l’Université (“Roo de Loo”). She went on to start an informal school with sister gourmandes Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle, who were already at work on a French cookbook for American readers, although it took Child’s know-how to transform the tome—after nine years, many title changes and three publishers—into the bestselling Mastering the Art of French Cooking (1961). This is a valuable record of gorgeous meals in bygone Parisian restaurants, and the secret arts of a culinary genius – Publishers Weekly

My thoughts: Other than recognizing her name, I knew little else about Julia Child before delving into My Life in France, which was a Christmas gift from The Astronomer’s mother Jane. Prior to moving to Saigon, I was obsessed with books about food—systems, memoirs, cookbooks, etc., but have been deprived of delicious writing as of late. This book rekindled my love for the genre and piqued my interest in France and its cuisine.

I took away a couple of things from My Life in France. First, writing a comprehensive cookbook on French cuisine is incredibly difficult. I can’t believe she tested recipes 50+ times! Second, life can be fulfilling without having kids. Third, living abroad/total cultural immersion is a beautiful thing. Fourth, it’s never too late to find a true calling or passion. Fifth, make time for those you love and travel to see them often. Sixth, copper bowls are superior for whipping cream.

Jan 2008

Chè Nhãn

It’s gettin’ hot in HCMC.

The dry-season is in full swing and the days of motorbiking in the rain while donning ponchos is now a distant memory.

Unlike The Astronomer, I love the heat. It’s probably the result of my Saigon genes and SoCal upbringing. And even though it’s already suitably warm right now, according to my mom, after Tet is when the temperatures really soar.

The Astronomer is going to melt.

To stay cool and hydrated in times like these, the Vietnamese turn to chilled young coconuts and dessert-y drinks like chè nhãn.

Chè nhãn is made from nhãn (dried longans), sương sa (agar jelly) and served in a tall glass over ice.

Although not the prettiest chè on the block—that award goes to sương sa hột lựu—it certainly has its merits. Chè nhãn‘s cool liquid tastes like a soda-less cream soda with hints of vanilla, while the sương sa‘s playfully crinkly texture reminds one to take it easy or risk a stroke.

Chè nhãn can be purchased from most chè vendors. The glass above cost 2,000 VND from a chè lady on Ton That Thuyet Street in District 4.